[Stephen12ZL1]

I have the kit sitting in my living room and the brackets which appear flimsy are not flimsy at all so don't worry about that.

[Whitespeed]

Originally Posted by Stephen12ZL1

I have the kit sitting in my living room and the brackets which appear flimsy are not flimsy at all so don't worry about that.

More good info! Thanks

Nigel

[carguy55]

smoke test video of before and after posted on the 1LE R FB page

https://www.facebook.com/groups/137335333719878/

[driverxdeutsch]

Has anyone installed this on the standard SS 4 piston brembo brakes? My only concern is rotor clearance on the smaller one piece rotors. I've got a V6 1LE that is 95% the same as the SS, just with a slightly smaller outer diameter rotor and a caliper that's set in a bit to match.

I'm so tempted to just order the kit and test the fitment. At worst I'll just have to cut of some of the backing plate to make it work...

[TheRealJA105]

Originally Posted by carguy55

smoke test video of before and after posted on the 1LE R FB page

https://www.facebook.com/groups/137335333719878/

Smoke test looks good, now for temperature testing

[Move_Over]

I'm confused on why people are dying to see testing results. Brake ducts have been proven effective for a long, long time. Go walk around the paddock of any race, you'll see brake ducts of all different shapes and sizes.

Or, think of it like this.
Walk into a room set to 70 degrees, you'll feel cool - think of this like the OEM duct, the air is getting to the wheel well, but escaping before it gets to the rotor. Now go stand in front of the AC vent, you'll feel the air blowing directly on you, making you much cooler - think of this like the ducting to the rotor; the air is getting directly to the rotor cooling it down further than the factory vent.

I think we are overthinking this temp testing thing. Any real, direct duct is better than what we currently have.

[TheRealJA105]

Yes, I agree just like i stated before. Maybe it's just the engineer in me but I want the data to know how much better it cools vs the SS track deflectors to get a $/degree ratio and determine if the value is worth it to me. When I had my Hellcat i was dying for a kit like this because it had no brake cooling and I was going to piece together my own, but I traded it for the better car instead which has pretty good cooling with the track deflectors. Honestly if you want maximum cooling it looks like you could cut the top off of the track deflectors and install this kit so you would get the direct air to the center of the rotor and still pull additional air from under the car with the track deflector.

[x_jarhead]

I did my first test day at Buttonwillow last Friday. Temps were about 50F. According to my FLIR the rotors were 800-900F and calipers were 500-600F using Hawk DTC-70 pads and Motul RBF-660 fluid. This is not a track regarded as hard on brakes. My sessions were quite long, averaging close to an hour - or 1 tank of gas. This was on stock SC3 (non-R) tires.

I ordered a set of these ducts and may install them in time for an event At Thunderhill on Saturday. Summer temps and stickier tires will surely put more heat into the system. I will likely tape over the ducts during cold weather to ensure the pads get up to temp for the shorter sessions this weekend. Later this spring I should be able to provide with/without data regarding their performance. But, as others have said they should provide a significant reduction in rotor temps. I’ve run ducts like this on many race cars in the past and in every case the difference was dramatic.

Does anyone know how much of the front end I have to disassemble to install these?


Ren

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by x_jarhead

I did my first test day at Buttonwillow last Friday. Temps were about 50F. According to my FLIR the rotors were 800-900F and calipers were 500-600F using Hawk DTC-70 pads and Motul RBF-660 fluid. This is not a track regarded as hard on brakes. My sessions were quite long, averaging close to an hour - or 1 tank of gas. This was on stock SC3 (non-R) tires.

I ordered a set of these ducts and may install them in time for an event At Thunderhill on Saturday. Summer temps and stickier tires will surely put more heat into the system. I will likely tape over the ducts during cold weather to ensure the pads get up to temp for the shorter sessions this weekend. Later this spring I should be able to provide with/without data regarding their performance. But, as others have said they should provide a significant reduction in rotor temps. I’ve run ducts like this on many race cars in the past and in every case the difference was dramatic.

Does anyone know how much of the front end I have to disassemble to install these?


Ren

Great to have a baseline. The install is not terribly difficult but a little tedious getting the fender liner over the duct and everything placed at once. You will need to remove the caliper and rotor. Then remove all the t15 bolts holding the front fender liner in. Took me about an hour for the first side and 20-30 for the second side.

[carguy55]

instructions are here

https://www.facebook.com/groups/2236...98638600861115

[ScaryFatKidGT]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

I roasted the calipers on my old SS 1LE. All the rubber seals melted and the calipers changed colors. Cooling the brakes was always an issue. Hasn't been as big of an issue on the ZLE, but I have yet to run race pads.

That doesn't sound fun... always wondered why they didn't just use the ZL1 brakes....

Originally Posted by Move_Over

I'm confused on why people are dying to see testing results. Brake ducts have been proven effective for a long, long time. Go walk around the paddock of any race, you'll see brake ducts of all different shapes and sizes.

Or, think of it like this.
Walk into a room set to 70 degrees, you'll feel cool - think of this like the OEM duct, the air is getting to the wheel well, but escaping before it gets to the rotor. Now go stand in front of the AC vent, you'll feel the air blowing directly on you, making you much cooler - think of this like the ducting to the rotor; the air is getting directly to the rotor cooling it down further than the factory vent.

I think we are overthinking this temp testing thing. Any real, direct duct is better than what we currently have.

I think it's just people wanting to know how well it works, especially when there is already some sort of system in place. you are just blowing air against the flat inside of the rotor.

[thescreensavers]

^ this product could very well be worse than OEM, since there is no information to disprove that, It could be true.

I'm still waiting on the data they said, they will be obtaining to prove this point otherwise.

[Move_Over]

Originally Posted by thescreensavers

^ this product could very well be worse than OEM, since there is no information to disprove that, It could be true.

I'm still waiting on the data they said, they will be obtaining to prove this point otherwise.

GarageTherapy has one of my thermal imagers for a few days and will be doing some data collection at VIR this week.

[RUQWIKR]

Originally Posted by Move_Over

GarageTherapy has one of my thermal imagers for a few days and will be doing some data collection at VIR this week.

Ask them why they necked the 3D-printed duct adapters down 15% vs. the cross-section of the stock duct outlet. No thanks. Their design may help more than stock with the concentration of cooling air, but, I’ll go a different design route if I do something similar.