[cjperformance]

I have a AEM wideband gauge and a AEM boost gauge... but I would like to get something that allows me to display some additional information like my eth fuel % without having to lug around my laptop.

Would also like to have something that allows standalone data logging.

Looking at:
- Hptuners standalone data logging (I think requires pro features), but doesn't solve the ability to view things w/o my laptop
- Banks DataMonster - seems pretty nice and seems to solve both items. Only downside would be cost
- Torque Pro - Maybe the best solution if I dont need a gauge or datalogging? Just for checking things like eth content? Can this use the MPVI2+ bluetooth functionality? The MPVI2+ Doesn't seem to be a supported adapter and there isn't a lot of info out there. If the app is really just $5 maybe I'll just buy/install it. If it works it work, if not... I'm out $5 until I get a compatible BT adapter.
- Aeroforce Interceptor OBD2 - prob has all the same things as Banks. Doesn't look as nice as Banks in my opinion.

Any other thoughts?

[wnta1ss]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

You're right... I got the middle column for Limit TqMgmt, but the tune I was using as a template for the TCM changes didn't have the right-hand column for Torque Reduction changed.

I'll make those changes and test at the next opportunity. It's raining this AM here... but is supposed to clear up later. Hopefully things dry out. Worst case will try tomorrow.

Be advised that full-power shifts (Trans TM off) will probably have wheelspin on the shifts, particularly with street tires. Just be ready for it and keep it straight.

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by wnta1ss

Be advised that full-power shifts (Trans TM off) will probably have wheelspin on the shifts, particularly with street tires. Just be ready for it and keep it straight.

Thanks for the heads up. Hoping I can find a medium between the trans tune and ECM where TQ mgmt is off and shifts are firm w/o breaking tires loose.

Still learning what all the knobs and buttons do in the TCM. Wondering if playing with the values in the Shift Timing -> Desired Shift Time can be tweaked.

I'll drive it for a bit w/ the TQ MGMT completely off and see what it does, and then start fiddling. I imagine there will be some tradeoffs between shift firmness and just roasting the transmission clutch packs with too much engine power, and too much shift duration... So who knows, maybe leaving some amount of TQ MGMT in place is the actual answer. Smarter people than me created this tune, but I like to fiddle and learn.

[KingLT1]

To clarify the Torque Management is now off. There is still Torque Reduction being applied on the shifts via timing cut. They are not the same thing.

I didn't disable TR because it's a good way to end up in the ditch until the OP gets use to how the car behaves and is on a tire. I am sure it's a night and day difference from where it was at. Its only pulling spark back to 5 degrees or so on the shift and putting it right back in so it's only about a tenth slower in the 1/4 vs turning it completely off if it doesn't spin on the shifts. You really need to be on a drag radial at minimum to run with no TR... Either way all you need to do is disable that switch so it shifts with full timing.

Torque Pro app works well for me when I don't have laptop in the car.

[grampa_ss]

These guys are right...the car is going to shift way harder....it actually launches you forward. I use 2 tunes. 1 for the track and one for DD. The DD I do not disable torque reduction & shift points are lower too.

You should try it though....you'll feel the difference just cruising thru the neighborhood.

[cjperformance]

Turning those off would just be like an old-school street-strip shift kit right?

Used to rip a 2nd gear scratch at half throttle back in the day with a shift kit, lol...

[KingLT1]

What I provided is a middle ground if you used my minimum spark table on the ECU side. You should be seeing 4-6 degrees on the shift instead of -10.

And no I wouldn't call it quite like old school because old school stuff never shifted with a locked converter. That is what makes these new automatics more efficient is the fact that they lock @ WOT. So with no torque reduction they lunge forward on the shift.

All you need to disable is the upshift on the TR switch panel. The first few switches do nothing.

[cjperformance]

Hmmm. didn't know about shifting with locked converter... since I'm still on the OEM converter... i dont want to poke the beehive since it already had shudder issues.

Prob wait until I get the circle d installed and broke in before I try then.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

Hmmm. didn't know about shifting with locked converter... since I'm still on the OEM converter... i dont want to poke the beehive since it already had shudder issues.

Prob wait until I get the circle d installed and broke in before I try then.

I rune mine all the time with TR disabled and haven't had any issues. Not trying to scare you just inform. On a street tire I wouldn't disable it...it's even sketch on a drag radial when it gets cooler out and I normally turn it back on.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

On a street tire I wouldn't disable it...it's even sketch on a drag radial when it gets cooler out and I normally turn it back on.

This for sure! I tried TR off on the street one time and the back end broke loose on an upshift at about 80 or so... scared the crap out of me! Immediately turned it back on. LOL

[cjperformance]

Trying to figure out the significance (or not) of the tc slip rpm and trans slip rpm.

4th graph down. Not sure if this is good/bad/ugly?

I gather that the tc is slipping a bit through most of the pull, then there's a tiny tq mgmt event right around 6400 rpm, and then the trans slip value goes high (white line).

I've looked a little bit for info, but searching for anything related to "trans slip" give a massive amount of unrelated info.

Looking for input, or pointers to some info where I can read up.

I saw some info regarding re-doing the learn procedure. The trans slip comes on above the rpm where previously it would have already shifted.

Or am I just an idiot, and thats just the shift taking place?

[KingLT1]

looks like a little tire spin to me. Does something feel off with the trans?

[cjperformance]

Nah, seems good. Just trying to understand what im looking at. Ive decided that that the trans slip rpm is just the trans shifting and not internal clutch pack slip or anything. Not going to worry about the tc slip either. Replacing the converter soon. Car and trans feel really strong. I just dont have any frame of reference to know whats normal or not. Trying to learn.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

Nah, seems good. Just trying to understand what im looking at. Ive decided that that the trans slip rpm is just the trans shifting and not internal clutch pack slip or anything. Not going to worry about the tc slip either. Replacing the converter soon. Car and trans feel really strong. I just dont have any frame of reference to know whats normal or not. Trying to learn.

If you’re still running stock trans pressure while trying to apply significantly more power, you’ll end up with slippage IMO. If your torque model isn’t correct then the trans won’t know how much torque you’re actually making, so it’s critical that gets setup right.