[dfxrte]

Originally Posted by SwL_Wildcat

Cut the blue and the yellow wire (pin 6 & 12) and install a double position single throw switch (DPST). The port will still be hot, but they won't be able to do any communications with any of the modules with out the CAN data bus.



Hide the switch somewhere discrete and just flip it on when you need to connect to the OBD connector.


If you are really worried you can install a TPSD and cut the green wire on pin 1 too and wire it in, just to be sure.

Ya I just plan on moving the oem port somewhere deeper in the dash / paneling and then just put a dummy in its place. If I'm gonna get into cutting wires I could install an electric immobilizer as well, not a bad option. IGLA is king though

[SwL_Wildcat]

Originally Posted by dfxrte

Ya I just plan on moving the oem port somewhere deeper in the dash / paneling and then just put a dummy in its place. If I'm gonna get into cutting wires I could install an electric immobilizer as well, not a bad option. IGLA is king though

The OP was about free theft protection. Putting in a switch is almost free, maybe $10 for the switch and 30 minutes of time. Basically an ECM lockout switch.

[wintertopdown]

I would like to understand these options. I have decent soldering abilities. Can the OBD port be simply cut off and changed to a DIN connector?

[Rnovrit]

What about using a tripple pole double throw switch and in one position it connects the data wires from the ob2 connector to the vehicle and in the opposite position links pins 1, 6 and 12 together at the odb2 connector. Would this do anything to the scan tool or would it do nothing since there is no power at the terminals?

[SwL_Wildcat]

Originally Posted by Rnovrit

What about using a tripple pole double throw switch and in one position it connects the data wires from the ob2 connector to the vehicle and in the opposite position links pins 1, 6 and 12 together at the odb2 connector. Would this do anything to the scan tool or would it do nothing since there is no power at the terminals?

I double throw switch would allow you to connect the CAN data to something else instead of the OBD connector. You could use that to wire in anything that you would normally plug into the OBD connector but have to unplug to scan, like an insurance tattletale. A single throw switch would just break the connection on the CAN lines after the switch to the OBD port, which is all you really need for theft protection.

[Dawizman]

What about wiring in a bunch of capacitors, something like a USB Killer, on the data pins? This way when they plug in, it fries their device.

[alexTop]

Interesting idea, luckily for me I don't think I drive a Camaro that is in high demand amongst thieves!

[Rnovrit]

Originally Posted by Dawizman

What about wiring in a bunch of capacitors, something like a USB Killer, on the data pins? This way when they plug in, it fries their device.

This is more what I was asking about the switch. Not only break the connection between the port and computer but have it so when the switch is in the no communication position, the port is mis-wired to damage the thief’s device.

[GenericID10T]

Just an FYI for anyone considering this option, I received notice this morning from Mouser that the OBD2 port, part 51115-1611 referenced in the original post, has been set for End of Life and is being discontinued. It looks like they still have a healthy inventory on hand, but may want to order soon.

[eaglesfan2006]

Originally Posted by GenericID10T

Just an FYI for anyone considering this option, I received notice this morning from Mouser that the OBD2 port, part 51115-1611 referenced in the original post, has been set for End of Life and is being discontinued. It looks like they still have a healthy inventory on hand, but may want to order soon.

Thanks for the heads up! Curious tho, do I need 18 of part #571-5-928999-6??

[GenericID10T]

Originally Posted by eaglesfan2006

Thanks for the heads up! Curious tho, do I need 18 of part #571-5-928999-6??

I only did 8 (number of wires connected on the real one). I didn't actually connect any wires or power to my dummy - I installed the dummy and then put an OBD2 lock on it. If a thief were to manage to get the lock off, the OBD2 port will look real, but isn't going to work when they try to plug in their device. Hopefully at that point, with the real port re-located, they would be frustrated enough or seen, and give up and move on.

FYI - I am not sure if 571-5-928999-6 is the actual correct part - they do not look like the ones in the actual OBD2 port, but it is close enough to give the illusion the OBD2 is actually connected. If they manage to get the lock off, maybe they will think they damaged/broke it, or is not compatible with their tool. That is my hope anyway, lol. I also have an Apple AirTag, which I removed the speaker from and hid.

[weekend_cruiser]

I have been following the numerous anti-theft threads and like @keep_hope_alive, my exposure is low since I park in a garage both at home and work. I also drive my car a bit so needed the solution to not be an inconvenient one.

Got the obd2 extension and disconnected all the wires with the exception of the 12V and the two grounds. This way when they plug in their instrument, it will get power and send CAN messages but get a NACK. I doubt these thieves are savvy enough to debug CAN issues on the fly. Hope I am not wrong on that. If you go this route, just make sure you disconnect the correct wires since the male and female wiring is mirrored. Use a multimeter or sth to ensure you cut the right wires. I just cut the data wires, put heat shrink around them and called it a day.

It was an absolute pain to bend down and install this. My back is still hurting. Likewise, I doubt the thieves will be willing to bend down and rummage around. Picture of complete install below. The extension is OEM looking so hid it among the OEM wires down there. You can’t tell there is anything amiss.

I am thinking of getting an additional security alarm because I have read the first thing they do is cut the wires to the car horn so it doesn’t blare whilst they are performing their crime. I am thinking an additional alarm system that keeps going off and at the same time they can’t figure out why the obd programming is not working should be enough of a deterrent. Anyways, that’s probably as far as I will go. They could always tow it and if someone wants it bad enough, they will figure out a way.

[Capricio]

Proof of concept bench demo, cheapo amazon components dummy OBD2, with siren and starter coil lockout timers, and reset switch.

[DamonZ28]

Originally Posted by The Maverick

OBD2 locks are apparently also a thing -- which could be interesting to put something like this on top of a replacement OBD2 port (and particularly a "rewired" one, to reduce the likelihood of unintended damage to "friendly" equipment).

https://a.co/d/aD2V9Yo

I bought one of these and attempted to install it yesterday. Got it on nice & tight, then gave it a pull to see if it worked. It came right off. I thought maybe I didn't do something right, so I started to reinstall it. Didn't even get it reinstalled before it broke. Back to Amazon it goes.