[FlukeSS]

Shop mechanic said its not likely to be a valve, because when he tried to turn the crank it would not spin forward or backwards.

[ctrlz]

Based on what I'm reading here, I would suggest pulling the plugs first and looking in each cylinder with an inspection cam.

[FlukeSS]

Originally Posted by ctrlz

Based on what I'm reading here, I would suggest pulling the plugs first and looking in each cylinder with an inspection cam.

I may do that, but right now I have to tow the car back to my house as the shop is not equipped to work on internals "so they say"

Which is fine, take the good with the bad when it comes to modifying a vehicle.

[LT4Greg]

Fluke, since you are in Michigan I would contact either Katech or Livernois and talk to them about your LT1. I seriously doubt a dealership would touch it since it’s modded and you don’t have a warranty on the engine anymore. Good luck!

[FlukeSS]

I just called Motorcity Speed - Billy Briggs Racing Engines.

Explained the situation to them, and they said they can take a look and troubleshoot the issue to figure out why the engine locked and at least give me an idea of cost of repair.

Even he said it was odd the engine locked because the mods I have are not anything out of the ordinary.

[adamjwilson]

Good luck! Hope everything turns out OK with not too much of a hit on the wallet
(+1 for KaTech- always provided great service to me)
On a lighter note... so who won? you or the other Camaro when you did those pulls?

[Gunkk]

Yeah I agree to start with a bore inspection, especially if the rings weren't gapped. If nothing obvious, then a bearing check.

[FlukeSS]

Just talked to them again, he said chances are its a spun main barring. He said from the manufacturer they come with tight tolerances and when you start adding power they tend to fail.

So if that is the case new engine is the next step I guess.

I told them to troubleshoot and get a confirmation on what caused the lock up. Its worth spending the money to figure out what I should do or consider doing next.

[Yang N’ Bang]

Fingers crossed for you, hopefully wont be too bad.

[FlukeSS]

I did find this on Engine Builder website regarding a spun barring.

It doesn’t matter what type of bearing is involved, be it aluminum or a babbitt-faced tri-metal, because all types melt start to melt around 450 degrees F or so. A babbitt overlay on a tri-metal bearing offers good seizure resistance, but once it goes away the copper layer underneath lacks seizure resistance. Consequently, if there is enough scuffing, friction and heat due to a lack of lubrication, the bearing will melt, smear and stick to the crank journal. At that point you get a seized or spun bearing with whatever additional damage it causes.

Although this may happen suddenly, often there has been an ongoing lubrication problem that has caused a bearing to scuff, run hot and overheat. This can discolor the crank journal and/or blacken the big end of the rod. So if you tear down an engine and see such signs of overheating, it’s a solid clue that the engine has an oiling issue that needs to be identified and corrected before it’s put back together.

To be fair, I don't recall ever seeing an oil pressure issue nor indications of it prior to the issue happening.

From what this describes its something that happens over time not just instantly.

I never had an excessive amount of coolant temp, or oil pressure indicator issues.

Hoping it might be some sign of good news not to be a spun barring, as I very much would prefer it not be that.

[Katech_Mike]

Simply cutting open the oil filter will reveal if the engine spun a bearing.

[Wyzz Kydd]

What a bummer. Hope it isn't too expensive.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by Katech_Mike

Simply cutting open the oil filter will reveal if the engine spun a bearing.

That’s good advice and at least you will get an answer right away if you see metal specs.

[Johnfin]

Is this a 2020 2SS that bit the dust?