Fuel line, check valve question

swisstyphoon · 01-10-2021, 10:53 AM

I plan to replace the factory check valve with the one from Lingenfelter. If I cut the crimped, braided hose from the hardline, is is it possible to use a quick connect fitting on the hardline? Is there already a bulge on the hardline that accepts a quick connect female fitting?

travislambert · 04-18-2021, 04:47 PM

Did you find an answer on this? I have the same question.

swisstyphoon · 04-18-2021, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travislambert

Did you find an answer on this? I have the same question.

Yes, there is a bulge on the hardline, but it is not safe with just a new hose clamp, and to short for a quick connect. I ended up cutting the hardline and making a new quick connect flare with a flaring tool.

Or you could also just use a AN hardline adapter like this one. (No flare tool needed) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-AT165086ERL

travislambert · 04-18-2021, 08:16 PM

Awesome! Thank you for the detailed response!

*radz28* · 11-21-2021, 12:38 PM

Could anyone share part numbers for this conversion? Did it work for you guys?

Thanks.

swisstyphoon · 11-21-2021, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by radz28

Could anyone share part numbers for this conversion? Did it work for you guys?

Thanks.

Yes it works.
I only have the part number from my link in my post above.
& I used some of those AN quick connect adapters
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...-quick-connect

*radz28* · 11-22-2021, 07:43 AM

Thank you very much!!!

Trochoidal · 11-22-2021, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swisstyphoon

Yes, there is a bulge on the hardline, but it is not safe with just a new hose clamp, and to short for a quick connect. I ended up cutting the hardline and making a new quick connect flare with a flaring tool.

Or you could also just use a AN hardline adapter like this one. (No flare tool needed) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-AT165086ERL

Hey Swiss, is this the crimp tool you used? It sure looks the same.

https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-72...s%2C431&sr=8-1

swisstyphoon · 11-23-2021, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trochoidal

Hey Swiss, is this the crimp tool you used? It sure looks the same.

https://www.amazon.com/MASTERCOOL-72...s%2C431&sr=8-1

Yes that is the one. I suggest to make some test crimps first on an old line, to get the feel for it. If I remember correctly you have to use the 3/8 quick connect die set, not the 3/8 GM, that is the old style.

*radz28* · 11-23-2021, 09:06 AM

So the line and fittings are 3/8"? I thought someone said somewhere it was 5/16". I think that's part of my confusion. What size is on the car? Being a possible failure point (pointed out in another thread), I'm giving this option a little more though. I could be completely wrong on this one.

Thanks for any more information.

MartinLe · 11-24-2021, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by radz28

So the line and fittings are 3/8"? I thought someone said somewhere it was 5/16". I think that's part of my confusion. What size is on the car? Being a possible failure point (pointed out in another thread), I'm giving this option a little more though. I could be completely wrong on this one.

Thanks for any more information.

I just read the thread you referenced, too. Is the check valve necessary? It sounded like the car actually ran (started) better without the check valve? I am having Ted's (JRE) 2650/cam package installed and am wondering if I should swap out the fuel line with the SS one?

LiqTenExp · 11-24-2021, 02:11 PM

One thing I don't see mentioned in this thread is where whp wise this check valve is actually a concern/restriction... I see 3400-3700 psi (with 70-74 psi feeding it) WOT on my fuel rail pressure during pulls so I haven't found it yet.

I know there are many of us in the 700-900 whp range w/o touching this. Seems easy enough to change but to what value?

01-10-2021, 10:53 AM	#1
swisstyphoon Former GM Technician Drives: 2018 ZL1 A10, 06 Silverado Duramax Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Switzerland Posts: 341	Fuel line, check valve question I plan to replace the factory check valve with the one from Lingenfelter. If I cut the crimped, braided hose from the hardline, is is it possible to use a quick connect fitting on the hardline? Is there already a bulge on the hardline that accepts a quick connect female fitting? Attached Images __________________ 2018 Camaro ZL1 A10 Rotofab Big Gulp, Nick Williams 103, Magnuson 2650, 9.17" (14%) lower, 90mm upper, Vengeance Racing Heads (LME) Cam Package (Cammotion Stage 1), Johnson Lifters, JMS Voltage Booster, Lingenfelter high flow check valve, BBK shorty headers, Custom 2.75" down pipes, Gesi Gen2 high flow cats, MM catch can 791whp, 772ft-lbs SAE Just added 30% XDI Injectors, LPE big bore hpfp, Flex fuel. Elite tuning, results coming soon. 2006 Silverado Duramax Diesel MPI Compound Turbo 40% over Injectors Efi Live DSP5 Tuning Follow me on Instagram: Swisstyphoon1980

04-18-2021, 04:47 PM	#2
travislambert Drives: '17 ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Fairmont, WV Posts: 1,558	Did you find an answer on this? I have the same question. __________________ 2023 Camaro SS 1LE A10 2023 Camaro ZL1 1LE M6 2017 Camaro ZL1 M6 2016 Camaro SS M6 w/LT4 (Sold)

04-18-2021, 08:16 PM	#4
travislambert Drives: '17 ZL1 Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Fairmont, WV Posts: 1,558	Awesome! Thank you for the detailed response! __________________ 2023 Camaro SS 1LE A10 2023 Camaro ZL1 1LE M6 2017 Camaro ZL1 M6 2016 Camaro SS M6 w/LT4 (Sold)

11-21-2021, 12:38 PM	#5
radz28 Petro-sexual Drives: Ultra-Grin Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Crazy Coast Posts: 15,179 View My Garage	Could anyone share part numbers for this conversion? Did it work for you guys? Thanks. __________________ '20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs

11-22-2021, 07:43 AM	#7
radz28 Petro-sexual Drives: Ultra-Grin Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Crazy Coast Posts: 15,179 View My Garage	Thank you very much!!! __________________ '20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs

11-23-2021, 09:06 AM	#10
radz28 Petro-sexual Drives: Ultra-Grin Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Crazy Coast Posts: 15,179 View My Garage	So the line and fittings are 3/8"? I thought someone said somewhere it was 5/16". I think that's part of my confusion. What size is on the car? Being a possible failure point (pointed out in another thread), I'm giving this option a little more though. I could be completely wrong on this one. Thanks for any more information. __________________ '20 ZL1 Black "Fury" A10, PDR, Exposed CF Extractor Magnuson Magnum DI TVS2650R // RFBG // Soler 103 // TooHighPSI Port Injection // THPSI Billet Lid // FF // Katech Drop-In // PLM Heat Exchanger // ZLE Cradle bushings // BMR Chassis-Suspension Stuff // aFe Bars // Diode Dynamics LEDs // ACS Composites Guards // CF Dash // Aeroforce // tint // other stuffs

11-24-2021, 02:11 PM	#12
LiqTenExp Drives: 2017 ZL1 Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: NJ Posts: 905	One thing I don't see mentioned in this thread is where whp wise this check valve is actually a concern/restriction... I see 3400-3700 psi (with 70-74 psi feeding it) WOT on my fuel rail pressure during pulls so I haven't found it yet. I know there are many of us in the 700-900 whp range w/o touching this. Seems easy enough to change but to what value? __________________ 2017 Camaro ZL1 Coupe M6 (847whp Dynojet on 93) Last edited by LiqTenExp; 11-24-2021 at 02:23 PM.

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