[DorsoDuroJohn]

yep, these guys for good pricing on oil and filter
https://www.rockauto.com/

[kropscamaro16]

i do 2 oil changes a year but i barely drive 3000-5000 miles a year mostly just driving to the track and back ill have to actually keep track this year...

[UnknownJinX]

Originally Posted by 95 imp

This is awkward....



While I wouldn't argue about the motor break in oil change frequency, the 3k oil change is old news. These modern synthetics do not break down as easy as the old oil. I mean, come on, it isn't a Model T (which required an oil change every 1000 miles)

That being said, your 3K/1year rule works for YOU and people who have garage ornaments.

People who DD or put more miles on the car it would be a waste. GM (or should I say gm) engineers put a lot of time/money to calibrate the oil life monitor. It logs the driving conditions (short trips, stop and go, highway, fully warmed up, etc) and calculates how much life is left, which is something the owner can't possibly do.

That being said, $100/yr is chump change. $500/yr (based on 15K miles) adds up.

As far as recommending that changing rear end oil every 6K is crazy. Even with conventional oil you can COMFORTABLY change it every 25K under normal driving.

To go 50K would be fine with synthetic oils. The ONLY circumstance I'd feel you'd have to change it as often as you do is if it were a track only car. And even then, it's debatable with modern oils.

It is your car and your dough. I'm not going to tell you your plan doesn't work for you, because, in your case (3K/yr), it's perfect.

Back in the day, I'd agree with ya that "3K rule" is a great idea, and I religiously changed my oil by that rule.

To say everyone should follow the "old 3k rule" with modern synthetics and oil life monitors is something, respectfully, I can't agree with any more.

Now, I could agree with once a year if your OLM doesn't trip due to low mileage.

Yeah, the typo is pretty funny, LOL.

Without screwing around, I think there was a thread back then that touched the subject on the 1-year oil change rule. I held the opinion that you should change the oil yearly, but after seeing the test from Project Farm someone posted in the thread, I have my doubts. I personally would probably still do it just to keep OLM working, though it's not an issue for me since I DD my car and track it from time to time. I also now see why it makes sense for someone to go beyond the 1-year mark if their oil only has low miles on it.

I followed the 3k miles rule on my RX-8 since I ran conventional oil in it and it is generally more sensitive to engine oil quality than a piston engine. With my Camaro past the break-in period, I will stick with OLM showing me less than 30% life and when it works for me to change the oil, given that my car has some track miles on it. Even then, that's about 4.5~5k miles between changes.

[SnowWhiteSS]

Originally Posted by schoenmaro55

What concerns me is when I started the car for the first time ever, it only had 9% oil remaining with 5,300 miles on the odometer Does that mean the original owner probably drove the living hell out of it? Maybe lol.

Could you possibly link me to your favorite oil catch can? You are very correct with the DI and motors gunking up, not just a Chevy thing... it's happened to every make at one time or another because of it.

No prob.
https://www.mishimoto.com/chevrolet-...hoCpq8QAvD_BwE

This is the one I run. Mishimoto. Love it. No issues. Just make sure you check it every 1000 miles for the first oil change. That way you can gauge how full it gets. Shouldnt get full that fast. But always nice to check. Should drain every oil change from that point after.

Also again. Don’t worry about it the 5900 mile thing. These motors come with cams that have already been broken in by chevy. So even if he drove it hard. It’s fine. Its made to be driven hard. My advice? Establish some reliability in it. Drive it hard as hell for a few days and let it show you what it’s made of. You will be impressed at just how mush these lt1’s can take.

[s346k]

Originally Posted by SnowWhiteSS

These motors come with cams that have already been broken in by chevy. So even if he drove it hard. It’s fine. Its made to be driven hard.

i have a few questions regarding these statements:

what does chevrolet do to "break in" a hydraulic roller camshaft?

also - the LT1 engines are internally identical to those offered in some pickup trucks and large SUVs. are those trucks and SUVs also built to be driven hard and/or abused? the 6.2 is only offered in the highest trim lines, certainly not work trucks.

[beedo]

Originally Posted by s346k

i have a few questions regarding these statements:

what does chevrolet do to "break in" a hydraulic roller camshaft?

also - the LT1 engines are internally identical to those offered in some pickup trucks and large SUVs. are those trucks and SUVs also built to be driven hard and/or abused? the 6.2 is only offered in the highest trim lines, certainly not work trucks.

As a former drive line tech at a dealership, I have replaced engines that are either seized or hammering a rod right off the truck. Don't know what he is thinking that a cam is broken in, but the factory cares less, build it, ship it, and fix it later.

[SnowWhiteSS]

Sorry, let me explain that better. I don’t mean they take your motor and run it to break it in before you receive your car. I mean the break in period has been engineered out. Our cams don’t require a break in period. Roller lifters are used in our lt1’s which means they don’t have to seat like old style camshafts. Mix that with tight bearing clearances and low weight thinner oil for less friction, you get a motor that doesn’t require a break in period. I’m just a guy on the internet so Google can prove it better than I can. But the only thing most people recommend actually is to drive it hard so that the rings seat to the piston. Rings seat under high combustion chamber pressure. Aka, floor it. In other words, your fine.

[s346k]

youre in trouble if the rings are seating to the piston.

[95 imp]

Originally Posted by s346k

youre in trouble if the rings are seating to the piston.

And, if you don't think a freshly built motor doesn't need any break in you're in trouble.

[s346k]

ring seat & a few heat cycles. what's left to "break in"?

[DaggerMouth]

To answer OP: Only issue seems to be the oil pump and the AFM lifters with hard use. Other than that they are pretty stout cars. I have heard of a few valves dropping but not enough that I was ever concerned. Usually caused by another valve train issue listed above or user error.


As for break in, all cars need a break in period. Our manuals call for it and any engine builder will require some method used. I was told the break in procedure by my dealership and GM even puts a different gauge clusters to show a lower redline early on in ownership for vettes which have the same LT1 motor.

I'll agree the camshaft is probably less important and takes less time to break in than piston rings now a days. We know exactly how much GM test cars before shipping them because it is usually the mileage on the car before you receive it and by testing I mean shipping and receiving moving it around.

[Bomicino]

My break in consisted of beating the balls off it as long as it was up to temp from day 1. At 3000 miles, doing cam and full bolt ons on E. Dumping the clutch at 5k on slicks 30+ times. Its a pushrod V8....some over think things. You dont need to be delicate, its a Chevy. Not a vintage Ferrari

[easttxss]

I'm at 84K on this car, wrecked my first one at 80K. Both run/ran like new. I changed my oil at 15K miles with Mobile1 extended performance due to how fast I was putting on the miles. Used to have a 270mile commute before Covid. Now I work close to home and change it when the reminder comes on, which is 7500. And no catch can on either one of them.