04-02-2018, 10:52 AM | #1 |
Drives: 22 ZLE 6MT Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: NY
Posts: 101
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P0325 after Mighty Mouse Wild install
Ok so I finally installed this Mighty Mouse wild kit and went out for a spirited drive. Engine light came on and when I checked for codes I got a P0325. Mods are catless LT’s, 10% lower pulley and tune. Anyone have similar issues?
This is how I have mine routed. |
04-02-2018, 12:11 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2017 ZL1 A10 Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 394
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That's a knock sensor code. First thing to check is all wiring harness plugs. Ensure they're properly connected.
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04-02-2018, 12:20 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2017 NFG ZL1 M6 Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: San Diego,CA
Posts: 38
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Did you fill up recently? Had similar issue after some bad gas. Cleared the code and it hasn’t returned
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04-02-2018, 12:32 PM | #4 |
Drives: 18 Silverado 1500 Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Bradenton, FL
Posts: 1,721
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Hope it wasn't real KR, even with "bad" gas. Enough real KR to set off a code scares me personally. On our old Buick, sometimes a rattle from a loose component or exhaust leak would set off our sensor, but that may have nothing to do with these new cars and sensors. Just throwing that out there and I'll let the real tuners give better advice on whether or not it's possible.
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04-02-2018, 06:29 PM | #5 |
Drives: ZL1/335i Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Santa Barbara
Posts: 870
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I had the same code on my car, but for bank 2 (p0330). P0325 and 330 are electrical type codes, and I don’t believe will be set by excessive KR. It’s something that a poor connection, damaged wires, or a bad knock sensor could trigger though.
On my car, I ended up replacing the knock sensor. It was something stupid like $10. Kind of tight to get to, but not too bad compared to the German cars I work on for a living. At first I was worried some of the wiring got melted by the headers, but everything checked out fine. I replaced the sensor and it hasn’t come back. I also wrapped the wires in some heat wrap, but I don’t think that was an issue as the bank 2 sensor is behind the starter heat shield. That said, the bank 1 knock sensor wiring could be touching your header. Mine was, and I’m usually super thorough when I do my installs. Thankfully, that wiring is wrapped in some silver heat wrap, but I could see it being an issue long term. I just adjusted where it was sitting to create some space. I’d definitely check this on your car. |
04-02-2018, 10:20 PM | #6 | |
Drives: 22 ZLE 6MT Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: NY
Posts: 101
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Quote:
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04-03-2018, 09:26 PM | #7 |
Drives: ZL1/335i Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Santa Barbara
Posts: 870
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Same basic location I believe. It might be hidden by a cover or heat shield. At least that’s what I remember. The wiring going to it is covered in that aluminum foil looking material, and was touching my header.
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04-03-2018, 09:34 PM | #8 |
Drives: ZL1/335i Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Santa Barbara
Posts: 870
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Actually, look just under the rearmost spark plug on the driver side. I think the knock sensor and connector are under that aluminum shield. You’d need to access it from below, but you can see it from under the hood.
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04-03-2018, 10:12 PM | #9 |
Drives: 22 ZLE 6MT Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: NY
Posts: 101
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Easier to see with LT’s I’m assuming? I’m hoping it was just a bad batch of gas. I remember looking for knock sensors my e92 M3 when I started working on it. Then I found out the S65 engine used the spark plugs to control or detect knock and that’s when I decided to leave the engine alone lol. My favorite engine to date. But I digress ... I’ll try looking for this sensor tomorrow.
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04-04-2018, 11:14 PM | #10 | |
Drives: ZL1/335i Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Santa Barbara
Posts: 870
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Quote:
I had an S65 powered M3 myself when they first came out. As fun as it was to wind the thing out to 8400 RPM, I’m more of a torque guy. The car just never felt fast to me. They’ve been pretty solid engines to date (at least from what I’ve seen at my shop) but overly complicated like all BMW engines. Probably a good call leaving it stock. |
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03-18-2019, 09:39 PM | #11 |
Drives: Chevy Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Florida
Posts: 15
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I know this is kind of a dead thread but hoping for the best here. I to have a P0330 code, you said that the bank 2 sensor was pretty easy to replace? I looked it up on a labor manual guide and it said 5.3 hours to rnr. Shows draining coolant, removing a whole bunch of shit. You did not have to do this?
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02-18-2020, 02:24 PM | #12 |
Drives: Honda S2000 Join Date: May 2019
Location: SC
Posts: 133
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I also have gotten a p0330 bank 2 knock sensor code and looked it up on Mitchell says 5+ hrs . Who has replaced the sensor?
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03-15-2020, 08:54 AM | #13 |
Space_Ghost
Drives: 2017 Chevrolet Camaro 2ss Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 27
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I'm seeking answers and advice as well. Yesterday during my 2nd 20 minute session, after a quick WOT pull on a straightaway, I got a CEL. Pulled to pits 5 mintues later and pulled the codes. It was a P0325 and P0330.
I ran a 20 mintue session prior to this happening and not issues. And at this point on during the 2nd session, I was already 5 to 7 minutes in and then the CEL happened.
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2017 Camaro 2ss M6 performance mods: Whipple 2.9; LT4 fuel system; 2" Kooks Longtube Headers w/ Green Cats; RotoFab Big Gulp series CAI; GPI forged pistons & rods; BTR stage 3 camshaft; DSX Flex Fuel Sensor; JMS Voltage Booster; JRE tune |
09-15-2020, 08:46 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2018 Chevrolet camaro Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: NEBRASKA
Posts: 5
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