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#43 | |
![]() Drives: 2015 Porsche BGTS, 2016 2SS Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Ormond Beach, FL
Posts: 235
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Try this: Aim the sensor level to the group to eliminate a false distance detection during calibration. Power off the unit by taking out the fuse. Place a large box 20" away from the sensor, not the front of the bumper Reconnect the fuse and start the car to power on the unit. Stop the car and press the red button to start the calibration process and set the distance. Rotate the sensor down until a box lowered into the beam triggers at 4" high, 20" away from the sensor. Take the 4" high box and move it along the ground from 30" until it triggers the unit. That should be at 20". Tighten the sensor bolt and reconfirm calibration by sliding the box into the beam to make sure you didn't move it when you tightened it. Disconnect and reconnect the fuse to cycle power. Start the car and reconfirm calibration in normal mode. 20" may seem to far but in use its not. Most of the time you are moving when the beep happens and reaction time usually means the car moves a few more inches before you stop. Setting it for 12" can cause an "oops" if you even slightly hesitate. |
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#44 | |
![]() Drives: Camaro 2016 2SS Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 129
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#45 |
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Camaro. Is. Life.
Drives: 2016 1SS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Greer, SC
Posts: 278
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I installed mine the other day and it seems to work fine. Definitely need to give yourself some reaction distance as it says above. Still have to be aware and pay attention, but it helps. It will false alarm on steep declines, like my driveway, when there's no danger, just funky geometry for the sensor I guess.
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#46 | |
![]() Drives: 2SS, Mosaic Black, Ordered Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Southern NJ
Posts: 337
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Quote:
I, too, was disappointed that mine did not work correctly. I pulled up on curbs and nothing happened. I then recalibrated with a smaller box, maybe three inches tall. Made all the difference in the world. I just need to learn to stop and pull up slowly to the curb until it beeps. Ends up about a foot away. Also, none of that disconnecting power or anything to recalibrate. Just loosen the screw, tilt it down a bit, tighten, test, and its done.
__________________
2SS, Mosiac Black, Adrenaline Red, A8, MRC, NPP, Sunroof, Nav, Silver split spoke
Ordered 12/28/15 1100 1/11/16 2000 1/26/16 2500 1/27/16 3000 1/28/16 3300 1/29/16 TPW 2/15/16 3400 2/4/16 3800 2/15-16 BUILT!!! 4300 2/17 4200 2/23 4800 2/26 6000 3/5/16!!! 2015 Silverado LTZ 2011 Escalade 2006 Honda Accord 1988 IROC Z Camaro (sort of dead) |
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#47 |
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This thread was a great help with installing my Curb Alert (Thanks Glen e!).
Getting the wire snaked from the bottom of the car and up into the engine bay was... not fun. Took a while but I finally found a way through. The rest of the installation and calibration were not difficult. Also added the LED Alert Lights, very cool! |
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#48 |
![]() Drives: 2SS - Black Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: VA
Posts: 260
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#49 |
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Retired from Car mfrs....
Drives: 2LT RS/HR-V Join Date: May 2013
Location: /Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 10,044
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Easy....if you wired the curb alert, adding the light is all common sense
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#50 |
![]() Drives: 2016 2LT RS V6 A8 BVM/Kala NPP Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Torrance
Posts: 55
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Curb Alert Install
My apologies in advance because I am sure this has been answered and understood by others but I am still in the dark. I reviewed all the videos on YouTube and read the many posts, which all have been helpful but not sure where to connect the fuse at the end of my Curb Alert I ordered from PFYC. I placed the sensor on the bottom of the plate for the Sto n Sho. The pulling of the wires were not as difficult as I thought but not sure where to connect the fuse. See attached image. Thanks in advance.
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#51 |
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Retired from Car mfrs....
Drives: 2LT RS/HR-V Join Date: May 2013
Location: /Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 10,044
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The questions you're asking are answered in the first post with the pictures I put there!
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#52 |
![]() Drives: 2016 2LT RS V6 A8 BVM/Kala NPP Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Torrance
Posts: 55
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Thanks but maybe they gave me the wrong kit. The positive cable has a fuse on the end of my wire. The install video says to remove the fuse to the "rear trunk relay" but the model year they showed in the video was different and the 2016 owners manual doesn't have a fuse labeled any thing close to a rear trunk relay. Your post is for a different positive connection than what I received.
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#53 | |
![]() Drives: 2SS - Black Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: VA
Posts: 260
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Quote:
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#54 |
![]() Drives: 2016 2LT RS V6 A8 BVM/Kala NPP Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Torrance
Posts: 55
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Thanks. Will try later.
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#55 | |
![]() Drives: 2SS, Mosaic Black, Ordered Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Southern NJ
Posts: 337
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Quote:
Your first post said to use terminal 4,5,6 for power. Mine did not show power on those terminals. I used terminal 1 for power
__________________
2SS, Mosiac Black, Adrenaline Red, A8, MRC, NPP, Sunroof, Nav, Silver split spoke
Ordered 12/28/15 1100 1/11/16 2000 1/26/16 2500 1/27/16 3000 1/28/16 3300 1/29/16 TPW 2/15/16 3400 2/4/16 3800 2/15-16 BUILT!!! 4300 2/17 4200 2/23 4800 2/26 6000 3/5/16!!! 2015 Silverado LTZ 2011 Escalade 2006 Honda Accord 1988 IROC Z Camaro (sort of dead) |
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#56 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2016 2SS, Red Hot, NPP, Nav, M6 Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Eagle Creek OR
Posts: 783
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My kit also came with the fuse plug attached, so I cut that off & spliced in another terminal. I saw the suggestion in this thread to use terminal #6, so that is what I used. Works well so far. I get the occasional false signal for steep approaches, but when parking, it is a very reassuring "beep" when I get ~20" from the curb.
I just wish there was a more elegant way to feed the wires to the interior. I don't like the idea of seeing the wires snake into the passenger compartment when I open the passenger door. Any other ideas there? |
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