[Mark R]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

Oil will suspend contaminates immediately after you change it. So you don't drive the car AT ALL?

Pretty simple. Conclusion: If you want to know if you're passing dirt into your engine, do an oil sample and see for yourself. Paper or oiled cotton will not matter if you're not driving your car in the sand dunes or off-road.

I don't need to worry about that. My car is stock. I have full confidence the stock air filter is the best for my car. My 2018 has 18K miles on it, so I do drive it a bit, sometimes through sand storms.

I live in a very dusty environment, so air filtration is very important to me for engines, etc.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by Mark R

I don't need to worry about that. My car is stock. I have full confidence the stock air filter is the best for my car. My 2018 has 18K miles on it, so I do drive it a bit, sometimes through sand storms.

I live in a very dusty environment, so air filtration is very important to me for engines, etc.

Then this discussion is not for you then. If your car is stock and you plan to keep it stock, you're just fine with the stock filter. For those that make more HP than stock, its important for them to know that the stock paper filter becomes a restriction at some point and a higher flowing oiled cotton filter is a good solution without any negative impact assuming their ZL1s aren't being driven off-road or across the sand dunes.

[Chris357]

Originally Posted by hawk02

I've said this many times. The stock air box with a green filter and the rain/snow blocker removed from behind the upper grill and driver's side headlight is the best "Bang for the Buck" intake mod out there.

Agree, I have a green filter already. Interested in an intake elbow that won't have a tendency to collapse under vacuum as I increase power levels. Elite carbon is pricey but it has a filter with a big surface area and it is isolated from engine compartment heat.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

So, speaking of "using" a stock air box on a Yenko. I ran across this video reviewing some facts behind using a stock air box/air intake vs a roto-fab. The reason this came up, it was pointed out to me from my data log that my MAT is running around 153° to 157° (166°). I originally had the Elite Carbon Fiber air intake that had a closed box. But the carbon fiber tube/elbow was not aligning with the throttle body as required and it caused the air intake tube at the air box to slight gap open. This was because I had an adapter required to mount my 100mm TB. So I went with the Rot-Fab. Not sure if I should try testing this by go back to stock airbox air intake and do a data log to see if there is any difference. But I think my current tune would be off since it's tuned for a big gulp.

It will make some sense for me to port the blower and the I can lose the adapter and then go with any air intake/airbox at that point. What a domino !!!

Interesting video, however most people don't road race which I would agree might be better with a closed filter stock system. I don't look at the road race info, I look at my data logs with the Rotofab that I have now and have had in the past. My intake temps even on a 90 degree day are only about 125 with my 2300 going thru the traps, an 80 degree day around 115, 70s 105 or so and I've seen IATs below 100 degrees when in the 60s. I can go out and log on the street on a 85 degree day and never see IATs over 115. The RotoFab may be best for drag racing and the street but not as appropriate for track racing. I'll stick with what I know works for me and its awesome we have options for everyday street, drag or road racing. Take your pick as something will work for you also.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by Chris357

Noticed this on FB today. SVE's 1150hp Yenko package uses the stock airbox with some kind of aftermarket elbow. Assuming that's a 103mm TB on there from the looks of it.

Does anybody know anything about the elbows they're using and if they are modifying the airbox in any way?

Its telling, however, that they aren't slapping on a full aftermarket CAI.

I'm not a Whipple guy and have been affiliated with Magnuson since 2010 when I got my first 2300 for my G8GT. I've had 2 2300s for my Camaro's and a 2650 so you can see my love of the Maggies.I also worked for Magnuson for 3 years so I might be a little partial. However, that 3.0 is going to be a stellar competitor for the 2650 and it really is a good looking blower. In my opinion better looking than the 2650. But, we'll see if down the line it can really compete at the track with the 2650. It should, but we'll see when the numbers come in on the fast Gen6 fast 20. There are 3 turbos at the top, one of those is an LS, 3 Maggie 2650, then 3 more turbos, 2650, ported Lt4, Maggie, couple more Lt4s, some ProChargers, no Ebrocks or Whipples. This 3.0 has a chance to maybe make the top 20 with the right added mods and chassis setup, hope it does cause it sure is fast sitting on the 5.0 Stangs.

[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by hawk02

My experience with the Cold Air Inductions Carbon Elite intake wasn't very positive.

One corner of the intake box sat up too high and rubbed on the inside of the hood when it closed. During attempts to get the box to sit correctly, several pegs on the underside of the box that fit in the grommets on the engine bay frame broke off. The pegs are only held in place by the carbon fiber coating surrounding the box.

The first time this happened I sent the box back to Cold Air Inductions and they glued the pegs back on. Trying to seat the repaired box the pegs broke off again. The third time I tried to glue the pegs back on only to have them break off again.

Frustrated, I contacted Summit Racing and they allowed me to return the intake a full refund.

Just be careful when you seat the box in the grommets. The pegs are easy to break off. For an intake costing that much, the pegs should be secured to the box with screws or something stronger than the carbon fiber coating in my opinion.

Mine fits perfect. It was a very easy install from top to bottom. Zero interference Problems, fits as well as the stock air box because it basically is just with carbon fiber.

[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by Chris357

Agree, I have a green filter already. Interested in an intake elbow that won't have a tendency to collapse under vacuum as I increase power levels. Elite carbon is pricey but it has a filter with a big surface area and it is isolated from engine compartment heat.

BINGO!

[RamAir02]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

I agree here, lab studies often create a worst case scenario which is not often the same as real world. I stand by what I said, if your car is driven on the street, oiled cotton is "good enough". I won't argue that it may be 1% less effective than a paper filter, but does that really translate to anything meaningful long term? Based on anecdotal evidence from real world users, it makes no difference at all. Based on my own oil samples, it makes no difference at all. I've also stated repeatedly if the car is stock there's no need to replace the OEM paper filter with an oiled cotton filter unless you just want a lifetime filter. However, when you start modifying your vehicle, there is a point where a paper filter becomes a restriction compared to an oiled cotton filter and that's when one should be considered because its unlikely you've find a larger capacity paper filter to flow more air. All of these companies making oiled cotton filters are still in business today after decades, not because of marketing, but because they do the job they were designed to do.

This is a silly argument. I'm not sure why I'm getting involved...

But the quoted post from Z OH 6 seems to hit on the crux of the debate. The stock paper filter may filter out more contaminants in a lab environment (and real world too), but the cotton filter is designed to flow more air. Does that mean it also allows in more contaminants? Well, likely yes! Is that ok? All signs point to yes. I've had cotton filters on all of my cars with no issues. All of my cars have been either drag raced, autoX'd or ran on a road course.

Everything is a tradeoff, a compromise. Want more air for more HP? Probably need to accept a few more contaminants. Want less contaminants? Probably need to sacrifice a few ponies.

[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by Chris357

I'm considering that intake. I see you have a catch can, which is one of my questions. Where do you put the PCV fitting that would normally plumb into the intake elbow (assuming you don't want to drill the carbon fiber)?

My first clean line tee’s into the throttlebody with a non-destructive quick disconnect T fitting for non-wide-open vacuum, the second one tee’s into the intake tube (ZL1 basically has a catch can of sorts that has a vacuum line hooked up to the intake tube already so the elite already has it incorporated in their intake tube) with the non-destructive T fitting as a secondary vacuum for wide-open throttle. Thanks to Garage kings in Toronto I didn’t have to modify any vacuum lines on the car, He was able to supply me these quick connect fittings for my install. And with the LT4 the Pcv valve underneath the supercharger is replaced with a bypass to divert it into the can instead of straight into the supercharger

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by RamAir02

This is a silly argument. I'm not sure why I'm getting involved...

But the quoted post from Z OH 6 seems to hit on the crux of the debate. The stock paper filter may filter out more contaminants in a lab environment (and real world too), but the cotton filter is designed to flow more air. Does that mean it also allows in more contaminants? Well, likely yes! Is that ok? All signs point to yes. I've had cotton filters on all of my cars with no issues. All of my cars have been either drag raced, autoX'd or ran on a road course.

Everything is a tradeoff, a compromise. Want more air for more HP? Probably need to accept a few more contaminants. Want less contaminants? Probably need to sacrifice a few ponies.

And ponies vary a lot depending on the power level. At 750hp, it may only be 10hp, at 1500hp, it can be 20-30hp. That's why most pure drag cars don't run a filter at all because they would give up too much power running a filter.

[Chris357]

Originally Posted by CalgaryZL1

My first clean line tee’s into the throttlebody with a non-destructive quick disconnect T fitting for non-wide-open vacuum, the second one tee’s into the intake tube (ZL1 basically has a catch can of sorts that has a vacuum line hooked up to the intake tube already so elite engineering already has it incorporated in their intake tube) with the non-destructive T fitting as a secondary vacuum for wide-open throttle. Thanks to Garage kings in Toronto I didn’t have to modify any vacuum lines on the car, He was able to supply me these quick connect fittings for my install. And with the LT4 the Pcv valve underneath the supercharger is replaced with a bypass to divert it into the can instead of straight into the supercharger

Perfect! I found another thread where Elite supposedly said not to T off that fitting but no reason was given. How do I get in touch with garage kings?

[Kamero6]

This is a typical case of survivor bias.

The fact that 1st of 2nd owners of a car don't see any issues with a bad air filter before selling it at 30k miles, doesn't mean the engine didn't get dust and sand that shortened it's life.

Also, if you never change the oil, and sell the car with 20k miles, you most probably won't see any issues with it.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by Kamero6

This is a typical case of survivor bias.

The fact that 1st of 2nd owners of a car don't see any issues with a bad air filter before selling it at 30k miles, doesn't mean the engine didn't get dust and sand that shortened it's life.

Also, if you never change the oil, and sell the car with 20k miles, you most probably won't see any issues with it.

The sky is falling!

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by Chris357

Perfect! I found another thread where Elite supposedly said not to T off that fitting but no reason was given. How do I get in touch with garage kings?

I bought the Tee fitting he sells and WOW! I was glad I didn't have to cut my factory lines! His email is on his YouTube page [About]

https://www.youtube.com/@GarageKing/about

Just email him and he'll send you instructions on how to purchase tee fitting.