[m6-lt1]

Originally Posted by Germansheperd1

Why unless your engine is wore out?
The crate LT 535 is your exact engine with ported heads and a cam.

Good question! I track mine so I figure at some point it will need some kind of “refresh”. Can’t expect any engine to do unlimited track days and never need some kind of rebuild. Hoping it doesn’t pop on track though but if it does and it’s out of warranty was just thinking about what options I’d have to increase power while getting major work done.

[G2K]

I dont think theres anything "Cheap" in this platform... there're cheaper things... like everything theres always levels to this.

Most cost efficient is probably a LT4 swap, tune and headers... 100+whp easy and very reliable... as much as your tuner dictates. on my LT4 blower swap I made 620whp setup I put around 20K trouble free miles... aggressively tuned and raced almost daily as it was my daily driver at the time. You search around and you can probably kit it to around 4-5K and 1-2K in labor or a used bigger blower...

Its doable, the main issue is everyone says just 100+HP and immediately start getting smaller pulleys :P

[RideWithDanger]

If reliability and drivability is your goal and adding roughly 100 crank horsepower, I think full bolt ons will get you there or pretty close. Just don't cheap out on the parts.

[GreyGhost702]

Even when picking 2 out of 3 (power, reliability, cheap), there are still no guarantees. You can spend top dollar on parts and labor, and still have failures.

The fact that GM and other auto manufacturers spend big money on R&D doesn't mean they aren't cutting corners. They design/use parts that meet specific goals, and the conversation will always be had, "Can we use a cheaper part in place of the more expensive part?" It is also true, not all aftermarket builders are as concerned with the reliability of a product, as much as its pure performance. But there are those who really try to meet that balance. I think it's just generally accepted as an unspoken, “The flame that burns Twice as bright burns half as long.” Also holds true for high power engines. Even the Tesla electric shit, the electric motors don't last as long the harder they're pushed. I digress, though. We're talking about +100whp here, not +500whp.

In regards to the OP, I think budget dictates more of our build choices than anything else. If you have the money, I think NA is the more rewarding path to +100whp. The setback will come in the form of how much emissions you're allowed to compromise, how many decibels you can get away with in your area, and what kind of fuel you have access to.

Supercharging normally would be the best bang for your buck, but I've read too many issues and risks involved with adding boost to the stock bottom. With as expensive as the Gen 5 LT's are to replace, I personally wouldn't take the risk. The coyote is better suited for stock FI, and the Gen 5 LT seems to be the better NA monster. Again, how I feel about it. It's just rough that NA is always so expensive for the power gains.

[Ventmaster]

I vote Procharger. Yes, a centrifugal supercharger. 7psi gets you a safe 150hp according to the manufacturer. That's at peak rpm I grant you, but that means if the weather turns nasty on you, just keep the rpm low and she runs like a stock car. No other changes necessary. You can run the stock air intake. Get it in satin finish (no charge) and it blends in like a stock piece. With the helical gears only someone who knows what to listen for will know it's there. Comes with a hand-held tuner with a safe tune. Install yourself and you're looking at a little over $8K. And it's reversable, time to trade in, you just pull it off and go back to stock tune. IMHO it's the way to go for an easy extra 100hp at the rear wheels.

[ALMN]

From reading countless of forums and doing some research. The cheapest and most reliable way to get 100 HP to the crank seems to be lt2 intake manifold route. My understanding is you get a ported lt2 intake manifold with all connections and modifications done on the im, couple that with a ported 95 mm throttle body, rotofab dry cold air intake(i think a stock box with green filter should also do the trick), flex fuel kit, lower temp thermostat, ati balancer, headers with full exhaust and flex fuel tune. Combining all of those mods and running E85 should get you pretty close to 100 hp at the crank or 85+ whp.

[OB0001]

I just ran 11.37@ 121.00 with bolt on's and E85, I have to be close to that 100HP + range. car runs awesome on the street. nittos and a poor prepped track.

[AZIROC]

Blower will probably be cheaper in the long run.

[242ss1LE]

Originally Posted by Ericdared

Alright, so I will give you my secret. Cai and a k&n sticker and boom, you are there.

I love this bring back the 90’s lol the injen sticker adds the most hp but I don’t know if stock motor can handle that kind of power

[Need4Camaro]

I don't understand why so many people are saying 100 extra HP is supposed to be difficult or harm reliability. Heads / Cam / E85 Tune should get you there without a problem. I am pretty close to 100 extra whp with just Intake, Full Exhaust, E85 Tune. Even tested on two different dynos and am making right at 500 WHP so that is about an 80 HP jump from stock. I DD and beat the snot out of my baby too.

[cheeze9878]

Originally Posted by Need4Camaro

I don't understand why so many people are saying 100 extra HP is supposed to be difficult or harm reliability. Heads / Cam / E85 Tune should get you there without a problem. I am pretty close to 100 extra whp with just Intake, Full Exhaust, E85 Tune. Even tested on two different dynos and am making right at 500 WHP so that is about an 80 HP jump from stock. I DD and beat the snot out of my baby too.

Where are you getting 500 WHP is +100HP? Do you know your SS comes stock with 455? Your head/Cam/ and E85 only got you about 45 a little ways away from 100

[Dynamical]

Originally Posted by cheeze9878

Where are you getting 500 WHP is +100HP? Do you know your SS comes stock with 455? Your head/Cam/ and E85 only got you about 45 a little ways away from 100

You're talking about GM's 455hp rating for the LT1. He's talking about 500RWHP on a dyno.
He has " just Intake, Full Exhaust, E85 Tune" Not heads/cam.
If I read him correctly

[Ericdared]

Originally Posted by 242ss1LE

I love this bring back the 90’s lol the injen sticker adds the most hp but I don’t know if stock motor can handle that kind of power

That's when I bring in my ultra secret weapon, chrome...chrome everything in the engine bay. It strengthens the motor and repels the gremlins.

[Twizzty]

Originally Posted by cheeze9878

Where are you getting 500 WHP is +100HP? Do you know your SS comes stock with 455? Your head/Cam/ and E85 only got you about 45 a little ways away from 100

You don't really think GM rates that 455 at the wheels...right?

It's obvious he was talking about WHP and it looks like he got over 80 WHP with just basic bolt-ons and e85. That's where I would start.