[CalgaryZL1]

Yes, it was either over Torqued or the guy went for lunch just before he finished the job and forgot half the shit he was supposed to do after lunch

[SomeGeoffGuy]

I would just dispute the charge on the credit card. For reason, tell them "Work not completed as agreed". My card lets me do it online, I don't even have to talk to anyone.

-Geoff

[Need4Camaro]

Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy

I would just dispute the charge on the credit card. For reason, tell them "Work not completed as agreed". My card lets me do it online, I don't even have to talk to anyone.

-Geoff

Problem is that won't cover the cost of the new wheel, caliper, rotors/pads, cerecoating, then re-installation. I spent alot of money in parts for this.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by N Camarolina

Can you confirm that you track yours several times a year? Blue Threadlocker is not rated (anywhere close) for the levels of heat involved with tracking.

I am aware that the ss 1le calls for red thread locker but I’m 99% sure the standard 4 pot SS brakes call for blue threadlocker and that car is also rated and covered for track use by GM. Actually I’m 100% sure that blue thread locker is used because I ordered new bolts from GM and they came with blue thread locker on them. I think the bolts are different so they call for different thread locker colors.

[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy

I would just dispute the charge on the credit card. For reason, tell them "Work not completed as agreed". My card lets me do it online, I don't even have to talk to anyone.

-Geoff

This is your best course of action. It sucks what happened to you but you’re gonna lose more money if you decide to get lawyers involved. I would dispute the charge, use the money you get back towards a new caliper and wheel. Also do you really want a shop that can’t do a simple brake job to touch your car again? I’m positive they didn’t torque to spec because these bolts don’t just back themselves out especially since you said you provided new bolts (you’re technically not supposed to reuse the old bolts since they are tty)

[Need4Camaro]

Originally Posted by m6-lt1

This is your best course of action. It sucks what happened to you but you’re gonna lose more money if you decide to get lawyers involved. I would dispute the charge, use the money you get back towards a new caliper and wheel. Also do you really want a shop that can’t do a simple brake job to touch your car again? I’m positive they didn’t torque to spec because these bolts don’t just back themselves out especially since you said you provided new bolts (you’re technically not supposed to reuse the old bolts since they are tty)

Yeah you're probably right. I am just very pissed off at this. I ended up leaving them a review.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by dpevans

If you use Red Threadlocker be cautious on which one you get some require heat to remove. I personally have always used the blue and have never had an issue.

Use of heat depends on the final torque. GM calls out high temp high strength threadlocker for the caliper bolts. Permatex 27200 and there is no need for heat for removal.

OP, you could ask them what torque spec/procedure they used.

[Need4Camaro]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Use of heat depends on the final torque. GM calls out high temp high strength threadlocker for the caliper bolts. Permatex 27200 and there is no need for heat for removal.

OP, you could ask them what torque spec/procedure they used.

I probably could but I went ahead and left them a bad review so I doubt they're going to want to have friendly talk any longer. I either have to sue or go for them via my credit card at this point.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by Need4Camaro

What do you feel about what the shop is saying? The shop is swearing that he torqued them down and also used locktite. I of course, have no way of truly confirming this but I do know brake calipers don't normally just work themselves loose.

Since you said they were on for one month, I think the bolt that came loose was only hand tight. You could see how hard it is to remove the other and if it had loctite, which I doubt. One month old red loctite should still have a visible pink tinge on the threads.

[dpevans]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Use of heat depends on the final torque. GM calls out high temp high strength threadlocker for the caliper bolts. Permatex 27200 and there is no need for heat for removal.

OP, you could ask them what torque spec/procedure they used.

I don't disagree, the point I was trying to make is don't walk into the parts store and buy any red thread locker or you could have a nasty surprise cause some do require heat to remove. I ran the blue on my 2LT and would get the calipers so hot I had to rebuild them that's when I decided to buy up to the 1LE instead of spending the money on upgrades. I just got it but whatever thread locker product they tell us to use thats what I will get. I don't even see any reason to remove the calipers until I need to replace the rotor disc and it should last more than one season for no more than I track.

[Eric10905]

OP, dang, sorry to hear about this and glad you were not hurt or worse. A caliper coming off I think could have ended much worse than a lot of out of pocket $. Not much help for your pocket book i realize....
As a fellow Austinite, I didn't know Gumby, but... I do now. Will make sure I steer clear of them and advise others of what you experienced.
I can not imagine a bolt coming out that was torqued, with or without any loctite. I hope you can at least get your original cost back on CC, and best wishes on getting it all fixed.

[AZIROC]

I had this happen to my 2002 avalanche after I did the brakes/pads. For about a week after it I drove to and from work and no issues (about 300 miles) following week I was almost at work and barely touched the brakes and heard am awesome grinding noise. let off the brakes and barely touched them again...noise got alittle louder. Threw the truck from drive to 2nd and slowed down to about 15 and tried the brakes again. Got down to maybe 5 mph and the psg rear tire locked up. Thankfully i was all the way over but unfortunately it rubbed all the way through the inside of the rim and the tire went flat. $150 tow bill + $50 for a new wheel and $25 to get the old tire put on the new wheel, I was back on business. Ever since then, blue loctite and a torque wrench is used.

[65ffr]

Take them to small claims court. No lawyer needed.

[Rogueleader_92]

Good luck on a law suit, your chances of success are state specific (so asking random people on the internet is useless, maybe try a free consultation with a lawyer). Michigan had a case where a tire shop failed to torque the lug nuts and the wheel came off causing a crash. When taken to court it was appealed up to the state supreme court and they chose to read the statute as if the work had been started then it had been "completed" so the shop won.