[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by Move_Over

I agree with the above poster, it sounds like stock pads will fit the bill of what you are looking for.

In your last couple of points, it really seems like you want a dual-use pad. They simply don't exist. You'll either have really poor rotor wear on the street with track pads, or very bad pad performance on the track with 'performance street pads'. I learned the hard way on my M3 and melted a set of DTC30's I paid good money for, didn't even last me a day before they crumbled out of my caliper. Granted, I was a beginner at that point and probably braking incorrectly. I enjoyed my DTC60's last season, however, they only lasted me 14 sessions.

I have a set of R12's in right now, and they do not make a ton of noise on the street, maybe a little bit. They perform well enough on the street and pair well with slicks on track. Dust like crazy but they are livable.

I would learn to change your own pads if you do not already, not only for swapping between pads but for diagnosing at the track. It takes me about 5 minutes per corner and is very very easy to do on this car.

Good to know! They are really that easy to change?

Can you clarify regarding the DCT30's? You melted them on the track?

I'm not familiar with R12's, who makes them?

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by Stormtrooper1le

This has to be the most idiotic titled post ever. Street pad and race slicks shouldnt even be in the same sentence let alone anything dual purpose.

I'm assuming you have an extra set of wheel and not driving the slicks around town regularly. If this is the case you might as well get an extra set of pads seeings your already swapping rims OR just run race pads on the steet. I have both ferrodo ds1.11 and 3.12 and drive on street occasionally with zero issues or sketchiness.

Calm down and learn how to read, it says ENTRY LEVEL TRACK PAD "Picking an Entry Level Track Pad for Street driving and Tracking with slicks".

[GunMetalGrey]

Originally Posted by Jimbeau11

I've been driving my Hawk DTC-70s and DTC-60s on both track and street. Zero noise, but a lot of dust (I don't really care, just FYI as it bothers some people).

I commute 106 interstate miles per day, with frequent (high-speed) stop and go. I actually prefer having the racing pads for DD and to me there isn't enough "wear and tear" to make it worth swapping back and forth.

The DTC-60s are a nice "next step" pad for the track and work very well on the street, if you don't mind the dust.

Originally Posted by Black E

Another vote for Halk DTC 70/60 combo.
Great on track, great on the street. Only downside is that they’re dusty.

Wow that's great to know, I may very well try these, thanks

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey

Good to know! They are really that easy to change?

Can you clarify regarding the DCT30's? You melted them on the track?

I'm not familiar with R12's, who makes them?

Yes they are very easy to change. Two bolts to remove for the front calipers, and a punch tool. The rear calipers are just a punch tool. And press the pistons back in. Different methods for that though. I use the pad itself to push the pistons back in before removal.

R12 is made by gloc.

DTC 30 i essentially melted. I got them too hot and they separated from the backing plate and crumbled. They are not made for heavy track cars, probably fine on the street though

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey

Calm down and learn how to read, it says ENTRY LEVEL TRACK PAD "Picking an Entry Level Track Pad for Street driving and Tracking with slicks".

I think what he means is that the same pad should not be used for street driving, and tracking with slicks. Which, I’m in agreement with, a pad that is acceptable for good street use really shouldn’t be used with a slick as its not going to have nearly enough stopping power for slicks.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by GunMetalGrey

I'm not familiar with R12's, who makes them?

R12 is G-loc's third step up in their track-rated pad ladder, and it's essentially the same pad as Carbotech's XP12. FWIW, I'm not the only one finding that 10's last slightly/somewhat longer than 12's. As long as you aren't needing the extra temperature capability of the 12's, anyway.

What makes me uneasy about Hawk's DTC30/Street Race compound is that mu falls off a cliff at just over 1200°F / 650°C. I'm afraid that without quite a bit more experience you might not feel them going away on you in time. I'm not at all sure that I would.

I do trust at least the general shape of Hawk's or any other pad mfr's curves without worrying if the "exact" temperature at any given value of mu for any given batch is precisely as plotted or within some unknown plus/minus amount . . . I think I'd trust mu to be within ±0.02 before trusting °F/°C to be within 25°.


Norm

[NickyRacerBoy]

What group do you run in? How much seat time do you have? Number of track days?

[NickyRacerBoy]

BTW I've used Pirelli DH take offs and and only got 3 sessions on them. After that I was off by a second. They are not cheaper in the end then new Hoosiers in my case.

[seanblurr]

I have indeed run the stock pads with a few different tire combinations including SC3R's, NTO1's, Hoosier R7's, and DH take-offs. They worked for all the tires. With that said, they WILL fade. But it is a very linear, consistent and manageable fade. I never felt they truly impacted safety or lap times. You can run them all day and they won't destroy your calipers either.

I finally ran a set of DTC70/60's this past event and I really did not feel a huge improvement. They generated a few hundred degrees more (I have temp stickers on calipers), which in turn caused some fluid issue. They also after one event turned all four calipers into Brownbo's. All in all, taking into account the extra heat, "destruction" of the calipers and marginal improvement in braking performance, I can not say I find them worth it. I will be giving them another go in two weeks at a different track, so we will see if my opinion changes.

[NickyRacerBoy]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

I have indeed run the stock pads with a few different tire combinations including SC3R's, NTO1's, Hoosier R7's, and DH take-offs. They worked for all the tires. With that said, they WILL fade. But it is a very linear, consistent and manageable fade. I never felt they truly impacted safety or lap times. You can run them all day and they won't destroy your calipers either.

I finally ran a set of DTC70/60's this past event and I really did not feel a huge improvement. They generated a few hundred degrees more (I have temp stickers on calipers), which in turn caused some fluid issue. They also after one event turned all four calipers into Brownbo's. All in all, taking into account the extra heat, "destruction" of the calipers and marginal improvement in braking performance, I can not say I find them worth it. I will be giving them another go in two weeks at a different track, so we will see if my opinion changes.

I run 70s and smoked a caliper. RB pistons now with DBA rings and they feel spectacular!

[seanblurr]

Are those pistons available for the ZL1 calipers? Do they get rid of the rubber boots entirely?

[NickyRacerBoy]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

Are those pistons available for the ZL1 calipers? Do they get rid of the rubber boots entirely?

I believe so.
Comes with high temp dust seals.

I am POSITIVE that braking is improved along with being consistent.

[NickyRacerBoy]

tems Ordered: Price: Status:
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$520.80 Shipped

[NickyRacerBoy]

https://www.racingbrake.com/Save-10-...p/bz-61bsp.htm