[SSDan]

Originally Posted by zag

I'm wondering if you were to go a ground on the body instead of the negative ground stud, if your charging system would charge at a lower rate and not a constant 14.4? I could be way off, so don't beat me too badly.

Ha! Couldn’t resist!

It wouldn’t make any difference. The negative stud is just a convenient place to make the body connection. There is nothing mysterious or magical about adding an additional ground cable. It’s purpose is to make sure the negative side of the electric circuit between the battery and everything that needs its power is complete and has the lowest resistance possible. My car is charging like it always did. On short trips the voltage readings are often in the 14v range and as I drive further it drops in the 12v range as the alternator has finished its job and brought the battery to full charge.

[enzia35]

Well, my Camaro is sitting in a Whataburger parking lot due to hot start issues. I'm going to jump it after work if it doesn't crank. The cable will be ordered shortly.

[zag]

I found that if you hooked it up as SSDan suggests, 21inches long works great. Thanks SSDan for all your posts on this subject. It seemed to help out a lot of people.

[enzia35]

Originally Posted by fxdxron1

There are several ways you can route the ground cable. I routed mine under the fuse box so that less of the cable is visible.

Did you have to modify the cable any? Looks like a bit is snipped off there. Would the regular bolt work also?

[grampa_ss]

Originally Posted by enzia35

Did you have to modify the cable any? Looks like a bit is snipped off there. Would the regular bolt work also?

Yes you do. Cut the tip of to make a "U".

[enzia35]

Originally Posted by grampa_ss

Yes you do. Cut the tip of to make a "U".

Even on the water pump bolt? That seems a bit easier as I don't have the tools available to notch the cable.

[SSDan]

Originally Posted by zag

I found that if you hooked it up as SSDan suggests, 21inches long works great. Thanks SSDan for all your posts on this subject. It seemed to help out a lot of people.

Thank you for the kind words. This issue has plagued so many that once I tried this out and found success I just had to share it with the forum. I’ve gotten a lot of good info on here and wanted to pay back.

Originally Posted by enzia35

Did you have to modify the cable any? Looks like a bit is snipped off there. Would the regular bolt work also?

I’m sorry to read you’ve joined the hot start failure club. I believe you do not need to modify the cable lug if you use the water pump bolt. I don’t know if there is enough thread on that bolt to slide the lug on the bolt from the other side. Because as I look at it I would want the cable lug on the bolt first and then a metal washer so that both sides of the lug are sandwiched between metal thus making a strong connection. I believe these reasons are why fxdxron used a longer bolt.

Good luck and I hope you get your car back from Whataburger.

[STYLO LT1]

Can someone forward this thread to GM? LOL

[TP2SS]

Originally Posted by enzia35

Did you have to modify the cable any? Looks like a bit is snipped off there. Would the regular bolt work also?

If you're talking about the water pump bolt, no.

The water pump bolt is installed from the rear. It goes through what appears to be a black plastic flange, then threads into the water pump housing, i.e., there are threads in the WP housing that the bolt tightens onto. The end of the bolt is flush with the front side of the WP housing, and you can see it easily on the upper part of the housing.

To use this location, you must remove the bolt from the backside (easy access, looks to be a 10mm hex head). Then go buy the same thread-size bolt, but at least 1/2"-3/4" longer. Install the new bolt in the housing from the backside and tighten. The bolt then serves its original purpose, before the new cable is installed. The longer threads only serve as a "post" to install the cable.

You can then place a washer over the "post" (exposed threads), then the cable, then another washer, then a lock-washer & nut.

I haven't done it yet, but that's what I saw when I looked at mine a few days ago. I need to go back with tools and remove the bolt and buy a longer one.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by STYLO LT1

Can someone forward this thread to GM? LOL

...building an all-electric fleet by 2025 yet leaving it to us DIY garage chimps to figure out a missing ground

[N Camarolina]

Thanks so much to those who have spearheaded this solution.

@fxdxron1 or anyone else who has used the water pump mounting position: Does anyone know the bolt size, thread pitch, and length that is needed for the new bolt to replace the OEM shorter one?

[GroundhogSS]

Originally Posted by N Camarolina

Thanks so much to those who have spearheaded this solution.

@fxdxron1 or anyone else who has used the water pump mounting position: Does anyone know the bolt size, thread pitch, and length that is needed for the new bolt to replace the OEM shorter one?

I got the hardware at Auto Zone. The bolt is an M6-1.0x40 mm Hex Flange Bolt. The nuts are M6-1.0 Hex Flange Nuts. I got 1/4" (M6) 6.35 mm washers.


I didn't put a washer between the cable and the water pump. I cleaned off the metal surface and the flange on the cable with some emery paper, then used a washer and two nuts to secure it.


Very pleased with the results so far, four days.

[Dagstar]

^^^^Very helpful GroundhogSS!

Originally Posted by SSDan

Thank you for the kind words. This issue has plagued so many that once I tried this out and found success I just had to share it with the forum. I’ve gotten a lot of good info on here and wanted to pay back.

You the man Dan. Attached mine the other day, no issues so far.

[vtirocz]

Was something changed on the 2017 and later models? Mine does not exhibit this issue ever. I have a 2017 SS.