[TrackClub]

My 2 cents based on 17 and now 20 SS 1LE and 65 track days (plus many more with other track cars incl competitive events) at several different venues (and decent laptimes as compared to others):

1. Get the GM deflectors as per the post above! Read Matthew's post: words of wisdom!
2. Ditch the 600 fluid as others have also boiled it for some reason (a few older posts on that). Go with 660, or better yet: SRF (the best), or Willwood EXP (also excellent imo).
3. Avoid high torque pads, as they will put out tons of heat and without vented pistons and extra cooling you will bake and boil things: guaranteed (been there, done it, high torque pads put out tons of heat and it has to go somewhere - shims or no shims). Btw XP10 is NOT a high torque pad, being pretty much on par with SS 1LE Ferodo stockers (with virtually identical feel and performance, yet worse longevity).
4. Avoid running a lesser torque pad in the rear for 2 reasons: it will make fronts do more work completely unnecessarily and make the car understeer more on entry. That's like moving brake bias to the front on a race car. Note the Camaro master cylinder and brake proportioning system is DESIGNED for the same torque pads front and rear for best performance overall (braking and handling wise). Any reseller/shop that recommends staggering the torque F vs R doesn't know squat about Camaros.

PS After trying 3 different pads just for the heck of it (including some heavy duty "advertising" here of one specific pad), i went back to stock Ferodos and never looked back. I had never faded them regardless of venue, or length of session (up to 45mins) and never baked, or boiled anything with full stock brakes otherwise. Having said that, 2500s would likely be a step up and DTC60s likely the most torque I'd go with personally. But again, i see no reason for it per se. Note I used to run DSUNOs on my C5Z for many yrs, so i do know what higher torque pads are about.

Hope this helps. Cheers!

[Mountain]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

My 2 cents based on 17 and now 20 SS 1LE and 65 track days (plus many more with other track cars incl competitive events) at several different venues (and decent laptimes as compared to others):

1. Get the GM deflectors as per the post above! Read Matthew's post: words of wisdom!
2. Ditch the 600 fluid as others have also boiled it for some reason (a few older posts on that). Go with 660, or better yet: SRF (the best), or Willwood EXP (also excellent imo).
3. Avoid high torque pads, as they will put out tons of heat and without vented pistons and extra cooling you will bake and boil things: guaranteed (been there, done it, high torque pads put out tons of heat and it has to go somewhere - shims or no shims). Btw XP10 is NOT a high torque pad, being pretty much on par with SS 1LE Ferodo stockers (with virtually identical feel and performance, yet worse longevity).
4. Avoid running a lesser torque pad in the rear for 2 reasons: it will make fronts do more work completely unnecessarily and make the car understeer more on entry. That's like moving brake bias to the front on a race car. Note the Camaro master cylinder and brake proportioning system is DESIGNED for the same torque pads front and rear for best performance overall (braking and handling wise). Any reseller/shop that recommends staggering the torque F vs R doesn't know squat about Camaros.

PS After trying 3 different pads just for the heck of it (including some heavy duty "advertising" here of one specific pad), i went back to stock Ferodos and never looked back. I had never faded them regardless of venue, or length of session (up to 45mins) and never baked, or boiled anything with full stock brakes otherwise. Having said that, 2500s would likely be a step up and DTC60s likely the most torque I'd go with personally. But again, i see no reason for it per se. Note I used to run DSUNOs on my C5Z for many yrs, so i do know what higher torque pads are about.

Hope this helps. Cheers!

Agree here and am surprised that the Turbo 1LE does not have the complete brake ducting. That would be #1 on your list - get the factory brake ducting in there, and add in the SS track deflector/rotor shield kit. #2 would be going to a brake fluid like Brembo, Endless, Ferodo or Castrol. #3 would be what TrackClub said on brake pads (the bias is largely electronically controlled in the Camaro).

[kropscamaro16]

i have motul 660 fluid goodridge brake lines and dtc60 and no issues here but last track day was first time with hawk dtc60 and holy shit that took some getting used to abs liked to kick on really hard with those pads

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

i have motul 660 fluid goodridge brake lines and dtc60 and no issues here but last track day was first time with hawk dtc60 and holy shit that took some getting used to abs liked to kick on really hard with those pads

You bring up a very important point: it is not brakes that stop a car, but the tires. Most reputable race shops and brake manufacturers make a direct connection between pad torque and tire grip levels. Most resellers just want to push the newest product (almost always high torgue product) because that's what sells and brings food on the table.
It is completely counterproductive to have pads which can easily overwhelm the tires by engaging ABS, as that, by and large, makes trailbraking much more difficult, if not outright impossible. And without effective trailbraking it is extremely hard to manage weight transfer and balance, and hence overall entry speeds. And with that, overall laptimes, for very obvious reasons. Glad you brought it up. Cheers!

[kropscamaro16]

yup now i need some sticky icky 3rs to go with my new fancy pads! baby steps lol

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

yup now i need some sticky icky 3rs to go with my new fancy pads! baby steps lol

Can't go wrong with this plan, except for tire budget

[weemus]

I second being leery about going to very high mu pads. I can out brake a friend with ST47s on his 1LE versus the stock pads strictly though trail braking. His hit harder and much more aggressive (think on/off switch) but its not necessarily faster. Release and modulation are where its at.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by weemus

I second being leery about going to very high mu pads. I can out brake a friend with ST47s on his 1LE versus the stock pads strictly though trail braking. His hit harder and much more aggressive (think on/off switch) but its not necessarily faster. Release and modulation are where its at.

Words of wisdom. Period. Full stop. Fast laps are not about stopping faster sooner, but rather deeper to rotate into a corner without inducing neither under, nor oversteer. Without proper modulation and release that's extremely difficult if not impossible to accomplish. And not only for us mortals btw.