[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by ATl_1LE

Welp, i just recently installed my mc2 remotes 2 weeks ago and didn't see this thread. I can confirm the front struts seem perfect but are few mm smaller on the top holes then oem causing the splines to be extremely tight. The bottom bolts has no issue.

My original thought was ugga them suckers in but honestly its tight enough to strip nut as seen in the screenshots in thread.

I was forced to grind down the top bolt splines a mm or so to get it small enough to bolt in. Bolted in now and all good. Only concern now is removing those bolts would require force if i wanted to adjust camber at the strut. but i don't see removing them being I've got the camber plates.

Interesting it was the bottom hole that caused me trouble, had no issues with top.

[ATl_1LE]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

Yeah, not sure I'd give Vorshlag my business again.

MCS also knows about the spline bolt issue and apparently have not revised the hole diameter after I talked to them about it. I'd consider reaming out the shock mounting tab on the MCS strut so the splines still engage but the bolt is easier to install. You may have luck with a non-splined bolt though, idk.

My dealing with Vorshlag has been love and hate. MCS dropped shipped just fine but was told its being shipped out when it actually wasn't released for shipping until a week later. And getting in contact has been hit or miss.

That said they helped me with missing parts over nighting what i needed multiple times to get me fully setup. Also they know answers to a lot of the technical questions i have vs most shops.
The spline issue i felt was really minor granted surprising from mcs. Also had a knob on a canister disconnect and require reinstall out of the box.

But the ride makes it all more then worth it so far.

[Slurpee]

Had my first track day after installing the MCS 2 way coilovers, SPL front and rear endlinks, tension rods, and rear upper arm. This was at Autobahn Country Club full, my first time there.

I started at 8 compression and 9 rebound all around. The first lap out, I had a general lack of grip. I had extreme tire skip under braking as the slicks warmed up, significantly more than mag ride. Any amount of trail braking, the rear would step out. Even after fully warming the slicks up, I could not stomp on the brake pedal without the tires skipping.

Brought down compression to 6 all around. Car felt much better under braking, but the butt puckering feeling on high speed sweepers was still there. Car also still felt floaty on quick left to right transitions. The rear didn't step out on trail braking as bad. Increased compression to 7 and rebound to 10. Car felt much better, and my lap time shortened by 6 seconds. Much less butt puckering feeling on high speed sweepers, and didn't feel as unsettled on quick transitions. Tire skipping on heaving braking compression on 7, but went away after the slicks warmed up fully. Trail braking was also a bit more compliant. I was pretty happy with how it felt at the end of the day. I will need to start reading more advanced literature on suspension setups to tweak further.

It is definitely like learning how to drive a new car. I will approaching 1.2 G's very quickly on the new setup, and I won't get thrown around in my seat like mag ride. How much I was moving in my seat was more or less my tell for determining limit since slicks don't squeal unless it's fresh pavement. Interestingly, the outsides of my tires were shredded. This is the opposite of mag ride, my insides wore much faster. I am nearly down to the wear dot, and this was only their 2nd day. Normally I will get 3-4 days of a pair.

Overall I am much more happy with how the car handles. I have Road America coming up in a month, and I will be able to directly compare lap times, although it's a much less corner heavy track so gains may be limited.

[FactoryMatt]

Originally Posted by Slurpee

Had my first track day after installing the MCS 2 way coilovers, SPL front and rear endlinks, tension rods, and rear upper arm. ......

nice writeup. sorry if you've mentioned, but which spring package did you go with? what are your alignment specs?

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by FactoryMatt

nice writeup. sorry if you've mentioned, but which spring package did you go with? what are your alignment specs?

-3.1 F, -2.1 R camber. 7.6 degrees of caster. 0 toe front, 1/32" total toe out rear. I am on the GTS package; 700 #/in Front / 800 #/in Rear

[FactoryMatt]

Originally Posted by Slurpee

-3.1 F, -2.1 R camber. 7.6 degrees of caster. 0 toe front, 1/32" total toe out rear. I am on the GTS package; 700 #/in Front / 800 #/in Rear

nice. toe out rear? wonder if the GT package 600/600 would help with the skittishness

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by FactoryMatt

nice. toe out rear? wonder if the GT package 600/600 would help with the skittishness

Sorry toe in lol.


When I called Vorshlag, they recommended the GTS if the car was track only with factory, which mine basically is. It's possible the SPL front tension rod's anti dive spacers is making everything stiffer, so the settings needed to go down a bit. The GTR package is for a big wang and a splitter.


I wanted to try compression at 6 and rebound at 11, but I ran out of sessions, and I was thinking I may introduce jacking down with that big of a spread. The curbs at autobahn are pretty rough, but I can straddle curbs at Road America much better.

[kropscamaro16]

Originally Posted by ATl_1LE

My dealing with Vorshlag has been love and hate. MCS dropped shipped just fine but was told its being shipped out when it actually wasn't released for shipping until a week later. And getting in contact has been hit or miss.

That said they helped me with missing parts over nighting what i needed multiple times to get me fully setup. Also they know answers to a lot of the technical questions i have vs most shops.
The spline issue i felt was really minor granted surprising from mcs. Also had a knob on a canister disconnect and require reinstall out of the box.

But the ride makes it all more then worth it so far.

i dont care about your coilover isuses i just want your aero info/specs haha sorry man! i love my mcs coilovers also but didnt have any issues with mcs or vorshlag

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by Slurpee

Sorry toe in lol.


When I called Vorshlag, they recommended the GTS if the car was track only with factory, which mine basically is. It's possible the SPL front tension rod's anti dive spacers is making everything stiffer, so the settings needed to go down a bit. The GTR package is for a big wang and a splitter.


I wanted to try compression at 6 and rebound at 11, but I ran out of sessions, and I was thinking I may introduce jacking down with that big of a spread. The curbs at autobahn are pretty rough, but I can straddle curbs at Road America much better.

On OEM roll bars?

One of the first mods I did was a Hotchkis ft bar set in the middle position. It made a huge difference, kept the rear end behind the front, allowed for much more aggressive trail braking and the rear end didn't tend to step out and hit cones as much in autox. I think GM made the car a bit loose from the factory, now my car feels much closer to the GT4R car in sim, which can brake really hard into the apex.

I also put in a ZLE rear bar, I've tried soft and medium positions and would like it halfway between the two, but feel like the middle setting is better balanced overall. I think the ZLE bar in the middle is pretty close to the OEM FE4 bar though.

On my shocks, I'm at 12 clicks front and 9 clicks rear from full soft, both comp and rebound for track. I use less for autox but it depends on the venue.

And my alignment is 4 deg ft, 2.5 rear camber, zero toe ft and 1/16 toe-in rear. Tire wear is very even and some testing with a pyrometer shows even temps across the tires running an 18x12 square setup.

[TRZ06]

Originally Posted by Slurpee

Sorry toe in lol.


When I called Vorshlag, they recommended the GTS if the car was track only with factory, which mine basically is. It's possible the SPL front tension rod's anti dive spacers is making everything stiffer, so the settings needed to go down a bit. The GTR package is for a big wang and a splitter.


I wanted to try compression at 6 and rebound at 11, but I ran out of sessions, and I was thinking I may introduce jacking down with that big of a spread. The curbs at autobahn are pretty rough, but I can straddle curbs at Road America much better.

The issue with passive dampers is that as you reduce compression (which on the 2-ways is low speed compression BTW) you also increase weight transfer.

I run into this on my GT4, I have to run at least 8 on compression (9 is even better), even though that takes some of the compliance out in order to keep the rear-end planted under hard braking.

This is where MRC really is better than a passive damper as it can actively stiffen up when needed to keep weight transfer at bay.

As far as rebound, I have to run 9 at a minimum for good chassis control, 10 is even better , but that is too much bumpy street use.

What canister pressure are you running?

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by ATl_1LE

The spline issue i felt was really minor granted surprising from mcs.

It was minor on one side but the other side wasn't minor, it was very difficult to remove the bolt without damaging the strut's mounting tabs. It sounds like Slurpee's mounting holes were so tight it wasn't even possible to install the bolt without grinding down the splines or resizing the hole.

Holes for splined bolts need to be kept to a much tighter tolerance, they really need to be drilled and then reamed, and then checked with a gauge to confirm they are the correct size. This takes a bit more time but not THAT much more time, and it's not exactly rocket science to properly size a simple hole. For what they are charging not being able to achieve proper tolerance is unacceptable, and dismissing my input on the matter as if I'm an idiot is also unacceptable. I have a ME degree and specialize in manufacturing, I probably have a lot more experience on this particular subject than anyone at Vorshlag and most folks at MCS.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

The issue with passive dampers is that as you reduce compression (which on the 2-ways is low speed compression BTW) you also increase weight transfer.

I run into this on my GT4, I have to run at least 8 on compression (9 is even better), even though that takes some of the compliance out in order to keep the rear-end planted under hard braking.

This is where MRC really is better than a passive damper as it can actively stiffen up when needed to keep weight transfer at bay.

As far as rebound, I have to run 9 at a minimum for good chassis control, 10 is even better , but that is too much bumpy street use.

What canister pressure are you running?

Agreed.

I run a lot less damping for bumpy autox venues... it improves grip but makes the car harder to drive.

Damping adjustments on RR2 adjusts both low and high speed damping together, you can see that on the curves MCS supplies.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

On OEM roll bars?

Yes FE4 bar. I cannot find anywhere to buy the hotchkis bar. From what I have seen, this thing can take a year to get delivered. I thought about getting the FEA bar, but I thought the FEA bar at full stiff was the same as the FE4 bar. I can't find the thread, but I remember reading that the FE4 bar was made stiffer to compensate for mag ride being more compliant.

[Slurpee]

Originally Posted by TRZ06

The issue with passive dampers is that as you reduce compression (which on the 2-ways is low speed compression BTW) you also increase weight transfer.

Yeah, I needed the weight transfer to keep the front tires in contact with the ground, otherwise it was just skipping. At 8 compression the car would basically just slide instead of braking. I will do some more research on suspension setups to adjust the rear independent from the front. I just wanted a baseline of I can drive this car at a track before I got to Road America.

Originally Posted by TRZ06

As far as rebound, I have to run 9 at a minimum for good chassis control, 10 is even better , but that is too much bumpy street use.

What canister pressure are you running?

10 definitely felt better than 9, but yes it was a bit bumpy. Why I am hesitant to bump up to 11.
I am non-remote so I cannot adjust canister pressure.