06-05-2021, 07:20 PM | #29 | |
Drives: 2022 1SS 1LE A10 BCD WCT+PDR Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Johnstown, PA
Posts: 3,321
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Quote:
These type of arms with rubber bushings need to be torqued at ride height so the rubber is at a neutral state. Otherwise they will be in a constant state of bind, creating some of the effects you mentioned in your feedback. This is known as timing the bushings. And it should be done any time an arm is removed or if there is a ride height change due to lowering springs.
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2022 1SS 1LE A10 BCD WCT+PDR2014 1SS 1LE NPP RECARO SIM-SOLD1995 Z28 M6 GSC PGM-SOLD1975 NOVA COUPE 300HP 350 TH350 FLASH RED-SOLD
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06-06-2021, 09:14 AM | #30 | |
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It does say to use a new bolt as it's TTY and install in the opposite direction than the bolt was originally installed to make it easier to remove in the future. |
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06-06-2021, 06:27 PM | #31 | |
Drives: 2017 SS 1LE, 2016 1SS (previous) Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Metro-Detroit
Posts: 1,863
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12-07-2021, 07:13 PM | #32 |
Drives: 2018 Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 11
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Mine too! Is it safe??
Damn it, I got it too!!! Only on driver side, upper control arm that meets the car. I just hit 31k, no track use just daily. Yeah Doesn’t seem to have any adverse effect; I’m out of warranty so wonder how long I should wait? Anybody have any insights? Way back when I thought bushings had thick grease, so hydraulic is new to me.
Last edited by chudc69; 12-07-2021 at 09:48 PM. Reason: Added details |
12-11-2021, 09:07 PM | #33 | |
Drives: 2017 SS 1LE, 2016 1SS (previous) Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Metro-Detroit
Posts: 1,863
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05-11-2022, 04:00 AM | #34 |
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I recently replaced mine with the FEA arms. From what I've read the fluid is there to reduce NVH. I haven't had a track day yet to try out the FEA parts. Also upgraded to some SPL parts and camber plates.
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05-12-2022, 11:01 AM | #35 |
Drives: 2017 SS 1LE, 2016 1SS (previous) Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Metro-Detroit
Posts: 1,863
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I didn't notice anything on track. Maybe they help in front tire wear (inside edge), but I cannot confirm; I say this because the bushing design is stiffer on the FEA vs the FE4, which means more control of how the wheel is placed in a turn. I did notice a very small difference on the street though.
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11-02-2022, 01:13 AM | #36 | |
Drives: 2017 Blue Camaro 1SS 1LE with PDR Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 1,004
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I finally got around to installing my FEA links. Hoping it fixes the excessive inner tire wear that I have been seeing lately...last set of fronts had almost half of their tread life remaining when they corded. Or maybe it is just because I have been doing thousands of miles of straight line highway driving with -2.8 degrees of front camber (but 0 front toe which should help).
The job was a major pain for me. The ball joint tool that I borrowed from AutoZone didn't fit and no amount of hammering on the knuckle/arm with a sledgehammer would pop it out. Even jacking the corner up on both the threaded stud and the arm didn't help. I was afraid to use heat in case the grease might catch on fire. The pickle fork that I owned also would not work in spite of using a jack handle for leverage to wiggle it and hitting it with the sledgehammer even when I cut 1" off of each side of the fork with an angle grinder and then another 1/2" trying to get it to apply more upward pressure. I was surprised by this because I replaced the other front arm on one side a while back after I bent it on a curb and it came out easily without a ball joint tool or pickle fork. After some research, I found the method I should have used to start with on the Corvette forum. I popped the ball joint out in a minute or two per side after buying the Harbor Freight ball joint tool and grinding the material away with my Dremel 9903 Tungsten Carbide Cutter at 20k rpm (same one I used for elongating the strut to knuckle bolt holes for more front camber) in the spots mentioned in the link above. The U shaped part goes on the nut (see attached picture). With the nut tightened closer to the knuckle, grinding material away from the U to make it wide enough to fit on the nut might be the only modification required. You need a 6mm allen key to hold the threaded stud when tightening the new nut on each side. The CH-42188–B separator recommended by the service manual is not stocked by any local stores that I could find online. Also the sawzall blade that I bought to cut the bolts wore out before I even cut through the first bolt (6 in. 8/10 TPI Steel Demon Bi-Metal Reciprocating Saw Blade for Thick Metal Cutting) and was so dull that I couldn't even finish cutting through the second bolt so I finished with the Dremel 9903 Tungsten Carbide Cutter. Maybe 3 or 4 of those sawzall blades would be needed. I guess a different type of higher end blade might last longer for cutting grade 10.9 bolts but I am no expert on that. There's a wiring harness (protected by a black plastic sleeve) that is in the path of the blade so I picked 6" instead of a longer blade. Laying on my back pulling the sawzall towards my face while watching the metal shavings fall onto my face shield was not comfortable but it was the only option I could come up with to cut the bolts. In hindsight, maybe the Dremel 9903 could have done it without the sawzall but I don't think that is really what it is meant for. My angle grinder and Dremel cutoff wheel would not fit in that area due to limited space. My arms were sore after torqueing the new bolts since I was on my back with all 4 wheels on rhino ramps so there was not much room to exert the required amount of force. I think the weight of the car's weight needs to be on the tires before tightening these arms up even though the service manual does not mention that. I tightened the other front arm I replaced a few years ago with the corner in the air and this caused the ball joint to wear out in less than 2 years so I had to replace it again (tightening it with the car on the ground the 2nd time) while the original ball joint on that arm on the other side still has not worn out. Torque: 74 lb ft + 90-105 degrees for the new nut/bolt replacing the bolt that you cut. (use 18mm wrench(es) and/or socket) 30 lb ft + 120–135 degrees for larger steering knuckle nut (use 6mm allen key to hold threaded stud in place against rotor until it is hand tight with a 21mm wrench [or adjustable wrench], then remove the allen key and torque with a 21mm socket) The service manual says the nuts are reusable but I replaced them with new ones. I used the torque wrench on the bolt head instead of the nut due to more space on that side and had an 18mm wrench on the nut pressing against the metal bracing to hold the nut in place. Quote:
I put a screwdriver into both the old FE4 and new FEA bushings where the bolt goes and pushed on it to compare them and the new ones were significantly stiffer than my old ones. I could also see where the rubber ripped releasing the fluid when I took the cap piece off of the old ones. |
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12-04-2022, 02:44 PM | #37 | |
Drives: 2018 Camaro SS 1LE Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Simi Valley, CA
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Based on the comments above, seems as though other than NVH the unit works fine without it, in most cases. |
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05-16-2024, 10:54 AM | #38 |
...so no negative to leaving the blown/leaking bushing?
Ride harshness isn't an issue.
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2018 Camaro SS 1LE - 2011 370z - 2004 VW R32 - 2000 Civic Si Mods: Rotofab, Nick Williams 103mm TB, MSD IM, Kooks 1 7/8 Results: 470 hp / 447 tq |
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05-16-2024, 10:55 AM | #39 |
Drives: '22 2SS 1LE Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: NorCal
Posts: 178
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Put FEA arms in. 2 hrs labor (have to cut the bolts out) and arms were 70 each. Car feels good!
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05-18-2024, 07:04 PM | #40 |
Drives: 2020 Rally Green Metallic 1SS 1LE Join Date: May 2021
Location: VIRginia
Posts: 18
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Bushing leak
Old thread lives on, just discovered my right front had made quite a mess after getting on the lift from tracking last week at just over 10k miles. Also see that BMR makes bushings for the forward rod, although quite costly.
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...productid=1686 |
05-19-2024, 05:06 AM | #41 |
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I didn't have any issues tracking with my old ones that had leaked. My FEA arms were upgraded with SPL bushings
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05-23-2024, 09:02 AM | #42 |
Question #2 Is the LCA the only fluid filled bushing on the front suspension of the SS 1LE?
I see some leaky traces like the above. Want to be sure it's not something else. Thanks all!
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2018 Camaro SS 1LE - 2011 370z - 2004 VW R32 - 2000 Civic Si Mods: Rotofab, Nick Williams 103mm TB, MSD IM, Kooks 1 7/8 Results: 470 hp / 447 tq |
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