[Scargoes]

Originally Posted by MatthewAMEL

I have the eLSD tune also.


The two things that helped me the most are the .125 rear toe and the solid rear cradle bushings.


I have noticed a big difference in feel/performance at AutoX and Track on corner exit with those two changes.

I have the cradle bushings too, just not installed yet. I have the SPL rear toe arms and with the hex profile on the center bar it will make at track adjustments easy. My next alignment I will set a bit more static toe in and then check what adjustment a flat(1/6th turn) does either way.

[DaveC113]

Originally Posted by VR Baron

And whose cradle bushings?

I think the main choices are the GMPP ZLE bushings, which are aluminum, or the BME Delrin bushings.

I got the ZLE bushings, there are a few threads here on the install, which is a PITA but not that bad if you have the right tools to remove and install the bushings. The install is permanent and it says it will invalidate warranty, but I figure if I paint them black before I bring the car in nobody will notice.

Price was about $425, I think it was worth it but I'm not sure it's doing the same thing as the ediff tune, ime the tune and bushings solve completely different issues.

Both are more subtle improvements overall, the car is still great stock. To me, bushings improved the overall feel of the rear end of the car, plus more info gets to your butt. You can feel the surface texture of the road better, lol... In some circumstances you can feel the rear subframe bushing flex, this totally eliminates it.

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by DaveC113

I think the main choices are the GMPP ZLE bushings, which are aluminum, or the BME Delrin bushings.

I got the ZLE bushings, there are a few threads here on the install, which is a PITA but not that bad if you have the right tools to remove and install the bushings. The install is permanent and it says it will invalidate warranty, but I figure if I paint them black before I bring the car in nobody will notice.

Price was about $425, I think it was worth it but I'm not sure it's doing the same thing as the ediff tune, ime the tune and bushings solve completely different issues.

Both are more subtle improvements overall, the car is still great stock. To me, bushings improved the overall feel of the rear end of the car, plus more info gets to your butt. You can feel the surface texture of the road better, lol... In some circumstances you can feel the rear subframe bushing flex, this totally eliminates it.

Cool. I had poly solid bushings on the fifth gen. Instead of a slight step out in slaloms the rear stayed put.

[Cjw]

Dropping the car off tomorrow to get the apex wheels put on, 315/335. Zle. Can anyone share a autocross alignment? I’m at -2.7 and -2 front and rear. Going to see if they can get -3 at least front. What are some toe specs, I do think I will toe out the front a touch, but how much do you guys recommend. Car only will get 4000ish miles a year so front wear isn’t a big deal to me. This is the first autocross car I’ve had with any real adjustment. What’s everybody running on rear toe?
Thank you

[rotis]

Autocross alignment for a ZL1 1LE? Absolute max camber in front, should be around -3.7. Somewhere around -1.8 to -2.0 rear.

I run zero toe in front, only 1/16" total toe-in rear. That's mostly preference.

[Vtor_ZL1]

Running some toe out right now [vs print out shown], but I will freely admit I dont know what I am doing


Toe out does seem to turn in better than track alignment guide which has toe in.


Should schedule some rack time to see where its settled after a year of events.

[Cjw]

Originally Posted by rotis

Autocross alignment for a ZL1 1LE? Absolute max camber in front, should be around -3.7. Somewhere around -1.8 to -2.0 rear.

I run zero toe in front, only 1/16" total toe-in rear. That's mostly preference.

That’s what I thought was max, my local shop can only get -2.7, the top hat has been adjusted but they’re saying that’s all it’s got, I’ll have to do some more research and find a printout for them to get some more. Thanks for the info

[Vtor_ZL1]

odd.. max without rotating top hat was -2 +/-.. when you rotate top ( remove brass pin), you can go way into deep -3 on ZLE.

[Cjw]

Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1

odd.. max without rotating top hat was -2 +/-.. when you rotate top ( remove brass pin), you can go way into deep -3 on ZLE.

I’m going to do some research, and go up on a weekend to show, I work across the street so I drop off and pick up, but I’ll have to stay there and show them
Did get my apex wheels in, 315/30/18 335/30/18 stock sizes

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by Cjw

That’s what I thought was max, my local shop can only get -2.7, the top hat has been adjusted but they’re saying that’s all it’s got, I’ll have to do some more research and find a printout for them to get some more. Thanks for the info

An SS 1LE or regular ZL1 without the flippable camber plates can get -2.7. Mine did. As others have said, a ZLE should be able to go way past that. Maybe they don't know about the adjustment at the union between the strut and knuckle?

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by Scargoes

I have the alternate eLSD tune and I still get this problem with the nannys off. I am currently at 0.12* total toe in in the rear. I used to be at 0.10* and it was worse. I will be trying more rear toe before the next event.

As for tires, the do help. But in my experience, even the RT660 lack forward bite. Of the tires I have used, the rivals(when warm) and the CR-1s have been the two with the best bite out of a corner.

With nannies off, we’re you using sport or track mode?

[Scargoes]

Originally Posted by VR Baron

With nannies off, we’re you using sport or track mode?

Everything disabled. I run in track mode but over ride options in the infotainment screen. Steering is always on Tour, Exhaust in Track, Suspension in either Sport or Track depending on surface conditions and temperature(ambient and surface). But if it's wet I run suspension in Tour.

[VR Baron]

Originally Posted by Scargoes

Everything disabled. I run in track mode but over ride options in the infotainment screen. Steering is always on Tour, Exhaust in Track, Suspension in either Sport or Track depending on surface conditions and temperature(ambient and surface). But if it's wet I run suspension in Tour.

Cool. I asked because I thought maybe with throttle in the more lazy track setting
Might help with the corner exit oversteer by being not so quick as sport is. I guess not as you still get the oversteer, even with the EDiff tune. I would leave the rest as you do. Our low grip worn out lot needs sport on suspension.

[apexit53]

Video of my left and right sides at this years Toledo pro. Only ever done three pros in my life as pros aren't my focus but it is fun. Need to work on my launches.

Car wasn't 100%. I could tell my first few runs the handling was way way off, understeer into massive over steer. something was up. got the car back to paddock lacked it up, and bingo, BMR bushing blow out. Bushing would not stay in place, no place locally had the right size I could make do and mend but to I had to deal with the clunking and inconstancy feeling.

The car was sooo wayward and inconsistent but I was able to calm it down and come home in second.