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#57 |
![]() Drives: 2016 2LT RS V6 A8 BVM/Kala NPP Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Torrance
Posts: 55
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Thanks BrianL and TigerCamaro. TigerCamaro, any problems with placing the sensor on the Sto N Show plate? Looks like I have to calibrate it without the plate first for distance and then for height, then put the plate back on. Brian L. Since it connects to the terminals under the hood, I am wondering if I can just pull the speaker wire inside the cabin and leave the controller securely fastened under the hood somewhere. I saw that in a few install photos. Thanks for your replies.
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#58 |
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Retired from Car mfrs....
Drives: 2LT RS/HR-V Join Date: May 2013
Location: /Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 10,044
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controller box can stay underthe hood. No problems w heat. And as far as making it more elegant than using the doorjamb, you could drill the firewall. Personally I think that's too much hassle
Little things like the fuse are really good indicator that this is a generic kit, and take some common sense and or experience to install. It's why when I get PMs on this and a person doesn't have any idea what that fuse is and what to do with it, I suggest you go to a stereo installer who can look at this whole thing in about 30 seconds and see what to do. It's definitely a kit for people who understand splicing, heat shrink, mods and the like.
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Last edited by Glen e; 09-12-2016 at 02:38 PM. |
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#59 |
![]() Drives: 2016 2LT RS V6 A8 BVM/Kala NPP Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Torrance
Posts: 55
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Thanks. Got the info I needed from Brian. what's confusing people is the PFYC or YouTube video saying that the fused connection was specifically modified for Camaro's, not a universal kit, and that you have to select Camaro when ordering their kit. At least that's what confused me.
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#60 | |
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Retired from Car mfrs....
Drives: 2LT RS/HR-V Join Date: May 2013
Location: /Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 10,044
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#61 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2016 2SS, Red Hot, NPP, Nav, M6 Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Eagle Creek OR
Posts: 783
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I also ordered the Camaro specific kit. but it actually was generic like Glen describes. Cutting the fused terminal off & splicing the included fused wire, plus adding a properly sized "ring" style terminal is no big deal if you have the parts & tools available (I did). Personally I don't like to crimp the splices as I have had some fail in time, so I solder them & put shrink wrap around the solder joint.
I had more trouble finding a place to run the wires up from where the sensor is mounted & through the engine with the closed body pan we have. There are a few small holes up near the splitter, but the wire has to snake around a structure before it clears. Once it did, I was able to fish it from up top & pull it through. I'm not keen on drilling another hole in the firewall, so will leave the wires as is. But it does bother me some (looks unprofessional to me with the bare wires visible in the door jamb). I'll continue to think on that one... I also have the sto & show front plate & calibrated with it on. My thought is I didn't want to calibrate it with it off & have the plate interfere with the "beam" when the plate was on (as it normally is). No problems with the calibration so far. |
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#62 |
![]() Drives: 2016 2LT RS V6 A8 BVM/Kala NPP Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Torrance
Posts: 55
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Thanks BrianL. Little ticked off at PFYC and its advertising claim it was specially modified for 2010-2016 Camaro. Great idea about soldering the ring connector to the fused wire and to the controller wire. Trying to locate a good place for the controller under the hood, Glen e thought that should be fine. That way, the only wire coming through would be the speaker wire. None of the nuts I have fit the open positive terminal post next to the fuse box. These small things drive me nuts! Also, thanks for the suggestion about the Sto n Sho calibration.
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#63 |
![]() ![]() Drives: '17 SS 50th Camaro Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 921
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Where are you guys with splitters mounting the sensor at? I assume the splitter hangs down too far to allow the sensor to be taped to one of the body panels.
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2017 50th Anniversary 2LT\RS - #1583 SOLD
2017 50th Anniversary 2SS - #3410 Last edited by Billabongi; 09-13-2016 at 02:49 PM. Reason: Nevermind Saw Glen E's post about the splitter being fine. |
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#64 | |
![]() Drives: 2SS, Mosaic Black, Ordered Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Southern NJ
Posts: 337
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Quote:
I put both the controller and the speaker inside the car, under the glovebox. There is a flat spot under the glovebox that both items can stick to. I may need to attach them with a screw because the controller became unstuck. As for mounting on the sto n show, the flat mounting plate is perfect to stick the sensor. Just make sure you use something small, like a 4x4 to aim to see the low curbs. Also, like others have said, pull up to the curb slowly and stop as soon as it beeps. I was surprised how far the car moved if I didn't stop right away.
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2SS, Mosiac Black, Adrenaline Red, A8, MRC, NPP, Sunroof, Nav, Silver split spoke
Ordered 12/28/15 1100 1/11/16 2000 1/26/16 2500 1/27/16 3000 1/28/16 3300 1/29/16 TPW 2/15/16 3400 2/4/16 3800 2/15-16 BUILT!!! 4300 2/17 4200 2/23 4800 2/26 6000 3/5/16!!! 2015 Silverado LTZ 2011 Escalade 2006 Honda Accord 1988 IROC Z Camaro (sort of dead) |
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#65 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2016 2SS, Red Hot, NPP, Nav, M6 Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Eagle Creek OR
Posts: 783
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I mounted the sensor on the Sto n show mounting plate flat section also using the as supplied adhesive & cleaner. No problem with the license plate interfering & with calibration. I set mine to not beep with anything smaller then 4" & should with anything taller at 20" from the sensor measures on my garage floor & using various boxes for size.
I mounted my control box & speaker like TigerCamaro mentioned. I haven't yet had it come off, but I too would feel better about using a screwed in solution as some day it will likely fail. I am thinking of doing that to the sensor as well. I'll get to them both some day I'm sure. |
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#66 |
![]() Drives: Hyper Blue SS Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: East Side
Posts: 1
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I ran the wires through the rubber plug in the door jam. I put speaker under glove box and hid controller behind carpet. In hindsight could have made it a little cleaner.
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#67 | |
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Retired from Car mfrs....
Drives: 2LT RS/HR-V Join Date: May 2013
Location: /Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 10,044
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#68 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2016 2SS, Red Hot, NPP, Nav, M6 Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Eagle Creek OR
Posts: 783
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Whity1- that looks pretty good going in through that plug for the wires. I like it.
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#69 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 50th Anniversary 2SS Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 930
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Hey guys. Bumping this thread back up. You guys still happy with this product and do you completely trust it when approaching curbs? Looking into adding this to my to-do list soon.
Thanks!
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Former Ride: 17 Camaro 2SS, M6 - Fifty | Procharger P1SC | 3.7 Pulley | Stage 2 IC | Race Bypass | DSX FF Kit | JRE Custom E85 Flex Fuel Tune | LT4 Fuel System | JMS Voltage Booster | MSD Plug Wires | American Racing 1-7/8's LT Headers Full System Catback | Baro Breakout Harness | LT4 Map Sensor | Katech Ported TB | MMS Oil Catch Can | 160 Thermo | Solo Performance J-Pipes
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#70 |
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Retired from Car mfrs....
Drives: 2LT RS/HR-V Join Date: May 2013
Location: /Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 10,044
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Going on a year and it never has let me down. I also run the GM splitter. I have worked on about five of these for other people, and every time when there are problems is because the sensor is not put in the right place, and/or it's not calibrated correctly. Once I changed out a few things for other people, it worked fine, all the time.
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