[Speedy1975]

Originally Posted by SuperSound

Have you checked to see how much draw is occurring? Wonder if myLink isn't actually shutting down after 15 mins like it should.

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I didn't check, but I'm sure something isn't shutting down. I had the key in the house and went to get something out of the car and when I opened the door the stereo started playing all on it's own. Christine I tell ya!

That battery drain was a real drag. Put a MM on it and 0.000 volts! Made it very hard to get jump started. It's at the dealer now so we'll see what's next.

I was talking with one of the salesman while dropping it off and he said another customer of his was having the same issue in their new Camaro as well. Chevy got something wrong in these. My hunch says it's the Android Auto.

[SuperSound]

Originally Posted by Speedy1975

I had the key in the house and went to get something out of the car and when I opened the door the stereo started playing all on it's own. Christine I tell ya!

You haven't been treating her wrong have you? lol

Yep definitely sounds like it isn't powering off. Did yours come with AA or updated to it? Apparently we have discovered the MY17 cars have a different HW version of myLink. Wondering if this bug exists in 17's too.

[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

I think more then likely its not the Mylink, but the BCM, its all controlled by that unit, if you open a door the BCM comes to life, it sends out the info to the Mylink not the outer way around.

[Speedy1975]

Originally Posted by SuperSound

You haven't been treating her wrong have you? lol

Yep definitely sounds like it isn't powering off. Did yours come with AA or updated to it? Apparently we have discovered the MY17 cars have a different HW version of myLink. Wondering if this bug exists in 17's too.

Mine came with AA already installed. It's like the more I use the radio the worse it gets. I don't use AA that often it's just radio in general that I use.

Originally Posted by 2SSRS@Gen5diy

I think more then likely its not the Mylink, but the BCM, its all controlled by that unit, if you open a door the BCM comes to life, it sends out the info to the Mylink not the outer way around.

BCM?

[SuperSound]

Originally Posted by Speedy1975

Mine came with AA already installed. It's like the more I use the radio the worse it gets. I don't use AA that often it's just radio in general that I use.



BCM?

Body Control Module. Runs the locks, Windows, RAP, lights, etc...

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[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

Originally Posted by SuperSound

Body Control Module. Runs the locks, Windows, RAP, lights, etc...

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I runs it all, any input you add to the car it tells that part of the car you want to change.

[Speedy1975]

Hmm, could be. The symptoms from my perspective are tied to the touch screen "unit" but do understand other modules feed it.

Dealer called me a bit ago to ask me again what it is doing. Took me 5 minutes to run down the list. They then asked if I jump started it and I said "yes it was dead" to which they tell me I shouldn't do that, but instead hook a charger to the batter directly. I told them that would be great if I could actually access the battery. GM should have put a larger pop panel in the trunk so you can actually get to the + and - battery terminals. Not sure what they were thinking there. Am I missing something?

[MGD]

Actually, you can charge the battery from under the hood on the fuse box. There is a large post to hook up the charger.

[SuperSound]

I was pretty sure it is fine to jump the car from the under hood post (believe that is actually what it is for). But I'll let someone else confirm it.

Definitely agree on the hole being bigger.

[Speedy1975]

That's where I jumped it, from the posts under the hood. You know dealers, who knows if what they say is accurate or not. I can tell you I had a CEL after the jump start though and the center panel buttons for the A/C system did not work. Not sure if that's radio system related or not.

[SuperSound]

Originally Posted by Speedy1975

That's where I jumped it, from the posts under the hood. You know dealers, who knows if what they say is accurate or not. I can tell you I had a CEL after the jump start though and the center panel buttons for the A/C system did not work. Not sure if that's radio system related or not.

So I looked up the procedure in the manual. Here goes:


The jump start positive post (1) and
negative post (2) are on the battery
of the vehicle providing the jump
start.
The jump start positive post (4) and
the negative grounding point (3) for
the discharged battery are on the
passenger side of the vehicle.
The positive jump start connection
for the discharged battery is under a
red cover. Remove the cover to
expose the terminal.
1. Check the other vehicle.
It must have a 12-volt battery
with a negative ground system.
Caution
If the other vehicle does not have
a 12-volt system with a negative
ground, both vehicles can be
damaged. Only use a vehicle that
has a 12-volt system with a
negative ground for jump starting.
2. Position the two vehicles so
that they are not touching.
3. Set the parking brake firmly
and put the shift lever in
P (Park) with an automatic
transmission, or Neutral with a
manual transmission. See
Shifting Into Park 0 206 with an
automatic transmission,
or Parking 0 207 with a manual
transmission.
4. Set the ignition to OFF. Turn off
all lights and accessories in
both vehicles, except the
hazard warning flashers if
needed.
6. Connect the other end of the
red positive (+) cable to the
positive (+) terminal of the good
battery.
7. Connect one end of the black
negative (–) cable to the
negative (–) terminal of the
good battery.
8. Connect the other end of the
black negative (–) cable to the
negative (–) grounding point for
the discharged battery.
9. Start the engine in the vehicle
with the good battery and run
the engine at idle speed for at
least four minutes.
10. Try to start the vehicle that had
the dead battery. If it will not
start after a few tries, it
probably needs service.

Jumper Cable Removal
Reverse the sequence exactly when
removing the jumper cables.
After starting the disabled vehicle
and removing the jumper cables,
allow it to idle for several minutes.

*If the jumper cables are
connected or removed in the
wrong order, electrical shorting
may occur and damage the vehicle. The repairs would not be
covered by the vehicle warranty.
Always connect and remove the
jumper cables in the correct order,
making sure that the cables do
not touch each other or other
metal.*

[Speedy1975]

Yep I read that while trying to jump it. Battery was so dead I had to get my Challenger and hook it up and idle for 10 minutes for the battery to have enough juice to turn the starter over.

[Speedy1975]

Well, after the dealer having the car for a week, I called them this morning for status and they said Chevrolet told them to disconnect the battery, and reconnect. Said all was good and come get it. Ummmmmmmmm.

Picked it up as the dealer said Chevy would not authorize any further diagnosis unless the problem returns. On the way home from picking it up, symptom #1 re-appeared where the HUD gives double notification when changing channels via steering wheel controls. Click the wheel button to change stations, HUD says "36 Alt Nation" for example, then goes back to showing me the speed and RPMs. 15 or so seconds later, the HUD again displays "36 Alt Nation" even though I haven't selected any buttons or anything. We'll see if the rest of the problems return but I'm not getting warm fuzzies.

[BravoMyles]

Chiming in here, seems like a fitting thread. Bought my 2017 1SS on Saturday, MyLink went out today. Screen never turned on, then eventually went to "Waiting for Update Media" and never moves from there.

Already called the dealer's service department and waiting on a call back. Refused to schedule an appointment due to just buying the car, the first 2017 they sold for that matter. Told them I want to just bring it in today.

We'll see how this goes.