[ls1ya]

Originally Posted by Capricio

Thanks, would love to hear from anyone that actually attempted to build this based on the listed parts and instructions. Let us know how it turned out!

We may try to provide one more video on configuring the relay boards since we recorded that process, but there are already videos available for that. Using Mode 12 is the most important part.

Idk how I missed this, well maybe I do. I searched the subject but never signed in until today. I would have definitely given this a shot and still might. it beats paying 1300 for IGLA and I know a lot of people complain about that alone.

[roostere4]

Very Very cool!

Quick question, how is the system preventing the start of the vehicle normally? i.e. if nothing is plugged into the OBD port to trip the trigger? From my read of the schematic it looks like starter circuits are normal until the relays are triggered by something being plugged into the OBD port and only then they are broken.

[Capricio]

Originally Posted by roostere4

Very Very cool!

Quick question, how is the system preventing the start of the vehicle normally? i.e. if nothing is plugged into the OBD port to trip the trigger? From my read of the schematic it looks like starter circuits are normal until the relays are triggered by something being plugged into the OBD port and only then they are broken.

Correct. If a driver has a valid fob, this won't stop anything from happening. It also won't prevent a relay attack to get the door locks open, only a Faraday pouch will do that.

For an extra $1200 or so, the IGLA system offers two factor authentication, "something you have" and "something you know". If you want that level of protection and are content to run a button sequence every time you start the car, it appears to be a good option. Personally, I didn't want to have to deal with handing a valet or service counter guy a post-it note with instructions every time someone besides me has to drive the car for less than a minute.

Building off of this design, you could reverse the default state on the ignition activation relay or choose a different mode on the board, and require pressing the (hidden) button every time to allow activation. Or, just place another inline switch on the BCM starter wire that you have hold on while you press the PTS button on the dash. Those little relay boards are quite versatile!

Lots of ways to skin the cat if you want to add a secondary condition (something you know) to start the car. This was intended to stop what we believe is the primary vector for theft, key cloning after entry (usually with a rock/brick) with readily available tools.

[Jetrep]

very nice work Capricio!

[willzilla]

Pretty slick, nice work

[2018 Blue 1LE]

Originally Posted by slick3

So... when do they go on sale?

[Capricio]

Originally Posted by 2018 Blue 1LE

We both have day jobs in IT that take most of our time. We'd certainly be willing to offer support over the forum or PMs if anyone makes the effort and buys all the parts that were linked. Again, I highly recommend a bench assembly and dry run OUTSIDE of the car first, with a 12V source. I guess I could talk to J and see if he's willing to package something up and cut wires to length with labels. But I suppose we'd have to agree on a price before we went to all that trouble.

I tried to explain most of the steps with some detail, and I think the bench video shows the overall connectively pretty well (minus the fuse block, which was added later). Is there a portion we could try to explain a bit better, or make more clear? We hit a number of pitfalls and failed attempts so having the successful build documented here should save a LOT of time figuring it out.

[Roddrz]

CRITICAL SAFETY ALERT: Vehicle Control System Warning

DO NOT modify or install kill switches involving Wire #15 (Green/Violet) in the Black Harness connected to the Body Control Module (BCM) under the dash on the Drivers' Side.

DO NOT implement this design DIY Anti-theft alarm and starter disable that uses wire #15.
The design creates a single point of failure that poses significant safety risks.

Wire #15 (Green/Violet) is NOT for the Starter motor control.
Wire #15 controls the ECM, BCM and Relay K2 Run/Crank.

DANGER: Interrupting Wire #15 will:

1. Disable critical vehicle control systems (ECM/BCM)
2. Cause complete vehicle shutdown while in operation

The design disables ALL control systems including:

• Engine
• Brakes
• Steering
• Vehicle controls
• Air Bags

[Capricio]

Originally Posted by Roddrz

CRITICAL SAFETY ALERT: Vehicle Control System Warning

DO NOT modify or install kill switches involving Wire #15 (Green/Violet) in the Black Harness connected to the Body Control Module (BCM) under the dash on the Drivers' Side.

DO NOT implement this design DIY Anti-theft alarm and starter disable that uses wire #15.
The design creates a single point of failure that poses significant safety risks.

Wire #15 (Green/Violet) is NOT for the Starter motor control.
Wire #15 controls the ECM, BCM and Relay K2 Run/Crank.

DANGER: Interrupting Wire #15 will:

1. Disable critical vehicle control systems (ECM/BCM)
2. Cause complete vehicle shutdown while in operation

The design disables ALL control systems including:

• Engine
• Brakes
• Steering
• Vehicle controls

I don't believe this to be true, but J can follow up with schematics later. The wire interrupts a ground path to the starter relay activation. Our design relies on an interrupt relay in a normally closed at rest/non-energized condition. It only activates/opens when an offending devices is plugged into the decoy port. We have documented video evidence that it doesn't throw any codes or have any secondary effects once the timers expire or the reset button is press.

I admit, I haven't tried stuffing an OBD2 device into the decoy port while driving the car, it never even occurred to me, and I have and still recommend putting a cheap lock over it. But I think it would merely disable the starter, and the car would keep going. ....whatever, I'm not planning for that scenario, why would anyone?

Assume all wiring has been properly terminated. Can you describe a use case, or situation, where simply driving the car can be suddenly interrupted by having our design in place, leaving someone stranded or disabled?

Also, please describe in detail how our implementation is significantly different from the disabling tactics used by more expensive professional/retail products?

[Schlitzed]

Originally Posted by Roddrz

CRITICAL SAFETY ALERT: Vehicle Control System Warning

DO NOT modify or install kill switches involving Wire #15 (Green/Violet) in the Black Harness connected to the Body Control Module (BCM) under the dash on the Drivers' Side.

DO NOT implement this design DIY Anti-theft alarm and starter disable that uses wire #15.
The design creates a single point of failure that poses significant safety risks.

Wire #15 (Green/Violet) is NOT for the Starter motor control.
Wire #15 controls the ECM, BCM and Relay K2 Run/Crank.

DANGER: Interrupting Wire #15 will:

1. Disable critical vehicle control systems (ECM/BCM)
2. Cause complete vehicle shutdown while in operation

The design disables ALL control systems including:

• Engine
• Brakes
• Steering
• Vehicle controls

The testing that I conducted prior to using pin 15 removed the connectivity only to the starter relay coil under the hood, specifically during the start sequence.

I would like to point out that our design however, is not a single point of failure. The car does not rely on our system to start, run, or run normally. It bypasses the passlock system also, the intent is to reduce the possibility of engine lockout, relearning, and other impacts that can happen with passlock.

We did not, and have not observed any engine codes, unexpected behavior, anomalies, or concerns. I believe this wire does feed the state/mode of the engine, such as Off/Run/Crank/Start for the electrical systems you are talking about. But again, Our design allows the BCM to be normally connected. You would have to plug an OBDII device into the dummy port while the car was running to even interrupt that wire.

I was MECP certified and performed custom car installations for years prior to joining the military. Not to say that I can't make a mistake though, so I would appreciate the sources for your concern so I can verify and remedy. There are more ways to interrupt the starter than this wire and I can find another one. In the past I would validate these types of wires but start with directechs database information. Unfortunately, without being a volume seller for aftermarket DEI alarms they do not allow access to the database. Because of this I had to go off the information that was available to us at the time.

Looking forward to figuring this out and making sure there is a safe and functional way for folks to add additional security measures to their vehicles.

[Roddrz]

Originally Posted by Schlitzed

The testing that I conducted prior to using pin 15 removed the connectivity only to the starter relay coil under the hood, specifically during the start sequence.

I would like to point out that our design however, is not a single point of failure. The car does not rely on our system to start, run, or run normally. It bypasses the passlock system also, the intent is to reduce the possibility of engine lockout, relearning, and other impacts that can happen with passlock.

We did not, and have not observed any engine codes, unexpected behavior, anomalies, or concerns. I believe this wire does feed the state/mode of the engine, such as Off/Run/Crank/Start for the electrical systems you are talking about. But again, Our design allows the BCM to be normally connected. You would have to plug an OBDII device into the dummy port while the car was running to even interrupt that wire.

The vehicle enters into 100% system shutdown after disconnecting pin 15 while the vehicle is running.
It matters if pin 15 is disconnected accidentally while driving the vehicle.

The timer relay in your design can be triggered by static, ground noise, failed electronic component, etc. Furthermore, lightning strikes can induce electromagnetic interference (EMI) in electronic devices.

Since you can control pin 15, please let us know what happens to your vehicle after disconnecting pin 15 while the vehicle is in operation? Do not drive the car while disconnecting pin 15.

I've buttoned up the BCM harness and will not be experimenting with pin 15 any longer.

Your design also connects the OBD2 port's, Pin 4 and Pin 5 together, Chassis Ground to Signal/Digital Ground, respectively, which could be a design issue for this use case. Chassis Ground is not the same as Signal Ground.

By using just a modified harness to split the OBD2 for a dummy port and service port, the wireless relay dongle to control a signal and the BCM cover plate, I decided to implement a safe secure solution that disconnects the OBD2 GMLAN CAN bus from programming keys. The entire solution takes less than an hour to install.

Unfortunately, I cannot market this product because the wireless dongle is not like a unique key for a door lock. The dongle is the door lock/latch without a unique key and would be the same dongle for everyone.

Schematic showing that pin 15 controls the ECM, BCM and K2 for a bank of fuses and the second schematic shows that the ECM controls the Starter Relay Coil.