[DamonZ28]

Originally Posted by SwL_Wildcat

Cut the blue and the yellow wire (pin 6 & 12) and install a double position single throw switch (DPST). The port will still be hot, but they won't be able to do any communications with any of the modules with out the CAN data bus.



Hide the switch somewhere discrete and just flip it on when you need to connect to the OBD connector.


If you are really worried you can install a TPSD and cut the green wire on pin 1 too and wire it in, just to be sure.

Would it be possible to put some type of inline connectors on these two wires, and just connect them when you need to use the port?

[SwL_Wildcat]

Originally Posted by DamonZ28

Would it be possible to put some type of inline connectors on these two wires, and just connect them when you need to use the port?

Sure, you could just cut them and install a deutsch connector and plug in when needed, but a switch is so much easier.


Edit to add. Another neat trick would be to power pins 6 and 12 with 12V constant power if you have a DPDT switch. Should someone attempt to plug into your OBD port not only will it not connect, it will also fry their tool. Anyone foolish enough to not ask your permission to access would be in for a rude surprise. Just remember to flip the switch before you take it to anyone who legitimately needs access. Not only did they not get your car, they won't be getting anyone else's vehicle either until they get a new tool. It would be like a CCW license and the umbrella effect.Thieves would never know who has hot wired their data port so will be leary about plugging into any vehicles. Not only are you protecting your vehicle, you are also helping to protect other vehicles in the community too.

[w123luke]

I think I saw that there is a fuse in the trunk for the OBD port. Could pulling that do the trick by itself?

[DamonZ28]

Originally Posted by w123luke

I think I saw that there is a fuse in the trunk for the OBD port. Could pulling that do the trick by itself?

That's a good thought. Would it be the F29 Data link connector fuse? I couldn't find a fuse labeled for the OBD port.

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by DamonZ28

That's a good thought. Would it be the F29 Data link connector fuse? I couldn't find a fuse labeled for the OBD port.

It's Circuit #40 which comes back to Pin #36 on the X1 connector at the rear fuse panel. But I haven't found the schematic that identifies what fuse that is.

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by SwL_Wildcat

Cut the blue and the yellow wire (pin 6 & 12) and install a double position single throw switch (DPST). The port will still be hot, but they won't be able to do any communications with any of the modules with out the CAN data bus.



Hide the switch somewhere discrete and just flip it on when you need to connect to the OBD connector.


If you are really worried you can install a TPSD and cut the green wire on pin 1 too and wire it in, just to be sure.

This is a neat idea, simply intercepting and opening data lines with the classic toggle switch. I also agree that a 4PDT switch would open high and low data lines. And this switch doesn't need to be convenient to access either, as it's only used when you want to scan.

https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Positi.../dp/B07VG81BKQ

Originally Posted by weekend_cruiser

I have been following the numerous anti-theft threads and like @keep_hope_alive, my exposure is low since I park in a garage both at home and work. I also drive my car a bit so needed the solution to not be an inconvenient one.

Got the obd2 extension and disconnected all the wires with the exception of the 12V and the two grounds. This way when they plug in their instrument, it will get power and send CAN messages but get a NACK. I doubt these thieves are savvy enough to debug CAN issues on the fly. Hope I am not wrong on that. If you go this route, just make sure you disconnect the correct wires since the male and female wiring is mirrored. Use a multimeter or sth to ensure you cut the right wires. I just cut the data wires, put heat shrink around them and called it a day.

It was an absolute pain to bend down and install this. My back is still hurting. Likewise, I doubt the thieves will be willing to bend down and rummage around. Picture of complete install below. The extension is OEM looking so hid it among the OEM wires down there. You can’t tell there is anything amiss.

I am thinking of getting an additional security alarm because I have read the first thing they do is cut the wires to the car horn so it doesn’t blare whilst they are performing their crime. I am thinking an additional alarm system that keeps going off and at the same time they can’t figure out why the obd programming is not working should be enough of a deterrent. Anyways, that’s probably as far as I will go. They could always tow it and if someone wants it bad enough, they will figure out a way.

The extension is a nice way to have power available but not cut any factory wiring. Nice solution.


We could combine the two ideas to have an OBD extension that has the toggle switch wired in so you don't have to reach down under the dash to fish out the original OBD port. This way we aren't cutting any factory wiring. This OBD splitter can be used for this task, while also allowing for a Range module.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071L8W7Q7?th=1

[speedyink1]

I like the cutting data wires in the extension idea. I really don't want to start hacking wires in my new car.

[weekend_cruiser]

Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive

This is a neat idea, simply intercepting and opening data lines with the classic toggle switch. I also agree that a 4PDT switch would open high and low data lines. And this switch doesn't need to be convenient to access either, as it's only used when you want to scan.

https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Positi.../dp/B07VG81BKQ



The extension is a nice way to have power available but not cut any factory wiring. Nice solution.


We could combine the two ideas to have an OBD extension that has the toggle switch wired in so you don't have to reach down under the dash to fish out the original OBD port. This way we aren't cutting any factory wiring. This OBD splitter can be used for this task, while also allowing for a Range module.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071L8W7Q7?th=1

Good idea. The extension is not particularly long so I am actually thinking of taking it back out to wire in longer wires for the power. I will still wrap it in the OEM looking tape to make it seem factory. This will give me the flexibility of hiding the original OBD much further away from the dummy one.

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by weekend_cruiser

Good idea. The extension is not particularly long so I am actually thinking of taking it back out to wire in longer wires for the power. I will still wrap it in the OEM looking tape to make it seem factory. This will give me the flexibility of hiding the original OBD much further away from the dummy one.

I've ordered the OBD extension/splitter and toggle switch. $20. I'll make it up and have wires long enough to locate the switch somewhere else entirely. We could use CAT6 between the switch and data cabling to make a long extension easy (i.e. trunk).

Someone could also just move the OBD port to the trunk with an extension cable, no one would look there. But we'd want to really dig into the dash to make access to the legit plug nearly impossible without a lot of time.

For those of us doing this mod, we want to ensure it's not easy for thieves to just reach their hand under and fish around for the factory connector. The easiest way to make this mod permanant is to remove the driver's seat to allow a comfortable access to this area, then remove the kick panel cover and re-route factory wiring. Finish it off with a roll of TessaTape for an oem look. Having power to the dummy OBD port makes a lot of sense as it will add confusion over one that doesn't have any pins. We want a Tx error to be the impetus to just abandon the task.

[wintertopdown]

I agree. I have not parked my Camaro in public for months.

[weekend_cruiser]

Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive

I've ordered the OBD extension/splitter and toggle switch. $20. I'll make it up and have wires long enough to locate the switch somewhere else entirely. We could use CAT6 between the switch and data cabling to make a long extension easy (i.e. trunk).

Someone could also just move the OBD port to the trunk with an extension cable, no one would look there. But we'd want to really dig into the dash to make access to the legit plug nearly impossible without a lot of time.

For those of us doing this mod, we want to ensure it's not easy for thieves to just reach their hand under and fish around for the factory connector. The easiest way to make this mod permanant is to remove the driver's seat to allow a comfortable access to this area, then remove the kick panel cover and re-route factory wiring. Finish it off with a roll of TessaTape for an oem look. Having power to the dummy OBD port makes a lot of sense as it will add confusion over one that doesn't have any pins. We want a Tx error to be the impetus to just abandon the task.

Right on. I really wonder how technically savvy the crooks are. I don't know much about the OBD hack device and refuse to google it but it's possible it's self powered and doesn't even need the power from the OBD port.

I have also been thinking of another workaround that would really mess with them. It's a bit more involved though. This will basically flip the script on them. The idea is to create an isolated OBD CAN network (aka a spoof CAN network) that fakes the responses an actual car will give tricking the hack tool into believing the transactions completed successfully and new key has been reprogrammed. However when they try the new key, it doesn't work.
As a crude example, assuming the actual hack goes like below:
1. OBD hack tool: Sends CAN message (request) to car to program a new key.
2. Car: Processes the request and sends a response of either success (key programmed) or fail (key not programmed)

With above you could create an isolated CAN network (something simple as a small microcontroller + can transceiver) that sits on the other side of the OBD port and fools the hack tool. Obviously implementing something like this would require knowing what CAN messages the hack tool sends and the responses it expects. You could take the idea even further and have the "spoofing CAN network" notify authorities while it's pretending to be programming a new key.

I don't have a lot of free time these days to be able to work on something like this but if this is still ongoing come summer, might consider.

P.S. Btw, relocating the OBD port far away with extension wires and still requiring data access might present a problem. I believe the max CAN stub length for nodes (I think the OBD port is a node and not the end of the bus?) should be less than a foot. However, I make no claim to be a CAN expert so might be good to verify beforehand if you go this route.

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by weekend_cruiser

Right on. I really wonder how technically savvy the crooks are. I don't know much about the OBD hack device and refuse to google it but it's possible it's self powered and doesn't even need the power from the OBD port.

I have also been thinking of another workaround that would really mess with them. It's a bit more involved though. This will basically flip the script on them. The idea is to create an isolated OBD CAN network (aka a spoof CAN network) that fakes the responses an actual car will give tricking the hack tool into believing the transactions completed successfully and new key has been reprogrammed. However when they try the new key, it doesn't work.
As a crude example, assuming the actual hack goes like below:
1. OBD hack tool: Sends CAN message (request) to car to program a new key.
2. Car: Processes the request and sends a response of either success (key programmed) or fail (key not programmed)

With above you could create an isolated CAN network (something simple as a small microcontroller + can transceiver) that sits on the other side of the OBD port and fools the hack tool. Obviously implementing something like this would require knowing what CAN messages the hack tool sends and the responses it expects. You could take the idea even further and have the "spoofing CAN network" notify authorities while it's pretending to be programming a new key.

I don't have a lot of free time these days to be able to work on something like this but if this is still ongoing come summer, might consider.

P.S. Btw, relocating the OBD port far away with extension wires and still requiring data access might present a problem. I believe the max CAN stub length for nodes (I think the OBD port is a node and not the end of the bus?) should be less than a foot. However, I make no claim to be a CAN expert so might be good to verify beforehand if you go this route.

I think the easiest way to implement this would be snagging an ECU from a junkyard, doesn't have to be from a Camaro either, could be a Chevy Spark, just something that gets power and communicates. I wouldn't try to reinvent the wheel or anything. The dummy ECU will have a ton of errors since it won't be connected to anything, but will communicate.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive

It's Circuit #40 which comes back to Pin #36 on the X1 connector at the rear fuse panel. But I haven't found the schematic that identifies what fuse that is.

Because I don't want to post what fuse number that is (assuming I'm interpreting ALLDATA and other obvious reference material correctly), could it be as easy a installing a switched fuse bypass, for example?:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-71-7cm...9735628&sr=8-3

Or am I missing something? I would consider extending this harness to a more convenient/hidden location within the passenger compartment, but am I out of line thinking this could be a possible alternative, too? I'd rather not chop-up the data link connector harness, and because I have gauges/and tune through it, it would, in the least, have to be switchable, so I'm contemplating a less invasive alternative, or adding an additional layer of deterrence to either of these alternatives.

Thoughts or comments?...

[The Maverick]

Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive

I think the easiest way to implement this would be snagging an ECU from a junkyard, doesn't have to be from a Camaro either, could be a Chevy Spark, just something that gets power and communicates. I wouldn't try to reinvent the wheel or anything. The dummy ECU will have a ton of errors since it won't be connected to anything, but will communicate.

Now this is a fun idea... leaving the thief with the impression "this vehicle is a mess, better find another one to steal!"