02-16-2020, 10:52 PM | #43 | |
Drives: Track prepped 2018 Camaro ZL1 (a10) Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,389
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http://m.bmrsuspension.com/?page=pro...productid=1686 They claim it will reduce the changes in alignment caused by aggressive driving during track days. Does anyone know if the alignment would have to be redone after installing these? I just got my alignment done.
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2018 ZL1; Mag 2650 and 2 inch LT Headers , every SPL suspension upgrade, MCS 2 way coilovers, sway bars, square SC3R 325's all the way around, and multiple brake cooling upgrades
Last edited by GunMetalGrey; 02-17-2020 at 03:08 AM. |
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02-16-2020, 11:25 PM | #44 |
Drives: Track prepped 2018 Camaro ZL1 (a10) Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Victoria B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,389
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Those Toyo RR’s are super cheap in 295’s in both 18” and 19”!
I started a thread on these last year wondering if anyone had experience with them. TireRack reviews seems to be that they may not be a good match for heavier cars like ours, a number of users said they only bought them because they had to according to the rules of the series they were running in and called them mediocre. The guys with lighter cars seemed to love them. I have no experience with them and I’m only going Off the reviews I’ve read.
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2018 ZL1; Mag 2650 and 2 inch LT Headers , every SPL suspension upgrade, MCS 2 way coilovers, sway bars, square SC3R 325's all the way around, and multiple brake cooling upgrades
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02-17-2020, 06:34 AM | #45 | |
corner barstool sitter
Drives: 08 Mustang GT, 19 WRX Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Time Zone
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Even if you're willing to let alignment slide when replacing OE with OE, it's more important to do check alignment when replacing OE with aftermarket, and I would make that "demanded" when the replacement component does not behave exactly like the OE piece it's replacing. Here, you'd be replacing a component that relies on 'compliance' to permit rotation with one that permits rotation by geometric means alone (ball in socket). Those OE parts that work via compliance effects are allowing motions in more directions than just the rotational one that is necessary. There are also some translational movements going on - a 'squishing' of the bushing along the axis of the link in addition to the rotational twisting - that effectively moves the pivot point around slightly. What this also means is that Chevy's alignment settings also account for these 'unwanted but unavoidable' movements, and optimum alignment settings for using the compliant link end would in all probability not be optimum for use with its ball-in-socket replacement. That is what BMR is getting at when they wrote " This also reduces front alignment changes during aggressive cornering when high loads are applied to the chassis.". GM would be accounting for those alignment changes, and when you eliminate those changes the alignment would not need to be providing any compensation for said compliances. Norm
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'08 GT coupe 5M (the occasional track toy)
'19 WRX 6M (the family sedan . . . seriously) Last edited by Norm Peterson; 02-17-2020 at 01:05 PM. |
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02-17-2020, 10:11 AM | #46 | |
Drives: 2017 SS 1LE, 2016 1SS (previous) Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Metro-Detroit
Posts: 1,863
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02-17-2020, 06:00 PM | #47 | |
Drives: 2020 ZL1 1LE M6; previous 2018 ZL1 Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Southern Ontario, Canada
Posts: 162
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This leads me to believe that this inner wear is cased by a combination of two things: 1/ Dynamic negative camber change on the inner tire. Mac struts gain significant camber in droop. This makes the inner tire on a corner have an even small contact patch and puts more cornering load on that smaller contact patch. 2/ Too much Ackerman Angle. During a corner the inner tire is turning tighter than the outer tire and pulling the car into the corner. Now add this to the already high cornering load on the smaller contact patch caused by the increase in negative camber and you're literally tearing the rubber off the inside edge of the front tire.
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"Don't let the sound of your own wheels drive you crazy!"
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02-17-2020, 08:02 PM | #48 |
corner barstool sitter
Drives: 08 Mustang GT, 19 WRX Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Eastern Time Zone
Posts: 6,990
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^^^ makes sense.
Norm
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'08 GT coupe 5M (the occasional track toy)
'19 WRX 6M (the family sedan . . . seriously) |
02-17-2020, 08:17 PM | #49 | |
Drives: ZL1 1LE Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: California
Posts: 1,297
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02-18-2020, 10:34 AM | #50 | |
Drives: ZL1 1LE Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: California
Posts: 1,297
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I actually run 315/30/18 Nankang AR1's currently, the car does not seem entirely happy with a square set up. Tad loose, and ive had the electronics trip out on occasion.
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Last edited by seanblurr; 02-18-2020 at 11:00 AM. |
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02-18-2020, 04:50 PM | #51 | ||
Drives: '19 RivrsdBlu 1LE ('17 1LE HB sold) Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,686
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If you think about it same thing can be said for R7s (more pressure advised by Hoosier due to tire carcass and of course load ratings). I have been using them on different cars and my friends with C7 GS and C7 Z07 puts very competitive lap times in our local tracks with relatively low cold tire pressures (27psi vs Hoosier's recommended 32-34 psi starting pressures.) As you may already know weight difference of the C7 Z06 and say SS 1LE is not too bad around 170lbs. As I am planning to shave about the same weight on my 1LE I am not too concerned. Power affects the tire life more than the weight, faster you go faster the tires get corded. We have a chance to take tons of data and compare them. For a reference my friend who owns a Z06 (with Z07 package) can cord the front R7s in one day. RRs typically last twice as much as the R7s on his car and it's no different on our Miatas. The only difference is on a Miata it's typically HC limited not the shoulder wear Quote:
If I were you I would first try the RRs on 315/30/18 F and 345/35/18 R (there are some crazy discounts on both and I will share some information soon on that) since on a ZLE you would be able to see some benefits from having slightly more profile/meat in the back because of the added load rating and life. AFAIK, ZLE front suspensions are height adjustable (up to 10mm I believe) so I see no difference between adding a bit rake in fact it may be even beneficial on a Camaro as our cars prone to understeer a bit. These are just the hypothetical guesses of course and YMMV. "There's one way to find out"
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02-18-2020, 06:20 PM | #52 |
Drives: ZL1 1LE Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: California
Posts: 1,297
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A 345/35/18 would be too tall IMO, it's significantly more than a factory 325/30/19 and when combined with a 315/30/18 front it makes it a 13% split which is far too much. These cars need to be within a certain factory difference or the car trips out. Even a 305/35/18 with the 345 is about an 8% split. It's not just about "rake" of the suspension/body, its all about wheel diameters. This car can only handle so much out of factory before the electronics flip out.
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02-18-2020, 07:46 PM | #53 | |
Drives: '19 RivrsdBlu 1LE ('17 1LE HB sold) Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,686
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I might be wrong of course
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02-18-2020, 10:48 PM | #54 | |
Drives: 2020 SS 1LE (previous: 2017 SS 1LE) Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Canada, eh!
Posts: 5,091
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That would surely affect mechanical balance as well as aero balance. Imo. |
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02-18-2020, 11:21 PM | #55 | |
Drives: '19 RivrsdBlu 1LE ('17 1LE HB sold) Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,686
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So I think that's what worries Sean since OEM F/R ratio is slightly changed. I am not sure if it's big enough to trigger something or whether or not it would make any difference when running at the track when all the nannies off.. and as ZLE suspension is somewhat more traditional as opposed to ours. I think Sean had some issues in the past maybe he can shed some lights on that.
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02-19-2020, 01:07 AM | #56 | |
Drives: 2020 SS 1LE (previous: 2017 SS 1LE) Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Canada, eh!
Posts: 5,091
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