[exxit]

Originally Posted by JoeAyalaM

My tuner and I have been trying to find and solve the problem with my Procharger Kit heating issues, without success yet.

He thinks it is that the IAT sensor is heating up from engine radiation, and had the intake silicon tube wrapped in isolation tape. The car runs great at low loads and in short bursts, but after a while it stops pulling. I have been thinking about a comment my tuner said about the MAF Sensor Parameters in the tune being changed for the Procharger. Also the only other component in the system is a Mishimoto Catch Can placed on the vaccum line. Other than these I can only think that it would be a problem with the Surge Valve, the Head Unit or a leak in the intake manifold, all being unlikely.

So please respond the following questions so we can continue solving this:
1. Should the MAF Sensor Parameters be changed when adding a Procharger and what would the correct ones be for the HP Tuners program?
2. Is a Catch Can correctly placed in the vaccum line between the Crankcase and the check valve?

Thank you very much.

How long is a while? I haven't noticed any power loss but I wouldn't have any reference point outside of my buttdyno. Tuner didn't note any power loss on the dyno itself while we did a couple back to back pulls before we did the final check and see. Do you get an IAT code by any chance? I'll stay sub'd to see what this ghost is that you're chasing. I'm planning on adding a catch can to my setup too and will hold off until you track down your issue.

[ProCharger]

Originally Posted by JoeAyalaM

t.

He thinks it is that the IAT sensor is heating up from engine radiation, and had the intake silicon tube wrapped in isolation tape.

Silicon acts as an insulator, so its actually more protected now then if it was in a metal tube. (no different then if it was in the stock plastic tube)

So please respond the following questions so we can continue solving this:
1. Should the MAF Sensor Parameters be changed when adding a Procharger and what would the correct ones be for the HP Tuners program?
2. Is a Catch Can correctly placed in the vaccum line between the Crankcase and the check valve?

Thank you very much.

1) I do not personally change ANYTHING that has to do with temp things in the maf. I only dial in the MAF curve for the fuel side of things.

2) I don't run catch cans on these cars that I tune, because they have a factory catch can stock, and I haven't seen a reason to use something different.

Originally Posted by MR 45TH

Can you please expand on this?

LT motors don't have consistent ring gaps. And are very right motors.
The last motor I pulled apart had (2) pistons with rings at 9 thousandths.
And the other (6) pistons were at 12 thousandths....

If you run over ~600 HP, and do a LONG highway pull (something more then a 1/4 mile) with that kinda tight ring gap...
I can tell you what happens.
The piston gets hot, the rings get hot... and the rings will "butt" together.

When that happens, kiss that pistons middle ring area goodbye,
And say "Hello" to loads of blow by. (and a set of replacement pistons)

There is NOTHING in a tune that can prevent that kinda damage.
To tight of rings = kiss of death for a high HP motor.

[JoeAyalaM]

Originally Posted by ProCharger

I only dial in the MAF curve for the fuel side of things.

Do you mean the Airflow VS Frequency Tables? That's what he changed.

[ProCharger]

Originally Posted by JoeAyalaM

Do you mean the Airflow VS Frequency Tables? That's what he changed.

Correct, that's the only thing regarding the "MAF" that gets touched.

[DevBlackSS]

Originally Posted by ProCharger

Silicon acts as an insulator, so its actually more protected now then if it was in a metal tube. (no different then if it was in the stock plastic tube)



1) I do not personally change ANYTHING that has to do with temp things in the maf. I only dial in the MAF curve for the fuel side of things.

2) I don't run catch cans on these cars that I tune, because they have a factory catch can stock, and I haven't seen a reason to use something different.



LT motors don't have consistent ring gaps. And are very right motors.
The last motor I pulled apart had (2) pistons with rings at 9 thousandths.
And the other (6) pistons were at 12 thousandths....

If you run over ~600 HP, and do a LONG highway pull (something more then a 1/4 mile) with that kinda tight ring gap...
I can tell you what happens.
The piston gets hot, the rings get hot... and the rings will "butt" together.

When that happens, kiss that pistons middle ring area goodbye,
And say "Hello" to loads of blow by. (and a set of replacement pistons)

There is NOTHING in a tune that can prevent that kinda damage.
To tight of rings = kiss of death for a high HP motor.

Thanks for this info!!

[HVR]

I think you need some dyno pulls with everything monitored. Those are crazy IATs. Im in Denver with 15psi from a magnuson and I see 100 to 115. DA is usually 6500ft

[JoeAyalaM]

He has done many dyno pulls, checking everything and has not yet seen temps like those on the highway. That Dyno is a Dynojet, I believe it does not put the same load on the engine as a good uphill WOT run does.

[HVR]

How bout taking a laptop with hp tuner on it to log the WOT run?

[JoeAyalaM]

Originally Posted by HVR

How bout taking a laptop with hp tuner on it to log the WOT run?

Yes, that is precisely the next step. But he is busy for the moment, and has to attending a racing event this weekend, so it'll have to wait...

[JoeAyalaM]

Has anyone installed a second IAT sensor and if so, how?

I am considering putting a small temp reader in the charge air pipe, any ideas?

Thanks to all.

[ProCharger]

Originally Posted by JoeAyalaM

Has anyone installed a second IAT sensor and if so, how?

I am considering putting a small temp reader in the charge air pipe, any ideas?

Thanks to all.

Only cars withdraw through MAF's would need to do that. (AKA: Roots/Screw/NA)

[Fergy]

Originally Posted by JoeAyalaM

Has anyone installed a second IAT sensor and if so, how?

I am considering putting a small temp reader in the charge air pipe, any ideas?

Thanks to all.

http://www.davis.com/Product/Digi_Se...FYONswod3JUBOw

Something like this? and for testing I would just stick it in the IC outlet pipe and clamp over the cable with the silicon hose, 10ft cord should be enough?

Perhaps this way you can be 100% sure temps are real

[Atomic Ed]

Originally Posted by Fergy

http://www.davis.com/Product/Digi_Se...FYONswod3JUBOw

Something like this? and for testing I would just stick it in the IC outlet pipe and clamp over the cable with the silicon hose, 10ft cord should be enough?

Perhaps this way you can be 100% sure temps are real

I would be careful buying/using a probe like this. I've used similar ones like this in the lab and their reaction time is slow.

Look for one that gives you some confidence that it will respond quick enough to see temperature transients.

[JoeAyalaM]

The LT1 is 6.2 L, the Coyote is 5.0 L., so even with a higher redline, the Camaro should flow more air. Now about the I.C. Sizing, this is the Cooling Core Size from Procharger:

Mustangs: stage I 630 cu in., stage II 1,103 cu in.

Camaro's: stage I 432 cu in., stage II 756 cu in.

That makes both stages I.C.'s 32% smaller for the larger engine Camaro. W.T.F.? No wonder at elevation with lesser density air cooling the I.C., there are heating problems even below 7 psi.

I wonder if Procharger will step up and build us an even larger I.C. for the Camaro. I supose that is why Girly changed the I.C. in her higher boost setup.