[Jhw_zl1]

Originally Posted by cwebster

There are too many unknowns for anyone to hazard a guess on why your numbers were low on a particular dyno on the day you ran. I'm sure you've read my post on "Other Factors Affecting Dyno Results". Obvious factors would be: break-in (mileage, type driving), fuel (octane, alcohol content), air temp, humidity, altitude (barometric pres), dyno (accuracy, CF & smoothing factors, tie-down load, operator skill)...

Is the motor fully broken in?
Double-check your fuel - maybe try a different gas station.
Check the forecasts and schedule your dyno run on a cooler, dryer day.
Ensure the dyno operator turns off all the nannies and uses an commonly accepted CF (SAE or STD).

If there are no fault codes or malfunctions you can point to, your dealer's service dept. won't be able to do much but you could call and ask.

You might consider checking reputation of other speed shops in the Atlanta area. I did a Google search [dynos in atlanta ga] and came up with a list of 5. Search around to see what other's say about these shops and bring it to one that's favored.

Without knowing more, that's all I can think of.

It has 200 miles on it I run 93 octane in it an drive it hard to brake it in sence iv got it it was 93 degrees out the day the dyno it I really do think the car is capable to pull higher numbers n I took it to the best place for Chevy MTI RACING had best reviews

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by Jhw_zl1

It has 200 miles on it I run 93 octane in it an drive it hard to brake it in sence iv got it it was 93 degrees out the day the dyno it I really do think the car is capable to pull higher numbers n I took it to the best place for Chevy MTI RACING had best reviews

I would not expect high dyno numbers at 200 miles, even driving hard. I think that's the main reason why your numbers are low right now - it's not broken in yet. The high temps probably played a role too.

If you're driving it hard, you should feel it start to "wake up" soon but don't expect anything close to full power 'til at least 800 to 1200 miles. You'll want to change the engine oil/filter and differential fluid every 400-500 miles during break-in. Inspect the first few ounces of oil and contents of filter for particles on 1st oil change. I waited 'til 600 and mine was slightly dark already. You may want to replace the OEM engine oil drain plug with a magnetic plug to capture any suspended or settled particles. Differential already has one. A small amount of fine particles is normal during break-in. If driving it hard and for racing, use engine oil that meets the Dexos 2 spec. I use Amsoil 5W-40 ESP European formula.

My sources for engine oil, filter, and diff lube.

If you're going to break it in hard, allow the engine to warm up to operating temp before you go WOT. Avoid engine braking (down-shifting with zero or low throttle). This will allow oil to get sucked passed the rings into the cylinders, slowing the break-in. Don't wind it out all the way to red-line either and no popping the clutch. When done accelerating through 3rd gear (5th or 6th in A10) at most (depending on where you're driving), clutch in and coast or brake to slow down (higher gear or N with brake for A10). Be sure to give it a chance to cool between sessions - at least 2-3 hrs after intense loading of the motor (8-12 high-power runs). When you're done with break-in, slowing from high speed is a good chance to finish "bedding" the brakes (see "brake burnishing" in owners manual pg 205). I began this after about 800 miles.

How you break-in your car is up to you, read-up on it and make your own choice. This is always a hot topic so you'll find fervent believers in both "slow-and-easy" and "fast-and-hard" methods. Use common sense and you should be okay. Protecting the drive train from excessive wear with more frequent oil changes will go a long way.

--Cal

[Jhw_zl1]

Originally Posted by cwebster

I would not expect high dyno numbers at 200 miles, even driving hard. I think that's the main reason why your numbers are low right now - it's not broken in yet. The high temps probably played a role too.

If you're driving it hard, you should feel it start to "wake up" soon but don't expect anything close to full power 'til at least 800 to 1200 miles. You'll want to change the engine oil/filter and differential fluid every 400-500 miles during break-in. Inspect the first few ounces of oil and contents of filter for particles on 1st oil change. I waited 'til 600 and mine was slightly dark already. You may want to replace the OEM engine oil drain plug with a magnetic plug to capture any suspended or settled particles. Differential already has one. A small amount of fine particles is normal during break-in. If driving it hard and for racing, use engine oil that meets the Dexos 2 spec. I use Amsoil 5W-40 ESP European formula.

My sources for engine oil, filter, and diff lube.

If you're going to break it in hard, allow the engine to warm up to operating temp before you go WOT. Avoid engine braking (down-shifting with zero or low throttle). This will allow oil to get sucked passed the rings into the cylinders, slowing the break-in. Don't wind it out all the way to red-line either and no popping the clutch. When done accelerating through 3rd gear (5th or 6th in A10) at most (depending on where you're driving), clutch in and coast or brake to slow down (higher gear or N with brake for A10). Be sure to give it a chance to cool between sessions - at least 2-3 hrs after intense loading of the motor (8-12 high-power runs). When you're done with break-in, slowing from high speed is a good chance to finish "bedding" the brakes (see "brake burnishing" in owners manual pg 205). I began this after about 800 miles.

How you break-in your car is up to you, read-up on it and make your own choice. This is always a hot topic so you'll find fervent believers in both "slow-and-easy" and "fast-and-hard" methods. Use common sense and you should be okay. Protecting the drive train from excessive wear with more frequent oil changes will go a long way.

--Cal

I I had them put a weapon X cold air intake upper pulley and Dyno tune and I gained 80 hp to the wheels and 90 pounds of torque

[cwebster]

Originally Posted by Jhw_zl1

I I had them put a weapon X cold air intake upper pulley and Dyno tune and I gained 80 hp to the wheels and 90 pounds of torque

Oh, wow! Okay, but the motor still isn't broken in yet if you're just in the low hundreds on your ODO. Although you've already voided the warranty with the dyno tune, I'd still take precautions so it breaks in properly.

Did you bring it back to the same shop? What kind of numbers are you seeing now?

[Jhw_zl1]

Originally Posted by cwebster

Oh, wow! Okay, but the motor still isn't broken in yet if you're just in the low hundreds on your ODO. Although you've already voided the warranty with the dyno tune, I'd still take precautions so it breaks in properly.

Did you bring it back to the same shop? What kind of numbers are you seeing now?

Yea same shop had it all done at once

[Rik]

Originally Posted by HyperBlueX2

That is what they chose...... they were looking for 2000 rpm at 45 mph to start the pull.... I am thinking it was to high.... Any other A10's chime in on what gear they used in their dyno pull?

My car runs very strong..... I know the numbers should be there.....

I will be having it properly dyno'ed in the next few months for some testing...... just figured it was there, what the heck.....

When my A10 was on the mustang dyno we used the flappy paddles in 6th/7th because the gearing on the box starting. 2500rpm and flat down until 150mph (dyno speed limit) which is nearly redline in 6th

[ZL1_Jay]

I have now seen 3 different ZL1'S put down 600+ to the wheels. Hoping to have mine dynoed mid june

[Jhw_zl1]

Originally Posted by Jhw_zl1

Yea same shop had it all done at once

Come to find out they didn't have the proper tuning for the new a10 have to bring it back to have it re dyno so might pick up more then be for is what I'm hopping

[Zach495]

Mine was crap, 505 torque, not a happy camper

[HyperBlueX2]

Stock run on a non-portable dyno. Better numbers than before.....

[Zeke.Malvo]

Originally Posted by HyperBlueX2

Stock run on a non-portable dyno. Better numbers than before.....

STP correction factor reads higher than SAE.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[ZL1_Jay]

Mine put down 575whp on a mustang dyno in 90° heat.

[zl1_tommy]

I posted my bone stock dyno in mid November, '16.

[PinHead]

Originally Posted by cwebster

Has anyone else run their new 6th Gen ZL1 on a dyno? I'd like to see what others are getting and whether there's a difference at the rear wheels between the A10 and M6.

Here's mine:

Car: 2017 Camaro ZL1 M6
Mods: none (factory everything)
Odometer: 2432

Max Power: 582.01 RWHP
Max Torque: 574.38 Ft Lbs
National Speed Inc Facebook Video

Ambient Air Temp: 92.83 F
Barometric Pressure: 29.83 in-Hg
Humidity: 10%

See dyno graph at the bottom of this post.

Drove down to Wilmington NC to get a baseline dyno run at National Speed Inc. They are the closest speed shop that uses a DynoJet dynamometer. I'd also heard that they are very thorough and have one of the best tuners in Eastern NC.

They use the newer DynoJet 424 dynamometer with the latest WinPep software. They adjust for ambient air temp, barometric pressure, humidity and other factors to ensure an accurate reading.

The first run had some wheel spin, even after spraying a high-traction compound on the tires. This beast has so much torque on the low end and is very light in the rear that it's tough to get grip even on the huge 24 in. metal drums. Simple solution was to have one of the beefier employees to sit in the open trunk.

Their tuners, mechanics, project planners, and staff are all very knowledgeable and friendly. They took me on a tour of their facility and I was impressed. It's definitely a state-of-the-art facility. They're currently working on everything from TT Nissans to a Corvette ZR1. One of their project planners was happy to answer all my questions about their dyno and give me a lot of background info on how they use it to tune power upgrades.

--Cal

[UPDATE 20170513]

Running Tally

I've added a running tally of dyno results that have come to my attention for fully stock 6th Gen ZL1s. I took my search results from Post #18 and updated them with member feedback. If I find more in additional searches, I'll add them to the list.

RWHP & Torque  Dyno Type  CF  Smoothing  Mileage Trans Name

582 HP 574 TQ  DynoJet    STD 0          2200    M6    cwebster
500 HP 499 TQ  Mustang    SAE ?          1500    A10    Rik
530 HP ??? TQ  DynoJet    ??? ?          ?       A10   NicD
545 HP ??? TQ  DynoJet    ??? ?          ?       M6    NicD
564 HP 535 TQ  DynoJet    ??? ?          300     M6    Jinkz
521 HP 515 TQ  Dynocom    SAE ?          300     M6    TheElementalCashew
546 HP 532 TQ  DynoJet    ??? ?          ?       M6    ZL1 Tommy
567 HP 570 TQ  DynoJet    STD 5          ?       M6    Hennessey Performance
570 HP 545 TQ  DynoJet    SAE 5          ?       M6    Sharp Shifter
540 HP 548 TQ  DynoJet    SAE 5          ?       A10   ATI Performance Products Inc
519 HP 451 TQ  DynoJet    SAE 5          2600    A10   HyperBlueX2

Thanks Cal,

What type of Fuel and Octane rating where you running>