[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Made some small progress this afternoon. It was so warm here today (71F), I decided to tackle the outside heat pump unit. Dug out some yard /dirt, poured and level two bags of gravel, laid two 24"x24" pavers to anchor the unit to. After that, I decided to drop the "suite case" from the rear of the car. The exhaust pipe cutter worked crazy good! It took around 5 minutes each side to cut through the exhaust pipe and it was a clean cut!

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Made good progress this evening. Worked on Split A/C Heat Pump install a bit while it was still light out. Then was able to get the exhaust disconnected and the manifolds removed. Put one of two oxygen sensor extension cables on the drivers side O2 sensor. The first one went smooth as silk. But a slight set back on the 2nd O2 sensor extension cable. When I was using a small screw driver to push the grey clip upward so I could disconnect the O2 sensor from the connector (it was really hard to reach). I nicked and cut through one of the (4) wires really close to the connector attached to the wiring harness. Also damaged the clip to where it won't stay engaged. This stinks and is for sure a set back. I'll need to investigate how to correct this problem. I'm assuming I still need all (4) O2 sensors still with the long tube headers and the ultra cats? Any advice on the best method to correct my mistake would be appreciated.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

So, I will attempt to fix the sheared wire by either: 1) solder the wire and heat shrink repair area, 2) cut each connector off and solder wire to wire and heat shrink each wire separately, or 3) I do believe this is the 2nd (rear) sensors and I think I read it can be tuned out and ignored by computer so no engine code etc.

I found this post as well:
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=497114

[CW3SF]

That’s a tough location to repair a wire break. I believe there’s a tool to push the pin out of the clip and make the repair easier but I don’t have a link on hand, just think I remember seeing it somewhere.
And you are correct in that the rear sensors can be disabled in the tune.

[RobZL1]

I think I'd either add a new length of wire to the pin, then solder further up the harness, or buy a pre-wired o2 pigtail and solder it in (or buy another extender and use it for parts)

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

CW3SF and RobZL1 - Both great ideas. I think I'll go one of those routes. I guess I could just leave as is and deal with it by a tune. But once the headers are installed, it will be inaccessible at that point. So if I'm going to worry with it, I better attempt the repairs now! Thanks!

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

OK, didn't take a pic of it but I was able to repair the cut O2 sensor wire. I added a length and soldered to the cut end closest to the connector first. Then, I took the other end of the length of wire and soldered it to the other cut end. Used heat shrink around the repair and it looked good! Got the first set of cats removed and was able to get the headers bolted up! The drivers side was a breeze! I just removed the steering column link and the drivers side header slipped straight in from the engine side! The passenger side was close to doing the same, but the starter heat shield bolts were in the way. I ended up drop the entire sub-frame under the front of the car and had the slide the passenger side header up from the bottom. Got them torqued to 22 Ft lbs. and ready to started the rest of the exhaust tomorrow. Also, I decided to open open my catch can to see what it looked like. I was a bit shocked with the amount of fluid in the can with so little miles on my car. But, those so little miles were hard and fast miles.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Decided to replace the rest of the stock exhaust with the new Speed Engineering 3" exhaust> Since I have the long tube headers, Ultra CATs and the Corsa Axle Back NPP mufflers and tips. It looks like the overall length will need modified to match up to the length of the CSP Long tube headers and the Ultra CATs. But a few questions for installing it: 1) When installing, should I make sure the new "X-Pipe" location is exactly where the stock X-Pipe is located? 2) What about the brace that's seems to be under the exhaust right after the X-Pipe where GM as "crimped" the pipe down, will the new exhaust in that same area need to hang lower so it doesn't contact the under body of the car? Also, it look's like where the rear of the exhaust has the hangers, the rest of the length back seems to be a few inches shorter than where the Corsa Axel Back instructions shows to cut the stock exhaust. This is probably because when I first planned this out I was not planning on replacing all the exhaust pipe. Does that make sense? Thanks in advance for your help !

[WhiteMale]

I thought when I had a CAI and axle back and few other minor things sitting at the house waiting on my car, when it hit 3800, that I was ahead of the game but man you've got this crushed!

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by WhiteMale

I thought when I had a CAI and axle back and few other minor things sitting at the house waiting on my car, when it hit 3800, that I was ahead of the game but man you've got this crushed!

Ugh... I don't even want to think about the fact that I've torn apart a brand new 2023 ZL1 that ran $73,000+ that has less that 188'ish miles on it ! The upside is, everything comes off smooth as silk, no need for PV Blaster and no rust etc.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

I did find a solution for the new 3 inch x pipe/ exhaust where the tunnel brace goes: HALO Driveshaft Tunnel Brace 2016-2023 Camaro I picked up from Phastek. Found this on another post here! thanks "manders500"

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=38

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

This evening I was able to get the Katech valve covers, coil relocation rails, Granatelli coils packs and plugs and plug wires installed. Need to contact Mike at Katech as the instructions with the valve covers are not accounting for the "PCV" connectors on my stock valve covers are not threated and can't be removed. They almost look pressed in? So I will need to get two PCV hose connects for the valve covers.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Last evening, I was able to get the engine side of things buttoned up. Just need to reinstall air intake and tighten clamps, then ready to finish exhaust. I might do a video on startup with ONLY HEADERS before completing the exhaust! After that, I’ll get my remote tune! Also, ran into a snag while double checking all the bolts that needed torqued. I realized I didn't have my oil dipstick bracket attached to the valve cover. Then I remembered, it wasn’t attached because the new Katech valve covers don't have the threaded bolt hole for the bracket like the stock one does. I can't just push it over to the right valve cover bolt as it puts a lot of strain on it. It also 100% blocks the spark plug, and the plug wire from connecting. I reached out to Katech and waiting to hear back from them. But I might be making a bracket I guess. Hind sight, probably should stop progress where I'm at. As I decided to order a complete CAM kit and would like to get it installed now before the weather starts getting too nice! All for now. I’ll take better pics of the completed engine side later this weekend! Take Care!

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Timing is everything: Just received an email from Katech about the bracket. This has come to their attention by other customers. They have since made a bracket for this issue, but they do not include it in the with the valve cover kit. Here is the link:

https://katechengines.com/i-30498201...ve-covers.html