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Old 04-01-2018, 08:05 PM   #1
jcaligood
 
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Arrow LS3 Hot Cam?

I recently lost all oil pressure while driving, shut the car down and had it towed to my house. it now sits in my garage, waiting on the mellings high volume oil pump i ordered.

I figured, while im at it, i should cam it. I've heard of these GM hot cams which use your factory valvetrain and make 480hp stock to the crank. Im running Vararam intake, ported throttle body, 1 7/8 long tube headers, high flow cats, solo performance exhaust, and a dynosteve tune.

My question is, if it's possible to simply only swap the camshaft with a GM "hot cam", while keeping stock valvetrain (i may change springs anyway), why is everybody spending $1400+ on a big cam and lifters, pushrods, springs?

I'm trying to make some decent power, but still maintain daily driver-ability on a M6.

Is the hot cam the way to go?

Do i want more lift rather than duration?

Somebody please chime in. I'm trying to purchase a cam or kit tomorrow!

Thanks for the help.
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Old 04-01-2018, 08:45 PM   #2
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$1400 makes it reliable, you dont need new lifters since is a ls3 but you need trunions.
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Old 04-01-2018, 08:54 PM   #3
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Bo White ran this cam with stock valvetrain with great success PM him about it. very similar to hot cam but this one is better because it has more lift. Call Lingenfelter about it, this should be fine with stock valve springs.

https://www.lingenfelter.com/product...l#.WsGM-4jwaM8

https://www.lingenfelter.com/PDFdown...L210055297.pdf
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Old 04-01-2018, 09:31 PM   #4
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Since you have a dynoSteve tune are you gonna stay with him? if so he would be the best to spec a cam since he is doin the tune..right? plus I would never do a cam swap and keep stock springs nor the P/R's...just sayin...once you add all the pieces up? gonna cost ya regardless so may as well go for the gusto! peace
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Old 04-01-2018, 10:01 PM   #5
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The stock cam has .551 lift on the intake so the GT1 cam at .561 lift or the hot cam would be fine with the stock springs. just keep it under 6300
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Old 04-01-2018, 10:48 PM   #6
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guess I should have said one of my very first mods was to ditch the POS stock springs and P/R's..along with the trunnion upgrade this STOCK cam car will kick a lot of a$$....just sayin...peace OP and hope YOU spend ur monies wisely...g'nite!
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:15 PM   #7
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I ran stock rockers for 134k miles and 2 cam swaps.
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Old 04-01-2018, 11:51 PM   #8
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thanks for the fast response. im most likely going to get a set of .660 dual valve springs no matter what, unless it is not needed, or if the weight of the dual springs is not worth it.

Is it absolutely necessary to swap the pushrods with a cam like GT1?

Has anyone ran the GT1 cam with stock pushrods and just new springs and trunion kit?

Is it necessary to upgrade timing gear/chain? I cant tell if the GT1 is 3 bolt or not.
How much power over stock is this GT1 making?

Looking for a nice choppy idle and decent gains, but still maintain drivability in town while being easy on the valvetrain, but might as well make it worth it.

Can anyone recommend anything?

Thanks again.
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Old 04-02-2018, 12:07 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bo White View Post
I ran stock rockers for 134k miles and 2 cam swaps.
Good to know. Someone said you ran the GT1 cam on a completely stock valvetrain, how did it go? Would you suggest running this?
I believe the stock valve springs are lighter than dual springs, what would you recommend?

Can i run this GT1 without replacing anything, or would it be risky?
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Old 04-02-2018, 03:05 AM   #10
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I ran it with just 7.400 comp pushrods
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2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter
Totalled:
2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X
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Old 04-02-2018, 06:25 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcaligood View Post
thanks for the fast response. im most likely going to get a set of .660 dual valve springs no matter what, unless it is not needed, or if the weight of the dual springs is not worth it.

Is it absolutely necessary to swap the pushrods with a cam like GT1?

Has anyone ran the GT1 cam with stock pushrods and just new springs and trunion kit?

Is it necessary to upgrade timing gear/chain? I cant tell if the GT1 is 3 bolt or not.
How much power over stock is this GT1 making?

Looking for a nice choppy idle and decent gains, but still maintain drivability in town while being easy on the valvetrain, but might as well make it worth it.

Can anyone recommend anything?

Thanks again.
Use a good PSI1511 with tool steal or titanium retainers. I spin my ls3 regularly over 7300 on no lift shifts and its seen 7900 several times. (I data log my passes) These dual springs are fine if needed but you are adding weight to your valve train for a tiny cam. The PSIs will drop a little over a pound off. Just food for thought.........
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Best ET 10.58 @ 131.8 stock heads and stock cam 453/445 SAE
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Old 04-02-2018, 10:21 AM   #12
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I thought in your original post that you wanted a cam that you could use with the factory valve springs. If you are going with new springs I would use a different cam all together.
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Old 04-02-2018, 11:06 AM   #13
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Nightfury or bust....
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2011 Red Jewel Tintcoat 2SS-Mods: Edlebrock E Force S/C w/ 3" pulley swap,Texas Speed roller Boost Cam 227/235, 641"/649", 114 LSA, PRC Ported Heads, Ported TB,ARH 1 7/8 headers, McLeod RST twin disk 1000 hp clutch, ZL1 Fuel Pump, 620whp
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Old 04-02-2018, 01:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcaligood View Post
thanks for the fast response. im most likely going to get a set of .660 dual valve springs no matter what, unless it is not needed, or if the weight of the dual springs is not worth it.

Is it absolutely necessary to swap the pushrods with a cam like GT1?

Has anyone ran the GT1 cam with stock pushrods and just new springs and trunion kit?

Is it necessary to upgrade timing gear/chain? I cant tell if the GT1 is 3 bolt or not.
How much power over stock is this GT1 making?

Looking for a nice choppy idle and decent gains, but still maintain drivability in town while being easy on the valvetrain, but might as well make it worth it.

Can anyone recommend anything?

Thanks again.
based on the above my first recommendation is to go back and research the above and get an education...you are plannin on doin this ur self..right? EVERY item above has been covered in multiple threads...and is what I did when I got this car...having the correct knowledge makes a huge diff in what you end up with.
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