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Old 11-21-2016, 04:36 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by Speedy1975 View Post
How does it do after 2 or 3 dyno runs? Power stay the same or drop off a bit or ?
That all depends on the tuner and what they're willing to risk. There can be zero or near zero drop off between runs, but may not be in the best long term interest of the owner/car. I'm sure the stock tune on the ZL1 is super conservative with pulling timing due to sensitivity to heat.
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Old 11-21-2016, 04:36 PM   #86
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The ring time was done during manufacturers week.
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Old 11-21-2016, 04:39 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeke.Malvo View Post
That all depends on the tuner and what they're willing to risk. There can be zero or near zero drop off between runs, but may not be in the best long term interest of the owner/car. I'm sure the stock tune on the ZL1 is super conservative with pulling timing due to sensitivity to heat.
Yes, I understand these principles. My question relates to how the box stock Manguson tune compares to what we're seeing with the ZL1. Once you start custom tuning and all that everything changes.
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Old 11-21-2016, 04:41 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedy1975 View Post
How does it do after 2 or 3 dyno runs? Power stay the same or drop off a bit or ?
Powerfab said it was the best CAN tune they have seen and the power was consistent never lost power after 3 pulls unlike the old eforce.

After looking at the LT4 ZL1 it looks like they are using engine coolant for the blower vs stand alone tank/ reservoir and heat exchanger is this correct?
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Old 11-21-2016, 04:48 PM   #89
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The Magnuson box stock tunes for the Challengers have been excellent as well.

Good question on the coolant for the blower on the ZL1.
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Old 11-21-2016, 06:03 PM   #90
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I think this is cool to see the ZL1 on the dyno....er..."read" about the ZL1 on the dyno.

That said, I think some folks need to (wait for it...)....cool it.

The OP clearly stated that this was not a well-documented, or prepped dynamometer session...Very very very few conclusions can be made with the data we see, aside from the fact that the car makes more than 500 rwhp.

I've heard assurances from multiple big-shots on the Camaro team that heat will not be a problem with this car.

This is not a new engine, and it's been mildly improved over time...let's look to the past...


http://nineballgarage.com/dyno-teste...2014-viper-ta/


"...The Viper intake manifold actually got colder by 12F after the pulls. The Z06 was still impressive though, the supercharger housing (intake manifold) only increased 1 degree, after 4 consecutive pulls. Both good, in that regard. The IAT values were another story. The Viper increased in measured Air Intake Temp by 13F. The Z06 did much better, with both IAT1 (pre-blower) and IAT2 (post-blower) both reducing after the 4 consecutive runs. GM did a great job on the cooling efficiency on this blower..."
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Old 11-21-2016, 06:18 PM   #91
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E85 and upper pulley 637 hp first modded ZL1
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Old 12-03-2016, 04:12 AM   #92
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You will lose more whp through an auto.
and add about 80 lbs in weight... according to MT ( posted 3950 for auto)
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Old 12-03-2016, 10:59 AM   #93
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and add about 80 lbs in weight... according to MT ( posted 3950 for auto)
I'm still curious about that figure....

Chevy says the auto adds 61 lbs over manual on the coupe...

Yet only 35 lbs over manual in the convertible...

Why such a big difference?

nevertheless, while it's more weight...it's positioned as low and as centered as you can get. The best place to add mass...if you had a choice.
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Old 12-03-2016, 11:32 AM   #94
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Again, i'm new to a lot of this. How do they decide which gear to use on a dyno pull? Wouldn't gear selection make a difference on HP numbers? Do they just pick the one that is closest to 1-1?
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Old 12-03-2016, 04:02 PM   #95
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Again, i'm new to a lot of this. How do they decide which gear to use on a dyno pull? Wouldn't gear selection make a difference on HP numbers? Do they just pick the one that is closest to 1-1?
HP is derived from twisting force (torque) and RPM. The dyno reads both no matter what gear the car is in, but they are typically tested in drive (1:1) or as close as they can get to it.
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Old 12-03-2016, 07:12 PM   #96
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Originally Posted by 17CamaroZL1 View Post
HP is derived from twisting force (torque) and RPM. The dyno reads both no matter what gear the car is in, but they are typically tested in drive (1:1) or as close as they can get to it.
A DynoJet does not read torque. It reads HP and calculates torque based off of that. If it read torque, you would see some crazy numbers when lower gears are used.
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Old 12-03-2016, 07:13 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by txferrari View Post
Your numbers are good. Anyone stating otherwise were obviously hoping the numbers would be better, therefore hyping it up. Those numbers are solid. Intake and tune should get you close to 600 to the wheels, prob more.

I'd have to pull my old dyno videos from LMR. They've done my Z06. I think we layed down 548 as my baseline. Tune and intake got me 618 at the wheels. Then exhaust, pulley swap, some cooling, plugs, wires, and a re-tune got me 704 at the wheels. Torque ended up around 760ish. I think ya'll are going to love the LT4.

Good luck with it.
Get that sucker to baytown and run it to see what it does. Numbers are not everything. Chucks dyno is a tuning tool and does its job good for Chuck in my opinion. I'm no dyno expert but I was told his dyno is old as shit and possibly not the most accurate.

Having said that, my old low compression motor mad around 350whp and went 11.7 in my 3600lb camaro. My car should have made over 400whp but his dyno said otherwise. Good tune, numbers are not everything.
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Old 12-03-2016, 07:14 PM   #98
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Originally Posted by 17CamaroZL1 View Post
HP is derived from twisting force (torque) and RPM. The dyno reads both no matter what gear the car is in, but they are typically tested in drive (1:1) or as close as they can get to it.
As close to 1:1 is usually best since it'll give the most accurate reading. Other gears may be either too short, or too long where the drums are being spun to near 200mph.
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