[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by RCwhat

I’ll make a wildly unpopular suggestion, leave the car as is and spend the money on a cheap daily driver. You’re about to go down a very dangerous path if this is your only car as you stated. What happens if you sink all your cash into the engine build and something unexpected happens like a blown transmission or something, and now the dealer won’t warranty it due to all the modifications???

OP already installed headers plus a CAI, and the dealership warned him they'd refuse warranty work, so that ship has sailed. Also, he seems knowledgeable and got good advice here, so it looks like this is going to be another built Camaro

[GTO_Gregory]

As an alternative lifter you might want to check out the Cadillac racing lifter PN 88958689.
They're about $530.00 a set and a GM product for the ALMS engines.

[6spdhyperblue]

Originally Posted by GTO_Gregory

As an alternative lifter you might want to check out the Cadillac racing lifter PN 88958689.
They're about $530.00 a set and a GM product for the ALMS engines.

Is there anything new regarding noise between these and the Johnson’s

[CJZ-SS1LE]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

OP already installed headers plus a CAI, and the dealership warned him they'd refuse warranty work, so that ship has sailed. Also, he seems knowledgeable and got good advice here, so it looks like this is going to be another built Camaro

I already plan on a daily driver that i can use when i need to. Something 4x4 small old toyota pickup or something. As for my camaro i am an ASE mechanic and can fix most things i am basically tryin to do the lifters the way they shoulda come from the factory so i dont have to worry bout them. While in there why not a nice small cam like the BTR 220 or 225. The A10 is a very strong robust trans im not worried bout that. As for my warranty headers an cai didnt void my old 2002 SS so didnt think anything of it. It use to be anything bolton was ok but they told me anything that changes from factory can void warranty. Is it voided at the moment .... no havent been told it is but im not removing the headers and cai.

So alas i will make the car the way i want it and just enjoy have been a mechanic for 25 years only changed careers to medical 6 yrs ago. I still love doing things on my own and loved building n tuning my old LS motors. But with the VVT on the new LT motors i dont wanna mess anything up so while i could do the cam id rather someone knowledgable that has experience and can dyno tune it after, do it.

I dont know which lifters ill do ill leave that to the builder.

[L78toLT1]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Some get lucky with LS7's others don't. Morels are a good budget friendly option. I have had good luck with them in the past. Johnson's are obviously the best.

The reason why LS7 lifters are popular because they make setting up the valvetrain easier since the window for proper lifter preload is wider. With lifters like Johnson, the window is much narrower and in some cases custom push rod lengths are needed to get into the proper preload range.

I had to go with custom pushrods in my Morel lifter / CID head combo.

[6spdhyperblue]

So what’s the real world difference between the Btr 220 and 225

What’s the idle speed for each?

The 225 doesn’t seem to make much more power at all. Like 10hp more but the 220 makes 10 more under 3k rpm. 220 seems like it pushes the curve to the left 150rpm

For a m6 is it a given to go for the 225?

[CJZ-SS1LE]

Originally Posted by 6spdhyperblue

So what’s the real world difference between the Btr 220 and 225

What’s the idle speed for each?

The 225 doesn’t seem to make much more power at all. Like 10hp more but the 220 makes 10 more under 3k rpm. 220 seems like it pushes the curve to the left 150rpm

For a m6 is it a given to go for the 225?

I agree with you and with the 220 itll be more stock stall friendly as well im leaning that way.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by 6spdhyperblue

So what’s the real world difference between the Btr 220 and 225

What’s the idle speed for each?

The 225 doesn’t seem to make much more power at all. Like 10hp more but the 220 makes 10 more under 3k rpm. 220 seems like it pushes the curve to the left 150rpm

For a m6 is it a given to go for the 225?

There usually isn't big gains in cam shafts once you are above 220 on the intake side. At least if you are trying to keep the power range similar to stock. That is really the sweet spot for stock stall and rpm range up to 67-6800rpm. As you mention the 225 power curve starts shifting to the right. Then you need a bigger stall, and ideally an intake manifold to match. 230's on up really need something like a High Ram and 7200+ rpm, but the low speed tip in part throttle stuff is really soft unless you up the compression a lot. Then you are stuck with high octane fuel. Thank the lord for 2.50 a gallon E85 because that 14.00 a gallon 104 race gas would suck.

I do think a V225 would be perfectly fine for a M6 but on the edge for a stock stall car.