[TheRealJA105]

Originally Posted by Val Walkinshaw

Help me understand your view.
1) what's wrong with the toe?
2) how much more camber can I get out of the front end?

I was under the car yesterday looking at the rear camber bolts noticing his red line vs GMs blue line and where they were set. I haven't been under the front yet.

You will have to reset your toe after readjusting your camber, nothing is wrong with it.

Originally Posted by VinnAY

Can you get 2 degree's in an SS without camber bolts etc etc I have a 1LE so unsure what/where you can get a standard SS dialed in to, stock.

Yes, mine is at -2.3

[Val Walkinshaw]

I texted my guy and shared with him the concerns I have. I inquired about the unusual setup regarding camber and toe. This is his response:

Well I've seen many forum experts over the years and almost all of them think that "their" preferred alignment specs are "the best"!alignment specs - I can assure you that your driving style, environment and even types of racing probably do not match the forum experts. Finding the best spec for YOU is all about stating with a setup, driving the car over a period of time and variety of events and then making changes and testing again. There's a reason that multiple car race teams will set cars up differently for each particular driver. On top of that I've seen forum experts that are drag racers and road racers tell autocrossers what they should run - even though those sports are very different in regards to set up.

Getting your cars alignment to match your driving style is the key, and that will take a period of time, lots of feedback from you, changes, and testing. When I was really active I would test anywhere from 5 to 10 different settings on each of my cars until I settled on settings that I felt were best for me. When we've shared cars we'd always set the alignments for whichever driver was generally fastest - the slower co-driver would just have to deal with it. You have to remember that we're also considering that your car is street driven and not a dedicated autocross car, that makes a difference.

[Val Walkinshaw]

Originally Posted by TheRealJA105

Pull the front wheels and max your front camber yourself. Make sure to take the top bolt completely out of the strut before you push the knuckle all the way in because the bolt is splined and won't allow full adjustment without removal. Then go back to the alignment shop and have them fix your toe and tell them not to touch your camber.

Originally Posted by TheRealJA105

You will have to reset your toe after readjusting your camber, nothing is wrong with it.


Yes, mine is at -2.3

This answered the questions and cleared up some confusion in my noggin.
Thankyou.

[Boost Creep]

lol
I'm not an internet forum expert, but I would try and start with the alignment specs the GM engineers found best from their extensive testing, and go from there.

Like posted, if you knock the front strut bolts loose you should be able to get camber up front a little more negative, closer to what GM calls for.

[VinnAY]

Originally Posted by Val Walkinshaw

I texted my guy and shared with him the concerns I have. I inquired about the unusual setup regarding camber and toe. This is his response:

Well I've seen many forum experts over the years and almost all of them think that "their" preferred alignment specs are "the best"!alignment specs - I can assure you that your driving style, environment and even types of racing probably do not match the forum experts. Finding the best spec for YOU is all about stating with a setup, driving the car over a period of time and variety of events and then making changes and testing again. There's a reason that multiple car race teams will set cars up differently for each particular driver. On top of that I've seen forum experts that are drag racers and road racers tell autocrossers what they should run - even though those sports are very different in regards to set up.

Getting your cars alignment to match your driving style is the key, and that will take a period of time, lots of feedback from you, changes, and testing. When I was really active I would test anywhere from 5 to 10 different settings on each of my cars until I settled on settings that I felt were best for me. When we've shared cars we'd always set the alignments for whichever driver was generally fastest - the slower co-driver would just have to deal with it. You have to remember that we're also considering that your car is street driven and not a dedicated autocross car, that makes a difference.

That's a lot of words to say he doesn't want your business.

[TheRealJA105]

Originally Posted by VinnAY

That's a lot of words to say he doesn't want your business.

Yeah, not sure why he thinks ANYONE should run more rear camber on a front engine - rear drive car???

[driven2exceSS]

Maaaaaybe because this is the alignment guy's car?

[Nothing like an SS]

Originally Posted by driven2exceSS

Maaaaaybe because this is the alignment guy's car?

Looks like a giant stepped on it!!!! LOL!!!!

[Boost Creep]

Originally Posted by driven2exceSS

Maaaaaybe because this is the alignment guy's car?

Why does it have to have a PA tag.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Val Walkinshaw

I texted my guy and shared with him the concerns I have. I inquired about the unusual setup regarding camber and toe. This is his response:

Well I've seen many forum experts over the years and almost all of them think that "their" preferred alignment specs are "the best"!alignment specs - I can assure you that your driving style, environment and even types of racing probably do not match the forum experts. Finding the best spec for YOU is all about stating with a setup, driving the car over a period of time and variety of events and then making changes and testing again. There's a reason that multiple car race teams will set cars up differently for each particular driver. On top of that I've seen forum experts that are drag racers and road racers tell autocrossers what they should run - even though those sports are very different in regards to set up.

Getting your cars alignment to match your driving style is the key, and that will take a period of time, lots of feedback from you, changes, and testing. When I was really active I would test anywhere from 5 to 10 different settings on each of my cars until I settled on settings that I felt were best for me. When we've shared cars we'd always set the alignments for whichever driver was generally fastest - the slower co-driver would just have to deal with it. You have to remember that we're also considering that your car is street driven and not a dedicated autocross car, that makes a difference.

Val, do NOT go back to that guy. Period. Full stop.
Maybe he thought your SS was a new C8 since he set it up for a mid engine car? Basically the alignment is reversed F vs R. Way too much in the rear hence you see improper wear there. As much as some of his comments are valid in theory for a serious RACE team, nobody here adjusts alignment several times a season! I had mine done once and run the car for 3 yrs and 60 track days with perfect balance and great tire wear.

Moreover, no matter how great a gal you may be, getting an alignment for free is highly unusual and maybe his strategy to talk you into having it changed 5 or 10 times meaning you will then OVER PAY 5 or 10 times for a service that should be done well and ONCE.

Find another shop asap, or even take it to a GM dealer and take the shot of the GM track specs offered above and bring them with ya.

The key on the Camaro is to max the F camber using stock bolts and then dial R with about 1 degree difference. As an example i have 2.6F and 1.6R.

For the toe, i would suggest 0 in the F and total toe in of 0.10 in the R. Note: running 0 in the R usually makes the car feel rather loose (definitely NOT for anyone without tons of experience, if ever).

Here is an instruction how to max the F camber on stock bolts posted by a forum member a while back. Take it with you to whatever shop you happend to take your car to so they will know how to accomplish it. Note this also explains why an "adjustment bolt" is NOT needed if proper procedure is followed. Cheers!

Loosen the 2 strut-to-knuckle bolts/nuts
-->Here's the important part that average shops can't seem to wrap their head around:
*Hammer the bolt a little bit to loosen it from the knuckle. Splines on the bolt OD grip the knuckle otherwise making the alignment nearly impossible. If you don't get the 2 strut bolts loose, the alignment isn't going to happen without...guess what...that stupid "adjustment bolt".
*adjust to taste - snug up strut bolts. You can choose to have the strut bolts "kinda snug" to hold the relationship until it's adjusted satisfactorily. The "adjustment bolt" can kind of help here, but it only limits movement in one direction, meaning the alignment can still drift the other way until the 2 strut bolts are snugged up.
*check alignment, torque strut bolts, verify alignment.

[Boost Creep]

Just want to add the strut bolts are "one time" use TTY bolts.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

Just want to add the strut bolts are "one time" use TTY bolts.

Good call!

[VinnAY]

I think that the TTY alignment bolts has been thoroughly debunked unless you're a devout by-the-book type...

[Scargoes]

Originally Posted by Boost Creep

Just want to add the strut bolts are "one time" use TTY bolts.

I thought it was only the rear camber and toe eccentric bolts that were TTY?


Anyone know if this information is outdated now? https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=502324