[Redlinez]

Does it require eccentric camber bolts or is everything able to be done on the the car as is? I have an alignment tech at work who will do it, but want to make sure I don't need anything parts wise. Thanks for any help!!!

[kropscamaro16]

doesnt need anything to be aligned properly from the factory but adding eccentric bolts for the rear toe or toe rods helps

[Scargoes]

If you do the exact GM track alignment, it can be done with what is on the car. But the service manual does say that the rear camber bolt and toe bolt need to be replaced each time they are adjusted. Those bolts are torque to yield.

If you are going more aggressive than the GM track spec, you may or may not be able to get the rear toe in to the spec you want. There isn't enough adjustment when going to -2* or more of rear camber. That is where the adjustable rear toe links come in handy.

[Redlinez]

Thanks yall

[pbsinternet1le]

I would suggest going for max camber up-front around -2.4 front and -1.5 rear.. car is very neutral and tire wear is even..at -1.5f understeer is still there. Square setup also is better for me.

[Redlinez]

Sounds like a plan. Stick with track toe settings?

[Osbornsm]

Originally Posted by Redlinez

Sounds like a plan. Stick with track toe settings?

If you'd like the steering wheel to NOT feel as though it's stuck in mud... you can get a lil toe OUT in the front.


Still tracks straight, just more responsive to your inputs. 2c

[cdrptrks]

My track alignment is max camber: -2.3° front, -1.4° rear, toe: 0° front, +0.05° rear per side [+0.10° total rear toe]. Zero front toe and very slight positive rear toe per the performance manual has worked well for me including often driving hours on highways to and from track days. I had zero rear toe previously and it might have tended towards oversteer slightly more on track but not completely sure. One side's front max negative camber is a few tenths greater than the other on my car so make sure they match camber side to side on each axle to the lower number if that is the case for you.

For front they also need to loosen the 2 nuts that allow camber adjustment on each side (red #1 on the attached picture), back them almost completely off of the bolt, hammer them to break free, and hold them out to disengage the hidden splines while pushing in the top of the wheel to get max camber of about -2.5 otherwise about -1.8 is the max if they don't disengage the splines. Make sure they tighten the 3 bolts holding each plastic front brake cooler well or they will fall out over time...happened to me. Also if you overtighten them the heads can snap off...also happened to me lol. And finally if running the SS track brake cooling deflectors make sure the wiring harness stays under with the clip pushing up into the plastic to prevent wire damage on full steering lock per the install directions...techs may remove this clip and try to put it back wrong from the top if you aren't there watching

And buy a bolt or two (10 mm - 1.5 40mm hex head or regular head bolt from the hardware store) for temporary use fine tuning front negative camber (blue #3 in attachment) to match on each side after they max it in case they don't have one on hand. It goes in the threaded hole at the top of the silver metal piece by the bottom of the shock.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...=489495&page=2

I replaced the 4 rear TTY bolts myself before my first alignment and it was a pain requiring 3 floor jacks. Probably easy on a lift but Firestone refused to do it even if I paid them extra. I reused the same bolts on the most recent alignment since the rear alignment changed somewhat over time even on the brand new bolts and it feels and looks (from tire wear) like rear settings are now holding after several track days in spite of reusing the bolts but I had the tech get them very tight. There is a torque spec PDF attached to the thread below.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=502324

Also I started putting a note in the car by the shifter warning about low front splitter after watching a tech nearly destroy it on a parking curb after I specifically warned the guy at the counter beforehand. And bring your own 2x12 boards (a few feet each) as they may be needed to get clearance to make it onto a hunter alignment rack if it isn't in ground.

[JK001]

@cdrptrks. Good write up.
I've had as much as -2.7 front camber on all stock suspension. Zero toe front and as you pointed out total of 0.10 toe rear. You can also go -2.0 camber on the rear. All safe as street driven trackable car. If more track oriented than street, vorschlag or ground control camber plates and square set up will make the 1le stock suspension even better. Heck of a platform, too bad the weight of the car

[Hops]

my car came from the factory with -1.3 and and -1.4 camber in the rear, so i just left it alone. The wear on track seems ok in the rear. For the front, I DIY front alignments twice a year and get -2.5 to -2.6 for the track season, and go back to ~-1.0. So far it's worked well.

[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by JK001

@cdrptrks. Good write up.
I've had as much as -2.7 front camber on all stock suspension. Zero toe front and as you pointed out total of 0.10 toe rear. You can also go -2.0 camber on the rear. All safe as street driven trackable car. If more track oriented than street, vorschlag or ground control camber plates and square set up will make the 1le stock suspension even better. Heck of a platform, too bad the weight of the car

Thanks, your note on the rear is interesting although my wear has been relatively even with the current camber. Do you know if the cam washers attached to the rear bolts have to be rotated or if some other technique is required to get more rear camber? More hidden splines somewhere? Firestone could only get a max of -1.4 rear camber with 0 toe or -1.3 with +0.05 toe per side claiming I would have to add aftermarket parts to get more if I want it in the future but unsure if they knew the full adjustment technique for the car or not.

[cdrptrks]

There is also a diy strut mod to add more front camber on stock hardware but I wouldn't recommend doing that before your first alignment unless you track very frequently and/or plan to get stickier tires soon. I haven't done it yet but might soon.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=526353

[2023 SSM 1LE]

Reviving this threat based on some info a dealership passed to me: I scheduled an appointment to get a track alignment, and have ordered the four TTY bolts for the rear. The service rep said using new bolts would take significantly more time and be treated like a control arm replacement, implying they were under spring tension.

Is the rear control arm under spring tension to where the spring must be compressed prior to swapping out the rear camber bolts, or can the bolt be swapped out with weight on wheels?

[Scargoes]

Originally Posted by 2023 SSM 1LE

Reviving this threat based on some info a dealership passed to me: I scheduled an appointment to get a track alignment, and have ordered the four TTY bolts for the rear. The service rep said using new bolts would take significantly more time and be treated like a control arm replacement, implying they were under spring tension.

Is the rear control arm under spring tension to where the spring must be compressed prior to swapping out the rear camber bolts, or can the bolt be swapped out with weight on wheels?

The bolt can be swapped out without compressing the spring. BUT, you do need to properly support the control arm under the spring to keep it from coming apart on you when you remove the bolt. When I do mine on the lift, I use one of those tall screw jacks to hold the control arm in place as I remove the bolt.