[ChadSZL1]

Originally Posted by JSH

Make one change at a time. Stay with E. Put on a 10% lower pulley, get it dyno/tuned and let's see where you are then.

I just don’t want to end up needing to tune the car 2-3 times. What about a 10% lower and a DSX aux? Hoping that would help me keep the E content up. Or both of those and a standard blower port then tune and tcm tune. I would prefer to do the tuning 1 time.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by ChadSZL1

I just don’t want to end up needing to tune the car 2-3 times. What about a 10% lower and a DSX aux? Hoping that would help me keep the E content up. Or both of those and a standard blower port then tune and tcm tune. I would prefer to do the tuning 1 time.

Well, you've got an opinion above that all you need is a lower (there are numerous % choices, I picked 10%) and a tune to make 700. I'll take his word for it, but a Kong, 10%, and LS FP should more than do it.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by ChadSZL1

I just don’t want to end up needing to tune the car 2-3 times. What about a 10% lower and a DSX aux? Hoping that would help me keep the E content up. Or both of those and a standard blower port then tune and tcm tune. I would prefer to do the tuning 1 time.

The more boost you add the lower your E content will likely have to be, but that being said, you might still be able to run some E and make 700whp depending on pulley choice. You can however make 700whp on 93 octane though with your mods and a Kong ported blower and lower pulley.

[KingLT1]

[ChadSZL1]

I don’t think that a 10% lower only will achieve my goal of 700. I think it will be in the 680 range. I could always use my 15% lower but I don’t want to add a ton of added heat and over spin the blower. Would my jms voltage booster be enough to hold E40-50 with 10% lower and a standard blower port? I feel those 2 together would get the job done and keep the heat under control for the most part.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by ChadSZL1

I don’t think that a 10% lower only will achieve my goal of 700. I think it will be in the 680 range. I could always use my 15% lower but I don’t want to add a ton of added heat and over spin the blower. Would my jms voltage booster be enough to hold E40-50 with 10% lower and a standard blower port? I feel those 2 together would get the job done and keep the heat under control for the most part.

If you're not willing to do a 15% pulley, you can always go with a Kong ported blower which is good for about 30whp and then add a lower pulley for the rest. I feel like you're getting a little hung up though on a whp figure. As many have stated, it will likely take a minimum of 700whp to get into the 9s but that's with a drag pack, TCM tune, good weather, good track conditions and lots of practice. It will likely be easier to get there with 750-800whp but it will cost a bit more and you will need a cam or port fuel injection, unless you want to go the cheaper route with meth. My car is running a 18% lower pulley, Kong ported blower and makes 700whp on 93 octane.

[Evansa22]

Originally Posted by ChadSZL1

I don’t think that a 10% lower only will achieve my goal of 700. I think it will be in the 680 range. I could always use my 15% lower but I don’t want to add a ton of added heat and over spin the blower. Would my jms voltage booster be enough to hold E40-50 with 10% lower and a standard blower port? I feel those 2 together would get the job done and keep the heat under control for the most part.

You might be able to hit 40% ethanol. With headers, jms, big gulp, 103 tb, max effort ported blower, 8% pulley. I'm at 20% e really good air. Normal air 25-30% e. Also my tune is running a little richer at .80 lambda. 14 psi max boost was 20% e, 12.5-13.5 was at 25-30%

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by ChadSZL1

So what would my car make with a 2650 on it and the current mods? I prob couldn’t run much E content. I prefer E over 93 also.

In order to run E at the 700 RWHP level you need to have a cam with a 32% lobe.

If you do a cam and blower combo your looking at 800 on pump without trying too hard providing you have the right cam and combo.

See JRE superstreet brawler package.

That's no aux pumps, aux tanks, or meth just plain old reliable OEM intercooler system.

You would have to tone down the boost to get down to 700 on E.

[ChadSZL1]

Thanks Ted I definitely want no meth. So with a cam could you also run a lower and hit 700 tire and on some blend of 93/E85? Then maybe add the blower later down the line if it’s needed?

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by ChadSZL1

Thanks Ted I definitely want no meth. So with a cam could you also run a lower and hit 700 tire and on some blend of 93/E85? Then maybe add the blower later down the line if it’s needed?

Yes it is possible we have done it many times.

The torque is easy because you spin the blower faster, the HP is hard because the cam outflows the stock blower even when spun faster.

But a blower cam combo is like magic, the struggles of making power disappear like Houdini.

[TXCSSU]

Curious on the 700 RWH for the OP, are you planning on going with a wider tire? I'm looking at possibly adding more HP (first I have to receive delivery, of course) but I also want to make sure that I'm adding useful HP. I hate the idea of just adding HP to give myself a big number, as I think I'd probably go with a Hellcat if I was only concerned about big HP numbers. I want to make sure that I have enough tire/brakes for the boost in numbers, otherwise I'm just creating a tire shredding device. I hope that the 325s from a 1LE are at least a part of the discussion.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by TXCSSU

Curious on the 700 RWH for the OP, are you planning on going with a wider tire? I'm looking at possibly adding more HP (first I have to receive delivery, of course) but I also want to make sure that I'm adding useful HP. I hate the idea of just adding HP to give myself a big number, as I think I'd probably go with a Hellcat if I was only concerned about big HP numbers. I want to make sure that I have enough tire/brakes for the boost in numbers, otherwise I'm just creating a tire shredding device. I hope that the 325s from a 1LE are at least a part of the discussion.

My car makes 700whp. In the summer the OEM SC3s get pretty good grip, In the winter they're useless with that much power. I honestly can't see anyone making use of more than 700whp except at the track with sticky drag radials. That's why I stopped where I did when modding mine. Chasing HP numbers can be addictive until you can't use it, then regret often sets in eventually unless you just like to spin the tires.

[TXCSSU]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

My car makes 700whp. In the summer the OEM SC3s get pretty good grip, In the winter they're useless with that much power. I honestly can't see anyone making use of more than 700whp except at the track with sticky drag radials. That's why I stopped where I did when modding mine. Chasing HP numbers can be addictive until you can't use it, then regret often sets in eventually unless you just like to spin the tires.

And just like most reviews of the ZL1 that start off with, "You won't win many bar room bets..." when compared to the "more potent" Mustang and Challenger, they always seem to give the nod to the Camaro over the other two when it comes to objective road racing. I suspect 700 RWHP may be the magic number with the current setup.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

My car makes 700whp. In the summer the OEM SC3s get pretty good grip, In the winter they're useless with that much power. I honestly can't see anyone making use of more than 700whp except at the track with sticky drag radials. That's why I stopped where I did when modding mine. Chasing HP numbers can be addictive until you can't use it, then regret often sets in eventually unless you just like to spin the tires.

Wiser words are rarely spoken My car dynoed at ~700 rwhp on 93 (735 rwhp on ~E60), and there is little point in anything more for the street with an RWD vehicle.