[BlaqWhole]

I kinda agree with you both but...at the same boost, if one blower is smaller and spinning it's little heart out vs a larger blower that is spinning much less and pushing more air thru...then even tho they are at the same boost I kinda suspect that the larger blower will make more power. If anything then it will be due to less heat. Not for nothing, but GM had to do a lot of alterations and revisions on the LT4 blower to get it to operate similar to the outgoing LS9. And the LT4 blower is kinda maxed from the factory.

But I would say it mainly depends on cost. If money is an issue then sticking with the stock blower might be better. If money is no object then go for the blower swap. I chose to go with the bigger blower because down the road I might want more in which case it would be wasting money if I spent anything on the stock blower. The 2650 and even the 2.9 Whipple will easily make over 1000 to the wheels. So for an extra few thousand bucks it is worth it to me. For someone else it might not be.

[BlaqWhole]

The biggest concern is cost efficiency. The way I see it, why have the car down twice and the same work done over again, and wasting money on the stock blower just to in the future discover that you want more? Doing a blower swap means downtime, taking a whole bunch of stuff off...might as well go ahead and do a cam and ported heads and LTs and the whole shebang while you're in there. Do it all once and call it a day. Otherwise if you do decide to turn it up you're gonna end up paying more in labor costs. A blower swap by itself with no other mods is not really a cost effective mod for our cars. Maybe for the Hellcats and GT500s it is. But we need other stuff to get the most benefit from the blower. So just do it all.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by BlaqWhole

I kinda agree with you both but...at the same boost, if one blower is smaller and spinning it's little heart out vs a larger blower that is spinning much less and pushing more air thru...then even tho they are at the same boost I kinda suspect that the larger blower will make more power. If anything then it will be due to less heat. Not for nothing, but GM had to do a lot of alterations and revisions on the LT4 blower to get it to operate similar to the outgoing LS9. And the LT4 blower is kinda maxed from the factory.

But I would say it mainly depends on cost. If money is an issue then sticking with the stock blower might be better. If money is no object then go for the blower swap. I chose to go with the bigger blower because down the road I might want more in which case it would be wasting money if I spent anything on the stock blower. The 2650 and even the 2.9 Whipple will easily make over 1000 to the wheels. So for an extra few thousand bucks it is worth it to me. For someone else it might not be.

Yes as boost goes up the larger blower will run away from the stock blower, this we know for sure.

There is another layer to consider, OCTANE, these engines are Knock Limited at stock boost levels on pump gas.

Of coarse that all goes away on Race fuel or E50.

This is why following my recommendation of Power through efficiency is so beneficial it raises the Octane Limit of power.

Ted.

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by BlaqWhole

The biggest concern is cost efficiency. The way I see it, why have the car down twice and the same work done over again, and wasting money on the stock blower just to in the future discover that you want more? Doing a blower swap means downtime, taking a whole bunch of stuff off...might as well go ahead and do a cam and ported heads and LTs and the whole shebang while you're in there. Do it all once and call it a day. Otherwise if you do decide to turn it up you're gonna end up paying more in labor costs. A blower swap by itself with no other mods is not really a cost effective mod for our cars. Maybe for the Hellcats and GT500s it is. But we need other stuff to get the most benefit from the blower. So just do it all.

Agree 100%. Which is why I went straight with the blower first. Most people I know that did all that work on their stock blowers are now pulling them off and swapping blowers.

Ted your package is good I admit, but you need to Run ethanol. As I said it’s not available in most places. It’s great for keeping mostly stock with simple bolt ons as you said like headers etc.

Knock issues can be addressed by mixtures of race fuels and/or additives like Boostane or race gas.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

Agree 100%. Which is why I went straight with the blower first. Most people I know that did all that work on their stock blowers are now pulling them off and swapping blowers.

Ted your package is good I admit, but you need to Run ethanol. As I said it’s not available in most places. It’s great for keeping mostly stock with simple bolt ons as you said like headers etc.

Knock issues can be addressed by mixtures of race fuels and/or additives like Boostane or race gas.

No sir you do not need to run Ethanol this package makes big gains on pump gas as well 620-640 on 91-93 octane.

I am not knocking your choice but if you have not addressed the efficiency on the exhaust side you are throwing shit against the tide.

I would love to sell everyone a 2650 but unless the supporting mods are in place it doesn't make sense until they are.

Ted.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

No sir you do not need to run Ethanol this package makes big gains on pump gas as well 620-640 on 91-93 octane.

I am not knocking your choice but if you have not addressed the efficiency on the exhaust side you are throwing shit against the tide.

I would love to sell everyone a 2650 but unless the supporting mods are in place it doesn't make sense until they are.

Ted.

All it takes is one look at the stock exhaust manifold collector size and where it connects to the cats to see how restrictive the stock exhaust is. I was honestly shocked coming from a Hellcat which has a VERY good exhaust from the factory. Its amazing to me that GM was able to get 650hp out of these engines with the stock exhaust manifolds. Everything about the exhaust on these cars looks restrictive, even the cats are tiny and then further back there's the crimped pipes.

[EDFHOBBIES]

Originally Posted by CamaroSS1LItaly

Hello
Curious to know how much hp can gain a 2020 camaro zl1 10 speed with only a Magnuson 2650 and cat back system like Corsa or Borla and tune of course.
100 more hp?
Callaway with just SC swap did 100 hp more....

Thanks for the answeres

I did the 2650 Edlebrock I wouldn't look at dyno numbers since they will not show all that much different numbers than tuning the 1.7 with the same fuel system. The 2650 will probably extend the fuel system 40 rwhp over a modded 1.7L whether it being a E setup or pulley swap.(not from boost but more flow)

However you will notice while you beat on it, it keeps pulling and pulling vs the 1.7 just doesn't have that much in the upper band. (probably because it can't move that much air but most likely from IATs getting hot and timing starting to interfere)

[EDFHOBBIES]

Question for Ted..

Any information on just installing the maggi with a fuel system like the XDI or a Eforce w Port injection? just wondering looking at some of the ZR1 builds they are making good numbers w headers, pulleys and bigger injectors not even going inside the motor..


Seems like the money saved on a cam swap could go towards a fuel system maybe come out better if its a number someone is shooting at?

[laynlo15]

I can tell you that going from a 2300 Maggie on 17-18 lbs of boost and went to the 2650 Maggie on 14 lbs of boost and made over 80 more rwhp. There were absolutely no other changes other then fine tuning and larger pulley change. That was on a 80mm pulley since no one was making a 75 or a 70 yet. Same fuel, same timing but we tweaked the PE. We also went from 150 degree IATs to 110 logging each run at the track and on the dyno. Plus went from 9.80s@140 (2300) to 9.41@146 (2650)and its run faster since those days. The new owner has been in the 9.30s letting off and mid 5.80s 1/8 with my tuning. I never pay any attention to the dyno numbers compared to track times, you need the dyno for fine tuning. Wish I had it back, my C7 feels pretty slow running 11.18@125.

[KingLT1]

I can see that because the 2300 runs hot even at 14psi let alone spinning to where it's making 18psi on a H/C car.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I can see that because the 2300 runs hot even at 14psi let alone spinning to where it's making 18psi on a H/C car.

For sure.

[CamaroSS1LItaly]

I live in Italy, I don't have E85 unfortunately...
The main problem is if I broke something the car will wait months before a part comes, so I want to stay as reliable as possible. I saw a CSP video about a callaway zl1 that claims to have 750 hp just by changing the SC, but Janetty says or other people, it's too much for stock fuel capacity, so I can consider to port just stock SC, snout, add a 103mm TB with Roto fab, interchiller and headers and upper pulley...should have 650 rwhp (maybe more, standard Italy fuel is 95 octane), I opened the thread because I was thinking of changing only the supercharger with the maggy 2650 'cause of a better cooling capacity and also because it is bigger, so I would have changed only a catback and the car would have remained with the usual sound without exaggerating and attracting the attention of the police here, but seeing videos I was wrong, or maybe I can put a bigger upper fuel pump without add a booster pump ( but I couldn't solve the problem)

[swisstyphoon]

Originally Posted by CamaroSS1LItaly

I live in Italy, I don't have E85 unfortunately...
The main problem is if I broke something the car will wait months before a part comes, so I want to stay as reliable as possible. I saw a CSP video about a callaway zl1 that claims to have 750 hp just by changing the SC, but Janetty says or other people, it's too much for stock fuel capacity, so I can consider to port just stock SC, snout, add a 103mm TB with Roto fab, interchiller and headers and upper pulley...should have 650 rwhp (maybe more, standard Italy fuel is 95 octane), I opened the thread because I was thinking of changing only the supercharger with the maggy 2650 'cause of a better cooling capacity and also because it is bigger, so I would have changed only a catback and the car would have remained with the usual sound without exaggerating and attracting the attention of the police here, but seeing videos I was wrong, or maybe I can put a bigger upper fuel pump without add a booster pump ( but I couldn't solve the problem)

Hello

The European fuel rating is different from the US.
You would have to run 98 EU fuel, to be equivalent with 93 US!
I have a pulley and tune on mine, runs good, but I already want more.. lol
I also looked into just putting a 2650 on mine, but after some research I deceided, to do cam, heads, new oil pump, low side fuel pump booster etc. along with it. With an aftermarked camshaft you will address the fuel issue. The high pressure pump is driven by a camshaft lobe, that can be increased with a different cam.
If you don't have anyone around you, that is capable to work on your motor, there is a guy in Austria that does great work on LS and LT engines. Google Heinz Schenk ccrp https://www.coolchevy-raceparts.com/...e-contact.html

Do you have a ZL1, or SS?
Your profile says 2020 SS...

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by CamaroSS1LItaly

I live in Italy, I don't have E85 unfortunately...
The main problem is if I broke something the car will wait months before a part comes, so I want to stay as reliable as possible. I saw a CSP video about a callaway zl1 that claims to have 750 hp just by changing the SC, but Janetty says or other people, it's too much for stock fuel capacity, so I can consider to port just stock SC, snout, add a 103mm TB with Roto fab, interchiller and headers and upper pulley...should have 650 rwhp (maybe more, standard Italy fuel is 95 octane), I opened the thread because I was thinking of changing only the supercharger with the maggy 2650 'cause of a better cooling capacity and also because it is bigger, so I would have changed only a catback and the car would have remained with the usual sound without exaggerating and attracting the attention of the police here, but seeing videos I was wrong, or maybe I can put a bigger upper fuel pump without add a booster pump ( but I couldn't solve the problem)

I have provided the path and recipe to success with great sound control providing you stay with stock muffler everything forward is replaced.

I own and operate a speed shop I built my Personal ZL-1 1Le so it can do everything to the best of it's ability.

I found all the inefficiencies and eliminated them which rewarded us with a very efficient power package that will maintain max performance under the most grueling venues.

Reliability is at the forefront of my decisions on part selection.

No pullies, No porting, not aftermarket heat exchangers, interchillers needed.

The more stuff you change the more risk you induce.

Your 95 octane is the same as our 91 octane so you will be knock limited no matter what you choose and more boost will hurt you more than help you.

I am bringing over 40 years of building performance vehicles to the table here, What you do with the information is up to you.

Ted.