[ember1205]

Originally Posted by ariZona28

Nah, I'm just looking for an excuse to upgrade.

Oh. Well, then... you're spot on. There simply is NO WAY you can legally tow with the truck you have.

[ZL1plumbin]

OP. One thing to consider is usually the service body de rates towing a good amount due to the weight of it compared to a normal bed. Since GM manufactures it as a chassis cab. Not with the body on the back. Most times the upfitter doesn’t put a new sticker on it from what I’ve seen. Especially if it’s just some shop doing it aftermarket.
My vehicles that I have built to order with custom things on the back have diff stickers but that’s because it’s built at a factory and then delivered.
Just food for thought.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by ZL1plumbin

OP. One thing to consider is usually the service body de rates towing a good amount due to the weight of it compared to a normal bed. Since GM manufactures it as a chassis cab. Not with the body on the back. Most times the upfitter doesn’t put a new sticker on it from what I’ve seen. Especially if it’s just some shop doing it aftermarket.
My vehicles that I have built to order with custom things on the back have diff stickers but that’s because it’s built at a factory and then delivered.
Just food for thought.

Yes for sure. Thanks

As the traitor FarmerFran mentioned I just need to get on the scale with truck and see the actual weight. Then I also want to see the weight of the car alone. Then when I get everything together hop on the scale with everything together. I feel I will be fine with all this discussion. Driving at a safe speed, tongue length figured out before purchase, possibly heavy duty brakes just to be safe. The open light weight aluminum trailer I feel is the key to success.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2

Yes for sure. Thanks

As the traitor FarmerFran mentioned I just need to get on the scale with truck and see the actual weight. Then I also want to see the weight of the car alone. Then when I get everything together hop on the scale with everything together. I feel I will be fine with all this discussion. Driving at a safe speed, tongue length figured out before purchase, possibly heavy duty brakes just to be safe. The open light weight aluminum trailer I feel is the key to success.

Just the fact that you're approaching this in a logical manner and working through things in steps tells me you'll ultimately land on a good setup that will [safely] work for you.

One thing I'll add for a suggestion for you to consider...

Buy the right trailer. If you end up determining that an enclosed trailer is right, figure out if you can load it in a way that will keep you within your weight limits. Just because that trailer "could" be loaded up to a total of 7k, 8k, or even 10k doesn't meant that's where you'll land. It will be a GIANT upgrade cost down the road if you end up needing to upgrade the tow vehicle AND the trailer at the same time.

[FarmerFran]

Traitor? Wait WUT!?!?!?!

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by FarmerFran

Traitor? Wait WUT!?!?!?!

Brother you are in a 392 now. Ok sorry maybe I should just refer to you as Benedict Arnold. All in fun, u had some good points in this thread. You should get back into an up coming killer 2023 ZL1 LT5.

[FarmerFran]

Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2

Brother you are in a 392 now. Ok sorry maybe I should just refer to you as Benedict Arnold. All in fun, u had some good points in this thread. You should get back into an up coming killer 2023 ZL1 LT5.

If they make it, I will buy one!

[fj5gtx]

I have a steel 18 foot trailer 7k (bought new in 2005) with an incorporated beaver tail, towed it with a 04 1500 Ram QC with 5.7 hemi. The combo worked well. The 2500 is a better option if you're hauling often due to the heavier suspension and larger brakes.

Pick your tie down system in advance and have the trailer tie points placed where you need them when you purchase the trailer.

Get the trailer setup for a winch, you'll likely want it if you break stuff at the track.

Apply fluid film or similar product to the underside if you're in the rust belt, aluminum will oxidize.

If you plan to tow low cars, you may want to upgrade to a tilt trailer. More $, but they're nice and you're not messing around with ramps.

[laynlo15]

So after pulling race cars for about 50 plus years and I've had about 15 trailers but when I started pulling aluminum trailers I was amazed at how much better they are compared to a steel trailer. Lighter, stop better, sit lower because the are torsion suspensions instead of leaf springs. They do cost more but are well worth the extra money. I just sold my 2022 Aluma for 1000.00 more then I paid for it. I'd never pull a steel trailer again or an enclosed like I had a few years ago when I worked for Magnuson. Spend the extra and you won't regret the extra cost. I always put a box up front to carry fuel, jacks, tools, etc.



Titan 24' enclosed

My Sundowner 20'

My steel trailer but the name slips my mind
Was trying to load my Aluma but for some reason it won't load.

[laynlo15]

Finally my 18' Aluma before I put my box on I was test fitting everything getting ready to strap it down.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Very nice Laynlo15 and thanks for taking the time to share. I am pretty much sold on the concept of an open aluminum trailer.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2

Very nice Laynlo15 and thanks for taking the time to share. I am pretty much sold on the concept of an open aluminum trailer.

When I had a enclosed it was nice for long weekends but the cost is higher and you'll burn a lot more fuel. Wind is an issue with towing enclosed trailers also even with a sway bar setup. The aluminum trailers tow so much better also and are generally several hundred pounds lighter then steel. Good luck on your choice.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by fj5gtx

Apply fluid film or similar product to the underside if you're in the rust belt, aluminum will oxidize.

This reminded me of a couple of things from my days of dragging snow trailers...

1) Aluminum trailers will still have steel axles. Different metals have to be 'insulated' from one another properly or they will deteriorate much more quickly. I had a set of main structural frame rails completely rot out on a snow trailer because the axle didn't have any material between the axle and the frame rails when the axle was mounted. Be mindful of how the trailers are put together and be sure that there is some sort of material between the different metals. Maybe even look at some much older versions of the trailers to see how the aluminum holds up over time.

2) A lot of guys would have the underside of their snow trailers sprayed with bed liner material (Rhino, Line-X, etc.) to keep them from rusting / rotting. Not sure if this is something that would easily translate for this type of trailer, but might be worth looking into?

[JSH]

This one works.