[MeanGreen1LE]

Header install,
I used new factory gaskets and with a little help they went in really easy. Having the BMR mounts make them fit so much better. I did make one potential whoopsy, the button head bolt supplied by TSP head stripped out before I got it torqued down all the way. I have red locktite on it so I don’t think it is going anywhere.
MSD
Back when I purchased there was really no other option, and I still think ported it is proven to make good power. However the fit and finish for the price is insane, like how is this hunk of plastic really 1500$! The way it fits, (or doesn’t fit) together is awful. Plus there are countless examples of it leaking after only a few miles. Most of the swapping of parts over are self explanatory for the most part. Vacuum line for brake booster takes a lot of force to get in. I used silicone spray. If you need it off again remove hose from brake booster line not the manifold.

Pay attention to the torque specs: Many people have made mistakes getting the units wrong. Sequence and multiple passes are important too. Also remember to use supplied Throttle body bolts as the factory ones can/will bust the housing.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Rotofab install,
Went fine, just fits a little tight due to having the katch 95 and adapter. It is super snug!
Did mighty Mouse catch can; Utilized factory quick connectors. Works Great! I attached the bracket onto the fan before putting the fan back earlier. I hate being one of those assembly is reverse of disassembly people and I had good intentions but I stopped taking pictures to the same level. In my defence the over 5 month hiatus really put a kink in my step!!

[MeanGreen1LE]

Got my new tune uploaded from gpi. Using hptuners is another first for me.
I did not mention it but I primed engine with adapter plate and drill pump.
I ran it until it started seeping out of rocker arm.

Here we go! Started a log file pushed clutch in and hit start button. Scary stuff!!
It cranked what seemed like forever; but that makes sense because there was no fuel in the new lines. But it did start and with authority. Wow so loud lol. It was smoking quite a bit at first but again I expected that too. Oil pressure was good maybe high even, seems like it was 60 something. Was trying to vary rpm between 1500 and 2500 or so because I’d seating new rings but also wanted to heat set valve springs. Does have some pops in exhaust here and there. Let it come down to idle and it seems to idle ok. Starting to warm up. Got out to take a vid or two. Smoking underneath has stopped with barely a hint from exhaust. Starting to warm up now. Getting excited. Thinking about shutting it off soon to let it cool off once before making runs to do data logging. Decided to drive it for just a second up the drive and back. (About 200 yards or so).
Felt great ole mean green moving under its own power!!

HOWEVER: On the way back the car was mad and dic says reduced engine power!!! Noooooop! Coast back in shop and look at gauges and oil pressure is hovering around 10 psi

I can’t even believe it and am just totally numb.
(This was all on Christmas Eve)

[MeanGreen1LE]

Been doing lots of research and have posted on here and stupid Facebook. (I hate that more people seem to be on there vs forums)
I have replaced filter and oil. Found tiny gray specs and elongated flakes in filter when I cut it open. None of it seemed ferrous, (it would not stick to magnet).
Drained oil while shining flashlight through it and found nothing seemingly metallic in there. Oil had maybe slight green from assembly lube but looked honey clear other than that.

Ryan at gpi and others mentioned getting a manual gauge on it. Bought a glow shift sandwich plate and installed gauge under hood. That sandwich plate is pretty cool! Manual gauge read within a couple psi of factory. At cold it jumps up to 80 briefly than down to 60 or so. Then gradually drops to 10-12 when warmed up to 190 coolant temp or so.

Dan at Katech has been helpful and mentioned looking into lifter to bore clearance and that they’ve had issues in the past with this. (With Johnson lifters) It would have to be off a lot or on several cylinders I’d think to make such a difference. (From what I’ve read car should hit idle at 25-30). I’ve bought outside mic and a miyutomo bore gauge to assess this.

Of course many have mentioned bearings Since I’m a noob and did not check clearance when I did rod bearings it is possible. I bought plastigauge to check if I don’t find a definitive answer elsewhere. (I don’t want to pull pistons to check with mic/bore gauge). I really hope it is not bearings. And mains surely not!

Katech guys seem pretty sure it’s not their pump but that it could be oil pump solenoid. I’ll be starting car one more time to turn it around to be able to access with hoist so I may see if I can manipulate this sensor with hptuners. As an aside I’ve also had some possible misfires so I’m changing plugs and going back stock wires on one side.

The final thing I hope to look at while engine is out is the oil pan. Y’all might remember me mentioning the crazy angle I had to put the pan to clear the super damper? I’ve hAd countless people who are familiar with ls stuff but not lt mention the infamous oring. Well if you’ve been into an lt you know it’s made differently but I wonder if you can get that little rubber gasket that mounts between the pump and pan asksew?
Also curious if doubling up on those bolt guides might cause a clearance issue that could affect oil pressure.

Regardless she’s coming out and soon. I was bummed and done at first but now I’ve rediscovered my resolve. I’m still bummed but I’m going to figure this crap out and I’ll make this thing run again if I have to save for a crate.

[Crzy97]

Thanks for the outstanding detail!

[MeanGreen1LE]

Oil pump disassembly
With all my questions about this oil pump I decided to tear the original apart to see how it works. I’d watched some videos online but found some conflicting info. I think I get it now but feel free to school me if I’m wrong.

The solenoid was originally a serviceable separate part from the oil pump but now only comes as the whole assembly. You can still find them online as I bought one. It is removed by pulling the metal clip.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Next inside the housing you can see a port straight on with the solenoid and another off to the side that lets oil flow if the solenoid activates and opens.

[MeanGreen1LE]

See the spring. The spring pushes against that flat and is what maintains the default high oil pressure. There is a pin at the top where the plate pivots at. The green are little wear pads that slide against the housing as it moves. Remember that the center remains centered against the crank and the housing moves around it.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Port 1 connects to block on back of pump.
Oil flows in the channel to port 2 where it enters solenoid. If solenoid activates it slightly lowers check ball to allow oil to flow into port 3. If oil enters this chamber the oil pressure physically pushes against the plate and rotates it counterclockwise, (if looking down at pics or standing in front of engine)

Oil pump fits against this little o-ring between the timing chain.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Further disassembly: there is a ring top and bottom like this that helps keep the rectangular vanes in place.

Bare housing. Only thing left is the pressure relief check ball and spring. Labeled to show oil passages.
Look at port 1 and 2 to see how they route into and out of solenoid housing.

[MeanGreen1LE]

You can see tiny check ball on oil control solenoid at green arrow. The plunger pulls it down just enough that oil flows out the side and into the port,(see labeled picture of where solenoid mounts)

[MeanGreen1LE]

High pressure default.
The spring keeps the plate pushed over almost all the way. See how there is little space between the vanes and the output.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Low pressure from solenoid activation.
If the check valve opens there is enough pressure to physically move the plate over and overcome the spring a little. Look how the space opens up at the output and input. Some oil will recycle around and not by pushed out. This lowers the oil pressure and likely volume as well.

[MeanGreen1LE]

Finally got most of my parts in and decided to tear into it. Hard to start but here goes. Got intake manifold off and found oil sitting on intake valve, oil around intake manifold seal and coating intake runner. This is all on cylinder 6.
I’m assuming valve guide seal???? But I don’t think this is my oil pressure issue.