[RaceChip]

Originally Posted by zts1986

With respect to the RaceChip GTS, I've solved most of my issues by going to NGK 6510s and gapping at 0.022." The issues were constant "blow-outs" with the plugs in every gear, every time I was near max boost.

Now I still, once in a while, get a little engine cut out between 4800 and 5000 rpm when NOT at full throttle. At full throttle, all is well. Still trying to diagnose, but it's at the point where it happens once a day, at most. No CEL.

The performance of the GTS? Adds a hell of a lot of fun for fairly low cost. I'm very pleased. Especially at midrange, this thing pulls like crazy.

Please use lower maps where you do not experience any engine cuts and wait for our engineers to investigate this in more detail. We'll get in some more Camaros an do a range of tests.

[zts1986]

Originally Posted by RaceChip

Please use lower maps where you do not experience any engine cuts and wait for our engineers to investigate this in more detail. We'll get in some more Camaros an do a range of tests.

I havent had any issues in the last two days since i filled up with 91 non-ethanol (my tank is now half 93 octane with 10% ethanol and half 91 octane without ethanol). I have no idea if this corrected it or if it's a coincidence, but i'm two days problem free and loving life.

I'd like to see some testing with an upgrade intake and downpipe. I'm interested in a downpipe to attempt to reduce turbo lag. What are your thoughts there?

[Jason@JacFab]

Originally Posted by zts1986

With respect to the RaceChip GTS, I've solved most of my issues by going to NGK 6510s and gapping at 0.022." The issues were constant "blow-outs" with the plugs in every gear, every time I was near max boost.

You sir, probably just solved the mystery of people that were having problems with their RaceChip.

I never had any issues with mine, but reading this just made me remember that I had already closed my plug gap up a little to combat spark blow out before I even put the RaceChip on to test it. I've been running my gap at .029"

Spark blow out is a very real issue on these engines, especially when trying to run increased boost!

[zts1986]

Originally Posted by Jason@JacFab

You sir, probably just solved the mystery of people that were having problems with their RaceChip.

I never had any issues with mine, but reading this just made me remember that I had already closed my plug gap up a little to combat spark blow out before I even put the RaceChip on to test it. I've been running my gap at .029"

Spark blow out is a very real issue on these engines, especially when trying to run increased boost!

Not just gap, but the 6510s are actually a step colder than the stock plugs, I believe. I'm assuming that your plugs are colder as well, perhaps?

[Jason@JacFab]

Originally Posted by zts1986

Not just gap, but the 6510s are actually a step colder than the stock plugs, I believe. I'm assuming that your plugs are colder as well, perhaps?

They are a step colder also, but I think the problem that some users have complained about is more related to the spark blow out.

If people are getting knock, going a step colder makes sense. It's a decent idea to go a step coder with a "real tune" that's aggressive, so it makes total sense that the RaceChip device may need the same treatment, but will probably vary depending on the performance setting its run on, and on a car to car basis.

[zts1986]

According to RaceChip customer service (which has been EXCELLENT, btw), the GTS was programmed to run on 95-RON fuel with 0% ethanol. This would equate to 91 octane (without ethanol) US gas.

My car has run perfectly with the GTS lately. Last week I had half of a tank of 93 e10 and filled up with 90e0. I'm going to be trying to determine if the cars performance is coincidental or if it is actually dependent on what fuel is used. I'm near empty now. I am going to fill 1/4 tank with 91e10 and see how the car performs.

It could just be a case of the GTS and XLR needing a few hundred miles to learn an adapt, as well. But hey, this kind of research is fun...

[EWard]

This is great feed back, thanks for all of your support in helping the cause.

[zts1986]

Well, perfect did not last long. Here is a summary of what has gone on with my chip, which I installed on 3/17. Previous to the install of the GTS and XLR, my car ran perfectly.

1. My initial big problem was spark plug blowout. This was eradicated by replacing the stock plugs with NGK 6510s and gapping them at 0.022".

2. My second problem is that, even prior to the XLR installation, the throttle would cut out on occasion. Whether I am accelerating heavily or cruising, this seems to happen at random.

3. Third problem: the engine cuts out once in a while between 4000 and 5000 rpm when NOT at a full-throttle acceleration. Not sure what to do here. Reducing the octane and ethanol content seemed to help, but the issue didnt completely disappear, just decreased in frequency.

4. Failed cold-weather start: this morning my car refused to start twice. I would clutch in, brake, and push the button. The engine would turn over, rev up, choke, and stall out. This happened twice. On the third attempt, I had to give it a lot of gas while it was starting up to get it to fully start. From then on it seemed okay.

At this point, I am getting increasingly frustrated. The service team at RaceChip has been excellent. That, and the fact that the thing really does increase performance at a very noticeable level, is what is keeping me patient.

I'm going to come up with a diagnostic plan after work today and I'll share that for any input you guys might have. I have to get this figured out by Saturday, because I'll be out of town for work for two weeks and need to return the GTS by 4/11 to receive my refund.

What a bummer this has been.

[zts1986]

My diagnostic plan:

1. Fill tank with 93e10
2. Disconnect RaceChip XLR and GTS
3. Test stock

---if all goes well---

4. Connect RaceChip XLR
5. Test

---if all goes well---

6. Connect RaceChip GTS
7. Set to map setting 0
8. Test

---if all goes well---

9. Test car in map setting 1 and continue through the map settings
10. Stop if issues arise

---IF/WHEN issues arise---

11. Return to last working map setting and test
12. Fill tank with 91e0
13. Test car in current map setting and continue through
14. Stop if issue arises



This seems like the best plan to test all individual changes. Each test drive will last 1-3 days, as I'm pretty sure that the RaceChip "brain box" needs time to "learn."

Step 3 will attempt to validate the spark plugs.
Step 5 will attempt to validate the RaceChip XLR throttle controller.
Steps 8-10 will attempt to validate the RaceChip GTS.
Steps 11-13 will attempt to determine if the GTS issues are related to fuel.

While I am incredibly disappointed and discouraged at this point, the RaceChip service has been very responsive and I am willing to work with them through this. I've yet to see a CEL, so I am not too worried about the engine, so far.

I've asked the RaceChip team to extend my 30-day return policy to 60 days so that I may complete this testing. I hope they agree. Otherwise, it's going back on Saturday, as I have to leave town for work for a couple of weeks.

[RaceChip]

Originally Posted by zts1986

My diagnostic plan:

1. Fill tank with 93e10
2. Disconnect RaceChip XLR and GTS
3. Test stock

---if all goes well---

4. Connect RaceChip XLR
5. Test

---if all goes well---

6. Connect RaceChip GTS
7. Set to map setting 0
8. Test

---if all goes well---

9. Test car in map setting 1 and continue through the map settings
10. Stop if issues arise

---IF/WHEN issues arise---

11. Return to last working map setting and test
12. Fill tank with 91e0
13. Test car in current map setting and continue through
14. Stop if issue arises



This seems like the best plan to test all individual changes. Each test drive will last 1-3 days, as I'm pretty sure that the RaceChip "brain box" needs time to "learn."

Step 3 will attempt to validate the spark plugs.
Step 5 will attempt to validate the RaceChip XLR throttle controller.
Steps 8-10 will attempt to validate the RaceChip GTS.
Steps 11-13 will attempt to determine if the GTS issues are related to fuel.

While I am incredibly disappointed and discouraged at this point, the RaceChip service has been very responsive and I am willing to work with them through this. I've yet to see a CEL, so I am not too worried about the engine, so far.

I've asked the RaceChip team to extend my 30-day return policy to 60 days so that I may complete this testing. I hope they agree. Otherwise, it's going back on Saturday, as I have to leave town for work for a couple of weeks.

I am not in customer service, but I promise that you can return it at a later point. Please send me a private message if there are any issues concerning this. I would appreciate if you do not return it now, because then you could test the solution our engineers will come up with. They already reserved time in their R&D plan for working on the Camaro again. Furthermore, we might come back to you if we are not able to replicate the problem.

[zts1986]

So long as I don't have a check engine light and I haven't gone through the testing that I want to do, I do not want to return it. I want this to work.

What is the time frame on your testing and where is the testing taking place?

[Start The Machine]

Sounds like you are destroying your car with this race chip thing. Just some friendly advice, get a safe, proper tune from Trifecta, ZZP, Vermont or Dannytech. They all have the whole tuning thing down to a science now and days. If you're worried about warranty work, you can always revert your car back to the stock calibration if you need to.

[RaceChip]

We don't encourage customers to be guinea pigs for problem solving. That's why we organize the cars and investigate this with our engineers.

We'll start next week. We'll do it in the US, but we are unfortunately not close to you. (Removed) ECU tunes by the way are easy to identify if you just check the flash counter of the ecu.

[zts1986]

Dealerships absolutely can tell that you’ve flashed your ECU after something goes wrong and they know why you did so. It’s just that they usually cannot prove anything. I’d like to see this option work out. The performance when it’s functioning properly is incredible. It’s a solid working performance accessory for other vehicle applications, so I tend to believe they can make it work.

I would like your opinion, however, as to how I am destroying my car. I mean that, not challenging you. In my mind, a few “misfires” or the throttle cutting out isn’t going to harm anything, especially if I pay attention to it, keep it to a minimum, and solve this issue. No CEL is a confidence boost, as well. I’m open to the idea that I am wrong, though...