[Rutkowski]

@TrackClub, did u go for dtc 60 or also back to stock?

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Rutkowski

@TrackClub, did u go for dtc 60 or also back to stock?

I have a set but have put stockers back on for the start of my season and because i tend to daily drive it more. I really like them personally incl the fact they dont throw tons of heat yet permit fast enought laps (for me).

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

I have a set but have put stockers back on for the start of my season and because i tend to daily drive it more. I really like them personally incl the fact they dont throw tons of heat yet permit fast enought laps (for me).

Agree with this - I have a set of 60's as well that i snagged on ebay when the 15% off coupon popped up however i really really liked the stockers on my first day out with the camaro. No fade or mushy pedal at all with SRF and stock pads. Kind of nervous to try them when the stocks are so good.

[Rutkowski]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

I really like them personally incl the fact they dont throw tons of heat yet permit fast enought laps (for me).

Originally Posted by Move_Over

Agree with this - No fade or mushy pedal at all with SRF and stock pads. Kind of nervous to try them when the stocks are so good.

Same experience here. I don’t see a huge difference in stopping performance either, which would justify harming the discs like this. Also in terms of pedal feel I was super happy with stockers, very responsive and easy to break into curves. Both tires and pads are actually really good the way the car is originally set up, so why force it. Thanks for sharing your feedback guys, changing back today

[Move_Over]

I'll be trying out DTC60's at sebring this weekend. I'll let you all know how i like them VS stock pads.

[AZ_1LE]

Was at Inde Motorsports Ranch over the weekend and used my G-Loc 10's and 8's again, they were fantastic. 0 brake fade, totally predictable, barely wore at all, I have no reason to use anything else. Just wish they didn't squeal like a school bus on the street so that I could use them all the time

[BigShow1960]

I'm still a relative Track Novice, maybe 8 two-day events. I plan to stick with the OEM pads for now. A request or recommendation, can a couple of additions be made to the first post?
1) Add the OEM pad part numbers (f) 25940447 and (r) 22847818
2) Add some pad thickness guides
2.a) Original thickness 9.8 mm OEM
2.b) Time to replace thickness prior to 1/2 day track event
2.c) Other wear observations leading to replacement
3) Rotor thickness
3.a) Original thickness
3.b) Time to replace thickness prior to a 1/2 day track event
3.c) Other wear observations leading to replacement

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by BigShow1960

I'm still a relative Track Novice, maybe 8 two-day events. I plan to stick with the OEM pads for now. A request or recommendation, can a couple of additions be made to the first post?
1) Add the OEM pad part numbers (f) 25940447 and (r) 22847818
2) Add some pad thickness guides
2.a) Original thickness 9.8 mm OEM
2.b) Time to replace thickness prior to 1/2 day track event
2.c) Other wear observations leading to replacement
3) Rotor thickness
3.a) Original thickness
3.b) Time to replace thickness prior to a 1/2 day track event
3.c) Other wear observations leading to replacement

Most HPDE events/schools require that pads have 50+% of their thickness left before an event. I'd say it is a good rule. But, it also depends on a specific track, as some are much harder on brakes overall. So it does depend. If a pad is worn to the divots, or in any way tapered, it is time to replace them.

As far as rotors, it is not the thickness, but cracks that decide when to replace them. With track usage heat checks, or micro cracks will appear on rotors. That's perfectly fine. Things to watch for are:
Cracks which get wider, or start running towards the outside of a rotor (which could split it). If i see a bigger crack i run my finger across it and see if it catches, which would suggest a deeper separation and perhaps time to replace the rotor. I also watch for any cracks that joined together and created a longer crack. It is a judgement call, but if a longish crack is heading to the outside of a rotor, then it could split. Fyi oem rotors are rather beefy and should easily last 15+ days of hard 4x30min sessions each day. Hope this helps. Cheers!

PS I only ever split one rotor and it was rather cheap, on my C5Z. I did see a crack running towards outside and i knew it would soon go. Indeed when i came back from a session - it was split right across. Even tho the rotor was split, it still stayed in one piece.

[BigShow1960]

Thanks TrackClub

[nasbagoat]

Rear OE brake pads are only 2 backing plates thick so at 1 backing plate thickness you are still at 50% of material.

[pkincy]

Great thread folks, thanks. If you like the OE pads don't forget to troll your local Corvette forum and ATS-V forum. The C7Z and the ATS-V use the 1405/1718 pad combination. And those that do not track their cars typically will take off the OEM pads to avoid dusting very soon after purchase. I removed the Z06 pads at about 1800 miles and the ATS-V pads at 1900 miles to replace with Carbon Ceramic non dusting pads. I posted the Z06 takeoffs for giveaway several times on CorvetteForum with no takers. I removed my 18 ATS-V pads this week and found a track rat that liked the OEM pads and gave him both sets of takeoffs.

[Nabush]

Which rear pad would you recommend with Carbotech XP8 in front ?

On my C7 GS I have XP12 Front X10 rear and it works really really well, but it is very noisy, and the 1LE is my daily (though I use it on a regular basis to its full potential on the mountains road near me)...

When I had my 1LE with stock pads on front I was able to feel brake fade on mountain roads .... (+ pads deposits on the disk, causing vibrations).

To clean the rotor and get rid of the fade, I bought XP8 for the front...It's better as far as fading resistance, but with stock rear pads it seems to me the braking balance is screwed...My front wheels lock very easy, and on spirited mountain driving I got a lot of ABS intervention and it seems my braking distances are longer...

I know that rear pads don't get near as hot as the front, but to recover braking balance should I put XP8 rear or try their AX6 (I'm afraid AX6 will have more bite at low temps and also having balance issues)?

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Nabush

Which rear pad would you recommend with Carbotech XP8 in front ?

On my C7 GS I have XP12 Front X10 rear and it works really really well, but it is very noisy, and the 1LE is my daily (though I use it on a regular basis to its full potential on the mountains road near me)...

When I had my 1LE with stock pads on front I was able to feel brake fade on mountain roads .... (+ pads deposits on the disk, causing vibrations).

To clean the rotor and get rid of the fade, I bought XP8 for the front...It's better as far as fading resistance, but with stock rear pads it seems to me the braking balance is screwed...My front wheels lock very easy, and on spirited mountain driving I got a lot of ABS intervention and it seems my braking distances are longer...

I know that rear pads don't get near as hot as the front, but to recover braking balance should I put XP8 rear or try their AX6 (I'm afraid AX6 will have more bite at low temps and also having balance issues)?

Firstly: there is no need to stagger brake pads torque wise on 1le as the system is designed for the same pads front and rear. No matter what pads you choose to run.

Secondly: if you felt any type of fade with oem Ferodo pads it is NOT the pads. It could be your fluid or perhaps pads havent been bedded in correctly. I run stockers on a variety of tracks in top groups (instructor/solo) up to 45min stints with zero fade.

Lastly: xp8s on the front are way too soft for the weight of the car. Xp10 is minimum imo but frankly it doesnt offer any improvement performance wise over a stock oem Ferodo as their characteristics are very similar. If for some reason you prefer Carbotechs over stock Ferodos then run xp10 front AND rear for proper braking bias.

Hope this helps. Cheers!

[Nabush]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Firstly: there is no need to stagger brake pads torque wise on 1le as the system is designed for the same pads front and rear. No matter what pads you choose to run.

Secondly: if you felt any type of fade with oem Ferodo pads it is NOT the pads. It could be your fluid or perhaps pads havent been bedded in correctly. I run stockers on a variety of tracks in top groups (instructor/solo) up to 45min stints with zero fade.

Lastly: xp8s on the front are way too soft for the weight of the car. Xp10 is minimum imo but frankly it doesnt offer any improvement performance wise over a stock oem Ferodo as their characteristics are very similar. If for some reason you prefer Carbotechs over stock Ferodos then run xp10 front AND rear for proper braking bias.

Hope this helps. Cheers!

No fluid issues as the brake pedal stayed firm and consistent.

I don't know if stockers were bed in properly as I bought the car used at 10,000 miles... But I had the same issue as with my C7 GS with stock pads : vibrations due to pad deposits on the rotors.... it doesn't do that with the Carbotechs...But I did the bedding myself until I had no brakes....though to be honest I'm pretty disapointed with XP8 compared to my XP12/10 on the vette...(which is also lighter and has bigger rotors on the rear), they have way less bite, and lose grunt when really hot...

I have 10 miles plus hillclimbs near my home and load on the brakes is harder than on a roadcourse, because it is a lot of hard braking very close to each other, with very little time to cool down, and steep grades...

Should have bought XP12 like the vette, even for a daily, but was under this impression XP8 were superior to OEM anyway....