[sr71bb]

OK I assume you got SPLPARTS TOE RODS on the rear. If so I would adjust camber to -2.6 to -2.7. On the front you should adjust to -3.6 to -3.7.

Hotchkiss unfortunately has supply issues so thats why you see more BMR. There's NO DOUBT though that the FRONT HOTCHKISS sway bar is BETTER than the BMR.

To make the BMR sway bar on the FRONT to perform properly without splitting the delrin bearings you have to purchase their BILLET bearing holders at 300.00. This item is NOT in their catalog but a special order item

BMR Billet Steel Bearing Holders for FRONT Sway bar (SBB010 is a SPECIAL Order part from BMR NOT in catalog, cost is around 300.00)

[That1guy_tim]

What is your track experience? If fairly new I can only assume that you were just trying to drive the slow corners too fast.

Also rear tires being from 2017 they might be heat cycled out. But you would also have less grip in the rear during high speed corners.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by synolimit

to maybe answer your question about the rear bar and using rule of thumb, the rear needs to be pretty soft with the front as insane as you can get. in fact most racing teams will make their own front bars because nothing on the market is strong enough. Doran Racing that used 370z's would make their own sling blade style because the Hotchkis wasn't enough. as for the rear i think they and most others would use OEM or the thinner G37 bar. i understand these are different cars but all 3 are front engine RWD. why does hotchkis make a rear if no ones gonna use it? idk. money? but i wouldnt get anything aftermarket unless the BRM is thinner and weaker than OEM. im assuming you dont have the 1LE rear bar which is 3 way adjustable?

so my top 3...
1. less rear bar
2. looks like you're rear toe'd in already correct? just weird i dont see a neg anywhere since the front shows the arrow out and the rear shows inward but no neg sign.
3. more attack on that rear wing since you can adjust it. whats your angle of attack now? i use a straight edge and my phone as a level. are you over 6º?

EDIT, also, im almost betting the 1LE has stiffer springs which we can swap and replace with say Swifts since they are 2.5" ID. i know the OEM rates on mine but not sure what they are on yours. if body roll is your main issue vs the oversteer, you need stiffer springs since a ZL1 and 1LE should weigh the same.

Yeah, the alignment sheet is kinda funky. The picture is showing front toe out but the #s are still positive. The industry standard is toe in #s are a positive value. The rear is showing toe in which is a good thing.

As far as the toe #s are concerned, I think those alignment specs are good, assuming the toe has not changed since then.

Originally Posted by That1guy_tim

What is your track experience? If fairly new I can only assume that you were just trying to drive the slow corners too fast.

Also rear tires being from 2017 they might be heat cycled out. But you would also have less grip in the rear during high speed corners.

I agree here too, I've run with quite a large difference in the life cycle of front and rear tires, including the 3Rs and heck yeah the balance will be off.

Details matter.

[20Bluezl1]

Originally Posted by sr71bb

OK I assume you got SPLPARTS TOE RODS on the rear. If so I would adjust camber to -2.6 to -2.7. On the front you should adjust to -3.6 to -3.7.

Hotchkiss unfortunately has supply issues so thats why you see more BMR. There's NO DOUBT though that the FRONT HOTCHKISS sway bar is BETTER than the BMR.

To make the BMR sway bar on the FRONT to perform properly without splitting the delrin bearings you have to purchase their BILLET bearing holders at 300.00. This item is NOT in their catalog but a special order item

BMR Billet Steel Bearing Holders for FRONT Sway bar (SBB010 is a SPECIAL Order part from BMR NOT in catalog, cost is around 300.00)

Ok so im assuming if I can get a hold of the Hotchkis kit it would be better than using the BMR.

https://www.hotchkis.net/product/201...md=432&sm=3069

And I will try those alignment specs.

[20Bluezl1]

Originally Posted by That1guy_tim

What is your track experience? If fairly new I can only assume that you were just trying to drive the slow corners too fast.

Also rear tires being from 2017 they might be heat cycled out. But you would also have less grip in the rear during high speed corners.

So as far as track experience on a car just a couple years. As I use to race motorcycle for a long time but thats totally different.

As far as the tires being heat cycled that could be it also as I'm not sure exactly how many sessions where on them from previous owner. Out of curiosity I have read guys using 3R till they cord, but how many heat cycles or sessions do you guys do before they get greasy?