[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by radz28

Thicker walls are why GM went with 6.2 and not 7.0 for LS9.

Darton sleeves are stronger than thin wall aluminum casting…

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by oldman

https://katechengines.com/i-30498219...hortblock.html
I don't know what the specs on the crank are but Katech says upto 1200 HP.

That is Katechs shortblock package HP rating which is usually conservative. There are other sources that have stated the 6.6 crank itself can handle 1500hp. In a short block you have other things to consider such as the rods and sleeves...etc for power ratings. I was just stating what the crank itself was capable of and can be had for a reasonable price.

[Cichoskiss]

Originally Posted by oldman

GM says the LT1 crank is limited and hence produced a new crank for 650 HP; hence many guys since the gotta buy a crank anyway go for a stroker. I would think the smaller engine with a stronger crank (and a little more RPM) would be the more dependable way to get where you wanna go. I would go for a custom crank, that said the LT4 crank is minimal for the application, don't even waste time on a LT1 crank. Tell me about lifter failure? Was it the stock AFM or was it the classic LS7 lifter failure?

The ls7s were used during the cam swap wish I would have uses the Johnsons now.

[Cichoskiss]

Just want to say thanks to you all for the information.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

Darton sleeves are stronger than thin wall aluminum casting…

You are darn right! Is ERL still doing their Superdeck blocks? Maybe that's not the right name...

[jlaudio11]

Originally Posted by oldman

I'd would for a street fueled car take a smaller engine spun higher say 7200 RPM, the side wall loading is less (better rod angle), there is less chance at detonation at higher RPM, and the engine needs to produce less overall torque to make the 1000 HP and it is torque not HP that blows up the crank and drivetrain. Take two extreme examples. First a twin turbo n the small side heavily overdriven on a 416 CID, that engine may make say 850 ft -lbs of torque (or more like 1000 plus LOL), on the other would be a F centri on a 6.2 turned to 7400 RPM, for the say 1000 Hp it may "only" make 650 ft /lbs, which is stock LT4 level. I'm doing this off the cuff so take this as stated an extreme example. Torque breaks stuff including crank, rods, pistons and drivetrain, and torque is directly related to cylinder pressure where there are further issues on pump fuel. RPM, yea well there are issues there, I feel comfortable at 7200 RPM with high quality valvetrain and a proper ramp / lift camshaft.

One additional benefit to me is the sound of a V8 at full chat shift at 7200 RPM is pure glory, no matter the dyno HP or anything else. Heck I would like to see a true sequential equal length header made for the car (would require two header tubes to pass under the oil pan).

I believe procharger has a 6 rib setup for the F series.

Nivlac57 on youtube (Calvin Nelson) is building an old studebaker with an lt engine in it. He just made a sequential equal length exhaust like you're talking about. I thought the idea was awesome, the sound coming out of it wasn't that great in my opinion though.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by radz28

You are darn right! Is ERL still doing their Superdeck blocks? Maybe that's not the right name...

Well Noonan billet block is the way to go if you’ve got an extra $14K burning a hole in your pocket lol… Concept Performance now has a super beefcake aluminum block with a bunch of improvements over OEM block for about half the Noonan cost and that’s probably the way I’ll go when the time comes.