[KirkH]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

Further, i dont see the point in using it as a replacement for the stock setup. The stock clean-side does the exact same thing as that oil fill tube separator and seems to be doing it adequately as I've not heard of anyone saying that they're seeing oil blow by on their clean-side. As a supplement, ok.. but it seems to be a waste as a replacement.

yes this is just proof of concept. Do I need it? No. Elite offers it. I am testing it out. And it looks cooler than OEM oil cap.

[KirkH]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

And i'd be weary about capping that oem setup off. There's a reason why it taps both valve covers for the pcv system here and that's because while operating, oil is trapping gasses at the top of the valve covers and they can't escape until the car is turned off. The single tap to the oil fill tube is fine, but i'd only use it in conjunction with the oem taps on the valve covers. Not instead.

So do you think I should tee it there and have both going back to the oil cap (clean side searator?)

[cellsafemode]

Originally Posted by KirkH

So do you think I should tee it there and have both going back to the oil cap (clean side searator?)

It's up to you as it would require modifying the oem tubes. Though it looks like you'd be able to get away with not much more than a T connector, then use the OEM connector connected to the open side of the T to hook into the air bridge.

That would be the safest setup in my opinion.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by KirkH

yes this is just proof of concept. Do I need it? No. Elite offers it. I am testing it out. And it looks cooler than OEM oil cap.

So the main dirty line. Did you end up cutting that?

Being that it's harder than rubber, what did you splice it with? Or what style connector did you use?

The hard line has gotta be at least 3/8 or 7/16ths right?

[KirkH]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

So the main dirty line. Did you end up cutting that?

Being that it's harder than rubber, what did you splice it with? Or what style connector did you use?

The hard line has gotta be at least 3/8 or 7/16ths right?

Yes I cut it. its not too much harder than rubber. A pvc cutting tool is the best way. I think i showed the tool in the video. it is 3/8. I used a hose barb to splice the venturi valve to the can. they have them that have 2 different size barbs on each end. I will post a close up pic after work.

[cellsafemode]

the clean and dirty side tubes are thin walled plastic-like. I used a dremel to cut mine.

They are completely annoying.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by KirkH

Yes I cut it. its not too much harder than rubber. A pvc cutting tool is the best way. I think i showed the tool in the video. it is 3/8. I used a hose barb to splice the venturi valve to the can. they have them that have 2 different size barbs on each end. I will post a close up pic after work.

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

the clean and dirty side tubes are thin walled plastic-like. I used a dremel to cut mine.

They are completely annoying.

I bet, I was wondering what type of connector yall were using to connect to the hard lines.

[cellsafemode]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

I bet, I was wondering what type of connector yall were using to connect to the hard lines.

On the clean side, i just cut the tube out completely to the connector barbs the stock system uses. I then used hose to stretch over that and clamped it.

I dont know what I'll be doing on the dirty side since that tube is so big and I probably wont want to cut it all the way back to the barbs.

Upside is, you dont need to worry about clamping down super tight. The pressure is negative so you only really need to make sure you are air tight.

[KirkH]

The dirty hose is easily and cleanly cut with a pvc cutter. You can get hose splicers that are 5/8'' on one barb and 3/8'' on the other. It is not visible in this picture but it is connecting the hard hose to the 3/8" rubber hose. The dirty air hose is the hose with the check valve in it, running away from the can. That hose is connecting to the stainless braided cable. I used stainless braided in visible areas, and rubber under the engine cover.

[cellsafemode]

I should have a mishimoto universal 2 port can coming on friday along with hose, few couplers (3/8 to 3/8) and I picked up a couple reducers just in case (5/8 to 3/8). I went with the mishimoto can because it was only 20 bucks more than the prime cooling catch can which is 77 bucks but the mish has better filtration and likely still comes out shorter.

The can height was the biggest factor in deciding not to go all generic for this can like i did for the clean side (which has much more room).

I'll be creating my own bracket to mount it.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

I should have a mishimoto universal 2 port can coming on friday along with hose, few couplers (3/8 to 3/8) and I picked up a couple reducers just in case (5/8 to 3/8). I went with the mishimoto can because it was only 20 bucks more than the prime cooling catch can which is 77 bucks but the mish has better filtration and likely still comes out shorter.

The can height was the biggest factor in deciding not to go all generic for this can like i did for the clean side (which has much more room).

I'll be creating my own bracket to mount it.

That's what I have mounted. I called em direct and got the ss mount. Wouldn't finished it out today but left work and drove 2 hours up to cultrag for the rear black tailights.

Appreciate the tips from both of ya. I know on the lfx, the hose just slid over the hard lines. Guess it's ok to connect these with a brass adapter.

[cellsafemode]

Originally Posted by PolynesianPowerhouse

That's what I have mounted. I called em direct and got the ss mount. Wouldn't finished it out today but left work and drove 2 hours up to cultrag for the rear black tailights.

Appreciate the tips from both of ya. I know on the lfx, the hose just slid over the hard lines. Guess it's ok to connect these with a brass adapter.

I didn't feel like waiting for shipping and just amazon primed it. I think their site has the same can for like 155 (without any model specific hardware). Amazon had it for under 100.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

I didn't feel like waiting for shipping and just amazon primed it. I think their site has the same can for like 155 (without any model specific hardware). Amazon had it for under 100.

I gotchya there.

I ended up using 1/2 inch hose overall. That's inner diameter. It fits over all the stock barbs and stuff.

[KirkH]

Looks good. I hope that the we folks here in this little subforum can improve performance over the lifespan of this engine. I'm glad to help always.

I am going to do a long trip soon so i will be checking the can for the first time after the trip. I will post the results.