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Old 12-05-2016, 03:34 PM   #29
bybcous


 
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This and the pan was dropped.
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1ss/Auto-Hyper Blue
acs carbon flash spoiler, bmr springs, gm clear tails.
Texas speed cam, 223/227 .635/.635 116 LSA, Kooks Long Tube Headers with green cats, MSD Atomic Air Force Intake, CAI Cold Air Intake, QTP cutouts. 503 hp
Best so far 11.5 at 123 with a 1.83 60ft. BMR lower and upper trailing arms and upper control arms,E85
DELIVERED 12/29/15
http://youtube.com/bybcous " no talking only racing on my youtube"
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Old 12-05-2016, 03:35 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by bybcous View Post
2375 install, he normally charges 500 for a tune also. I have a auto so I didn't go aggressive with my cam at all, it's a small cam, really small, close to stock and i made 500 hp. About 40 hp alone from cam.
https://youtu.be/ZSf5ObtSpY8
After watching that video now makes me want it like yesterday......................................... ...............
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Old 12-05-2016, 03:37 PM   #31
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Why is it so much more difficult to do a cam swap on the 6th gen vs 5thgen? I realize it's a diffrent motor but it shouldn't be that much harder right?
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Old 12-05-2016, 03:37 PM   #32
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Here.
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1ss/Auto-Hyper Blue
acs carbon flash spoiler, bmr springs, gm clear tails.
Texas speed cam, 223/227 .635/.635 116 LSA, Kooks Long Tube Headers with green cats, MSD Atomic Air Force Intake, CAI Cold Air Intake, QTP cutouts. 503 hp
Best so far 11.5 at 123 with a 1.83 60ft. BMR lower and upper trailing arms and upper control arms,E85
DELIVERED 12/29/15
http://youtube.com/bybcous " no talking only racing on my youtube"
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Old 12-05-2016, 03:39 PM   #33
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Here.
You're the man!
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Old 12-05-2016, 03:45 PM   #34
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I know you're not going to listen to me but I'm going to say it anyway - consider trading in your 1SS towards a ZL1 or used Z06. You might end up finding a good deal. Just as a point of reference: 1LZ's, brand new, are going for $68k at Kerbeck right now.

If you're going to try to buy the parts on your own, you're better off finding a good shop and having them work up a quote for you - then go shop that around to get a better price on the parts. Buying the parts yourself is how things get screwed up/left off the list. Especially a cam, which a good shop can custom grind for you. I would never order one blindly online like it was something from Amazon. It also leads to shops taking shortcuts (you get what you pay for). If you do find someone good, don't nickel and dime them to death. You'll want to stay with them for the long haul and not bounce around from shop to shop.

I wouldn't even do this to be honest with you. You're going to get hosed unless you get lucky and find an honest shop that doesn't take advantage of you. Only a small % of speed shops are operating profitably these days. Anyone can buy parts now at or close to wholesale. The shop is just going to get what they need to make this worth their time in the end, either in labor or some other way...especially since they're going to be dealing with someone doing this for the first time. Once you start haggling on labor or pick a cheaper shop based on a random recommendation on message board, you're really gambling with your car, your $ and ultimately your sanity.

You do also realize that you're going to have to sign an indemnification agreement, right?
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Ordered 3/8/16- NFG/Ceramic White, M6, MRC, NPP, 6 pots, blk blade, no sunroof, blk splitter, blk bow ties, dark tails, nav.
ARH 1 7/8" ceramic coated full sys w/NPP; Maggie 9.2psi (85mm); Jannetty rough idle cam(TSP), tune and LT4 fuel system; Forgeline VX1 Black PVD (20x10,11); R88R 315's; ALPriority; BMR rear arms, bushings, DS loop; RF intake (red); nGauge

93 octane: 712rwhp, 654rwtq / E85 (E66 mix): 734rwhp, 674rwtq (SuperFlow Dyno)
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Old 12-05-2016, 04:20 PM   #35
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indemnification agreement? like if they blow it up, its not their fault?
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Old 12-05-2016, 05:06 PM   #36
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I didnt sign no indemnification agreement , but I did purchase geico mechanical breakdown insurance that will replace motor of it blows on me up to 100k miles.
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1ss/Auto-Hyper Blue
acs carbon flash spoiler, bmr springs, gm clear tails.
Texas speed cam, 223/227 .635/.635 116 LSA, Kooks Long Tube Headers with green cats, MSD Atomic Air Force Intake, CAI Cold Air Intake, QTP cutouts. 503 hp
Best so far 11.5 at 123 with a 1.83 60ft. BMR lower and upper trailing arms and upper control arms,E85
DELIVERED 12/29/15
http://youtube.com/bybcous " no talking only racing on my youtube"
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Old 12-06-2016, 09:06 AM   #37
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Quote:
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indemnification agreement? like if they blow it up, its not their fault?
Sorry, just seeing these now. Yes, in a nutshell.
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Ordered 3/8/16- NFG/Ceramic White, M6, MRC, NPP, 6 pots, blk blade, no sunroof, blk splitter, blk bow ties, dark tails, nav.
ARH 1 7/8" ceramic coated full sys w/NPP; Maggie 9.2psi (85mm); Jannetty rough idle cam(TSP), tune and LT4 fuel system; Forgeline VX1 Black PVD (20x10,11); R88R 315's; ALPriority; BMR rear arms, bushings, DS loop; RF intake (red); nGauge

93 octane: 712rwhp, 654rwtq / E85 (E66 mix): 734rwhp, 674rwtq (SuperFlow Dyno)
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Old 12-06-2016, 09:13 AM   #38
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I didnt sign no indemnification agreement , but I did purchase geico mechanical breakdown insurance that will replace motor of it blows on me up to 100k miles.
Based on your list of upgrades in your sig, I believe it. If you go force induction or have a shop rebuild your engine you're more than likely going to be asked to sign one. Even some tuners make customers sign one. It's usually a requirement of their insurance.
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Ordered 3/8/16- NFG/Ceramic White, M6, MRC, NPP, 6 pots, blk blade, no sunroof, blk splitter, blk bow ties, dark tails, nav.
ARH 1 7/8" ceramic coated full sys w/NPP; Maggie 9.2psi (85mm); Jannetty rough idle cam(TSP), tune and LT4 fuel system; Forgeline VX1 Black PVD (20x10,11); R88R 315's; ALPriority; BMR rear arms, bushings, DS loop; RF intake (red); nGauge

93 octane: 712rwhp, 654rwtq / E85 (E66 mix): 734rwhp, 674rwtq (SuperFlow Dyno)
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Old 12-06-2016, 09:47 AM   #39
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many years ago, before i got into hptuners myself, i was having a regular heads/cam dynotune done at a newer "LSx shop". once we were finished, asked the tuner to do an additional a tune for a 125 shot. he then asked me to sign a agreement

this guy had no clue what he was doing, cranked a ring land on the first pull because he threw too much fuel in it to make it "safe". He didn't communicate any of this until I saw the AFR go to 9.9:1 during the pull and I quickly realized he was clueless. before you know it, theres parts of my piston rattling in my muffler. I later found out he never did a nitrous tune before.

He filled the cylinder with fuel, which is not all that compressible, and boom. nitrous 101
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:16 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicul15 View Post
many years ago, before i got into hptuners myself, i was having a regular heads/cam dynotune done at a newer "LSx shop". once we were finished, asked the tuner to do an additional a tune for a 125 shot. he then asked me to sign a agreement

this guy had no clue what he was doing, cranked a ring land on the first pull because he threw too much fuel in it to make it "safe". He didn't communicate any of this until I saw the AFR go to 9.9:1 during the pull and I quickly realized he was clueless. before you know it, theres parts of my piston rattling in my muffler. I later found out he never did a nitrous tune before.

He filled the cylinder with fuel, which is not all that compressible, and boom. nitrous 101
please the slight addition of fuel is not "filling the cylinder up".: A .055 jet is for fuel injection at 45 PSI can support 150 HP of N2O. That would be fuel for all 8 cylinders....
http://www.robietherobot.com/NitrousJetCalculator.htm

Of course you can figure the mole count of air and fuel and than calculate the volume of fuel that way.

Or you could look at the brake specific HP of the cylinder and calculate fuel that way

Or you could get the DI duration and flow rate in CC and have a direct comparison to 6.2 liters / 8 =

Modern ring lands are high up for smog and MPG, they are significantly weaker that a 1997 and below era ring land.
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:47 AM   #41
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please the slight addition of fuel is not "filling the cylinder up".: A .055 jet is for fuel injection at 45 PSI can support 150 HP of N2O. That would be fuel for all 8 cylinders....
http://www.robietherobot.com/NitrousJetCalculator.htm

Of course you can figure the mole count of air and fuel and than calculate the volume of fuel that way.

Or you could look at the brake specific HP of the cylinder and calculate fuel that way

Or you could get the DI duration and flow rate in CC and have a direct comparison to 6.2 liters / 8 =

Modern ring lands are high up for smog and MPG, they are significantly weaker that a 1997 and below era ring land.

you're making assumptions. he commanded fuel in the tune.
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Old 12-06-2016, 12:18 PM   #42
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So update. I'm now researching from my friends locally to see if they know of any shops within 50 miles of me. Just because I am really nervous about letting my car go under the knife in a city almost 100 miles away from me.
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