[carguy55]

Originally Posted by Kmeleon

You guys using these to break your lugnut loose.... Doesn't it ding the shit out of your nuts? I use a non-marring socket and a breaker bar.

Using "racing lug nuts" with the track wheels

[clyde]

Originally Posted by carguy55

I've been using the M12 Stubby 1/2 in. with 4.0aH battery for 2 years for at track service. Works like a dream, brakes lugs nuts torqued to 140 no problem with the wheel in the air. Trick is to use a deep impact socket without extension. Will not work with an extension. Recently upgraded to the 6.0ah battery for even more power.

That's interesting and unexpected. I haven't used one of them, but have not had consistent good luck with similarly powered 12V guns on 140 ft-lb lugs. I wouldn't mind saving the extra space in my toolbox.

Originally Posted by Kmeleon

You guys using these to break your lugnut loose.... Doesn't it ding the shit out of your nuts? I use a non-marring socket and a breaker bar.

Are you talking about the chrome sleeved OE nuts? Those do not hold up well for more than occasional use. Never tried with the Camaro, but my experience with the non-marring sockets with some other cars is that the socket only gets about 3/4 of the way over the nut, to it mangles them anyway. Those sockets are more helpful to protect the wheels, but they're not helpful on wheels that require thinwall sockets.

I've been using these for four years and am happy with them:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SF8FA7C

[kropscamaro16]

couldnt find one in store but just ordered one online $117 delivering tomorrow thanks guys!

[Dabjbr]

Was just watching this as it's applicable to this thread.

I just bought a Rigid 1/2" but now planning on a 3/8" compact wrench too.

https://youtu.be/tMUiVVxG1KQ

[kropscamaro16]

Originally Posted by Dabjbr

Was just watching this as it's applicable to this thread.

I just bought a Rigid 1/2" but now planning on a 3/8" compact wrench too.

https://youtu.be/tMUiVVxG1KQ

haha that video popped up last night for me also



got my impact this morning home depot delivered it at 6am time to try it out this weekend gotta replace my hub centric rings and lugnuts and figure out why my front right wheel is shaking at high speeds hope its not the hub

[sr71bb]

Originally Posted by Vtor_ZL1

I have dewalt 20V version, its heavy, LOUD and does not always break them loose, breaker bar for that and then gun to zip on or off for torque wrench.

Well I have several 1000 dollar SNAP-ON impact wrenches but I NEVER use those to brake the lug nuts loose because it is too hard on the tool. ALWAYS use a breaker bar!!! At the track I also use the 20 volt MAX DEWALT 1/2 inch impact wrench and it works fine This model DCF911B has 400 ft pounds BREAKAWAY torque and is compact and fairly light

Here is test video

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by 5.M0NSTER

Hmm, I haven’t really though about it. Why is that? It clicks when I reach my preset. When I’m loosening I set it a bit higher and it does not click. Why would it mess with the calibration? I have a simple mechanical unit with the twist dial on the bottom.

I've worked in aerospace for 36 years. We are, to say the least, very anal regarding tool calibration. Our calibration department did a fairly exhaustive study several years ago to determine the effect on calibration resulting from using a torque wrench as a breaker bar, and of not returning the torque setting to zero after use. Believe it or not, we determined that there was no effect on calibration.

[kropscamaro16]

i used a breaker bar first and then used the impact to remove them all and same thing to install them just to be safe

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by L78toLT1

I've worked in aerospace for 36 years. We are, to say the least, very anal regarding tool calibration. Our calibration department did a fairly exhaustive study several years ago to determine the effect on calibration resulting from using a torque wrench as a breaker bar, and of not returning the torque setting to zero after use. Believe it or not, we determined that there was no effect on calibration.

It may be bad form to quote my own post, but I should probably point out that my company's policy is still to zero out torque wrenches after each use, and to only use them for torquing fasteners. The study was more for informational purposes. With several hundred guys using torque wrenches every day, we knew the wrenches were not always being handled properly and it was good to know that, this was not resulting in a bunch of improperly torqued fasteners. That being said, I still zero out my wrenches and never use them as breaker bars.

[Msquared]

I think there may be a mix-up of terminology here:

• A torque wrench is used to tighten fasteners to a specified torque value. Typically it is not supposed to be good for their calibration to use them for loosening purposes, although I have no hard data to justify that. Still, I don't use mine to loosen fasteners.
• An impact wrench is a power tool whose only purpose is to loosen and tighten fasteners that (typically) require a lot of torque. They typically apply more torque for loosening than fastening. If you have one and think it's bad to use it for loosening lug nuts, then I don't really understand the point of having it!

[MightyBobo]

Originally Posted by Msquared

I think there may be a mix-up of terminology here:

• A torque wrench is used to tighten fasteners to a specified torque value. Typically it is not supposed to be good for their calibration to use them for loosening purposes, although I have no hard data to justify that. Still, I don't use mine to loosen fasteners.
• An impact wrench is a power tool whose only purpose is to loosen and tighten fasteners that (typically) require a lot of torque. They typically apply more torque for loosening than fastening. If you have one and think it's bad to use it for loosening lug nuts, then I don't really understand the point of having it!

I legit don't understand people not wanting to use an impact for loosening lugs. That's literally their job. You certainly don't use them to tighten outside of just using it to spin the lug on and save a little initial effort...unless you have a torque stick I guess

[Allez]

Apparently it is recommended to try not to use an impact wrench to loosen after-market wheels with splinted tuner nuts since the key is often thin-walled and can crack. I've used one anyway, I just try to be careful.

[MightyBobo]

Originally Posted by Allez

Apparently it is recommended to try not to use an impact wrench to loosen after-market wheels with splinted tuner nuts since the key is often thin-walled and can crack. I've used one anyway, I just try to be careful.

Well that's not a failure on the lugnuts of course, that's just cheap keys. I wouldn't use those in the first place given the choice.

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by Allez

Apparently it is recommended to try not to use an impact wrench to loosen after-market wheels with splinted tuner nuts since the key is often thin-walled and can crack. I've used one anyway, I just try to be careful.

That's a horse of a different color. I've seen even good splined lug nuts (like Gorilla) that say not to use impacts on them. People I know who run them still use impacts, though (of course). But I could understand not using one, at least.

However, sr71bb's post that got me typing said "It's too hard on the tool." I thought he meant the impact wrench, but maybe he meant the splined socket tool? I can tell you right now that would be a no-go for a set of lug nuts for me. I'm using a set of Gorillas on my 1LE that take a 3/4" (19mm) socket, and that socket fits in the narrow well of my MRR wheels just fine. I can give those all the ugga-duggas I want, and also if I lose a socket I can buy any 3/4" replacement and still get my wheels off, even at an event in the middle of nowhere.