01-16-2020, 10:20 AM | #29 | |
Drives: 2017 2SS, 50th pkg, M6, MRC, NPP Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Ocean City, NJ
Posts: 3,174
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Quote:
The Goodrich comp 2 all-season a lot of people here run gets a very good wet traction rating. I got that for my son's G37 in the Ft. Myers area. |
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01-17-2020, 04:46 AM | #30 |
Drives: 2017 Camaro SS Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: East Tennessee
Posts: 522
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__________________
Kevin
Luceo Non Uro |
01-17-2020, 07:28 AM | #31 |
Drives: Chev Camaro Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: North Ms
Posts: 20
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So, when I got my ‘16 maro I had to replace the tires. I’m a replace with oem part kind of guy. It’s what the mfgr spec’d and tested, so, cant miss is how I look at it.
However I had a couple people that work at local tire shops try and steer me to non run flat tires. At first it seemed great, but then I realized I wasn’t a rich man. 1, as mentioned the car didn’t come with a jack or spare, meaning adding some after market retro fit trash and weight to my joy ride. 2, I can’t speak for others but, I don’t have endless amounts of cash to throw at preventable repairs. When a tire fails using non run flats, the car will be shredding rims. If people are racing the car, then they probably don’t care about the rims or fender well, etc that is going to get shredded at 25 to 100+ mph a free a tire fail. Just getting the car out of the road and on to a shoulder will chew that pretty factory finish to shreds. Basically it’s just how the car was designed and personally I like the way it looks, Id rather not be visiting a body shop over something so avoidable. I’ve had other sports cars, and using other tires didn’t make the car stop, accelerate, turn or use fuel faster or slower. My use case may be different but for daily vying for ‘first place’ in commuter traffic, or the occasional put down of some punks rice burner, factory spec is more than enough for the car. With all that in mind and after two days of scouring the internet to try and save a couple bucks, I found the local Chevy dealer where I live had the best price, installed and I got the ‘free’ whatever point inspection to boot. Good feeling to walk away from the dealer with some kind of feeling the tires were done right, the car was checked out by techs that at least ‘should know’ the most about the car. Working in IT for over 20 years has taught some repeating truths. One big one is always that spending the money when it’s actually time to spend the money on the solution you know you need, not whatever will ‘work’, will save you time and money you may not have down the road. Don’t let the idea of saving a couple of dollars lure you into putting something on that could cost you more money in body work and replacement parts...or worse... Best of luck! Last edited by acniv; 01-17-2020 at 07:41 AM. |
01-17-2020, 09:07 AM | #32 |
Drives: 2017 2SS, 50th pkg, M6, MRC, NPP Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Ocean City, NJ
Posts: 3,174
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In my experience this hardly ever happens. I used to fix tires at a gas station. I think much more rim damage comes from parking. It takes a special kind of idiot to keep driving on a blown out tire. Most people are smart enough to just pull over.
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01-17-2020, 09:48 AM | #33 |
Drives: 2017 2SS A8 NGM, 2012 Yamaha FZ8 Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Ohio
Posts: 189
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Just read reviews on TireRack. That's what I did and this was the impression I got after reading a lot of reviews for both: Run flats wear out quicker. Run flats are noisier. Run flats don't perform as well on the street, especially in the wet.
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01-17-2020, 10:00 AM | #34 |
Drives: 2017 2SS A8 NGM, 2012 Yamaha FZ8 Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Ohio
Posts: 189
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Agree, I've been in IT for over 20 years too (which is irrelevant) and had lots of tires fail. Never had a rim get shredded. If you buy good tires and care for them properly, it's FAR more likely you'll discover problems with them before a catastrophic failure IMO.
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