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Old 01-15-2026, 12:18 PM   #15
RobZL1
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I like both the fuel line/check valve restriction and the pressure sensor theories.

I think you could diagnose which might be the most likely by looking at your LTFT's.

If they are extremely negative, then it's likely the pressure sensor.
If they are not extremely negative, then it's likely the fuel line/check valve.

Why do I say that?

If it's the pressure sensor it would be severely overfueled and you'd see it in extremely negative LTFT. In more detail, say it wants 800psi and it's being told it's at 400psi. It's then going to raise the pump cycle to the full 130degrees eventually to try to get to 800psi (though it may already be there or above in reality). In that case, it's also going to be pushing a lot more fuel than it thinks it is, and you'll be seeing maxed-out negative trims to try to maintain commanded lambda.

If you are not seeing extremely negative trims, it's probably the fuel line/check valve. It's not getting enough fuel, and it raises the pump cycle to try and increase the pressure to desired. Since there isn't enough fuel, it only gets part of the way there, and the pressure reading provided by the sensor is accurate the whole time. At this point, it's actually getting the fuel it thinks it is, and you won't see odd LTFT's. If anything, they may be quite positive.

Shoot holes in this, please, but that's how I'd approach it on my car.
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Old 01-15-2026, 03:18 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobZL1 View Post
I like both the fuel line/check valve restriction and the pressure sensor theories.

I think you could diagnose which might be the most likely by looking at your LTFT's.

If they are extremely negative, then it's likely the pressure sensor.
If they are not extremely negative, then it's likely the fuel line/check valve.

Why do I say that?

If it's the pressure sensor it would be severely overfueled and you'd see it in extremely negative LTFT. In more detail, say it wants 800psi and it's being told it's at 400psi. It's then going to raise the pump cycle to the full 130degrees eventually to try to get to 800psi (though it may already be there or above in reality). In that case, it's also going to be pushing a lot more fuel than it thinks it is, and you'll be seeing maxed-out negative trims to try to maintain commanded lambda.

If you are not seeing extremely negative trims, it's probably the fuel line/check valve. It's not getting enough fuel, and it raises the pump cycle to try and increase the pressure to desired. Since there isn't enough fuel, it only gets part of the way there, and the pressure reading provided by the sensor is accurate the whole time. At this point, it's actually getting the fuel it thinks it is, and you won't see odd LTFT's. If anything, they may be quite positive.

Shoot holes in this, please, but that's how I'd approach it on my car.
Its got sound logic, only problem is your fuel trims are different in each fuel trim cell so at idle its easy to see your idle fuel trim cell (i think number6) but none of the others. You would need a scanner that can see cells its not currently in or you would need to force the engine into those cells and check what the numbers are.
But diagnostic of the idle fuel trim cell will more than likely coincide with the others. Especially since it's got half the fuel pressure it wants at idle.
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Old 01-15-2026, 03:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bishopts View Post
Its got sound logic, only problem is your fuel trims are different in each fuel trim cell so at idle its easy to see your idle fuel trim cell (i think number6) but none of the others. You would need a scanner that can see cells its not currently in or you would need to force the engine into those cells and check what the numbers are.
But diagnostic of the idle fuel trim cell will more than likely coincide with the others. Especially since it's got half the fuel pressure it wants at idle.
For what it's worth, it's easy to see both current trim cell and current trim value with HPT scanner while you are driving (or review the log afterwards), which is what he's using.
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Old 01-15-2026, 07:04 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobZL1 View Post
For what it's worth, it's easy to see both current trim cell and current trim value with HPT scanner while you are driving (or review the log afterwards), which is what he's using.
Very true. And if the graphs are setup correctly you can see the entirety of all the cells.
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Old 01-19-2026, 11:11 AM   #19
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For an update, I tried the rail sensor and removal of the factory check valve. It was neither of those items.

I installed my old LT1 HPFP and it worked perfect. I have just ordered a new LT4 HPFP, should be in on Wednesday so hopefully when I start it up with that, it will also be perfect. not sure i have it in me to take it apart for anything else again after taking it apart and putting it back together 4 times over the last week and half...
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Old 01-19-2026, 02:50 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Rydog2SS View Post
For an update, I tried the rail sensor and removal of the factory check valve. It was neither of those items.

I installed my old LT1 HPFP and it worked perfect. I have just ordered a new LT4 HPFP, should be in on Wednesday so hopefully when I start it up with that, it will also be perfect. not sure i have it in me to take it apart for anything else again after taking it apart and putting it back together 4 times over the last week and half...
Well the one thing we all didn't want it to be...
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Old 01-19-2026, 08:01 PM   #21
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Well the one thing we all didn't want it to be...
Yeah for sure... I do appreciate the response from everyone, was hoping it was something else, but we will get it back on the road. a little less than 2 weeks till sick week, got a lot of driving to do and track days coming up!
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