[NickyRacerBoy]

Originally Posted by carguy55

Have any pics of what the car looks like now?

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560258

[carguy55]

Love the car and the videos

[NickyRacerBoy]

Originally Posted by carguy55

Love the car and the videos

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by NickyRacerBoy

Here is Go Pro point of view.

Great wheeling!!! Yeah!!! Given you stay in high rpm so often id suggest you consider swapping valve springs at least once per season. Just a suggestion based on my circle track buddies who swap them for every race. Just as a precaution. Cheers and thx for posting!

[NickyRacerBoy]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Great wheeling!!! Yeah!!! Given you stay in high rpm so often id suggest you consider swapping valve springs at least once per season. Just a suggestion based on my circle track buddies who swap them for every race. Just as a precaution. Cheers and thx for posting!

THANKS!
Yeah I will this winter.

I get oil analyzed every drop. I change oil every 4 hours of run time. 15/50 Mobil 1. I log oil psi thru AIM DL plus I look at the Cosworth "vehicle health" too. Never below 30 psi. High is 72.

Since inboard toe rod bolt was loose I will take car to get aligned again...what should I run for rear tow?

Last outing I ran R7 315 30 18 F and their new 315 40 18 R.
The R is tall, 27.2" so the car has more rake then it normally would have. Is that something that I would notice?
I run that tall tire because 5th gear totally suck! I will send trans out to RPM tran to have 5th changes to ZR1 5th gear which is .84 I believe. Tighter will make for smoother shifting too as synchros wont spin so hard.

[oneplustwo]

What's your rev limiter set to? Sounds higher pitched than I would have thought? I don't have perfect pitch or anything, just my initial reaction in hearing you row through the gears. Sounds great regardless!

[NickyRacerBoy]

Originally Posted by oneplustwo

What's your rev limiter set to? Sounds higher pitched than I would have thought? I don't have perfect pitch or anything, just my initial reaction in hearing you row through the gears. Sounds great regardless!

7000

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by NickyRacerBoy

THANKS!
Yeah I will this winter.

I get oil analyzed every drop. I change oil every 4 hours of run time. 15/50 Mobil 1. I log oil psi thru AIM DL plus I look at the Cosworth "vehicle health" too. Never below 30 psi. High is 72.

Since inboard toe rod bolt was loose I will take car to get aligned again...what should I run for rear tow?

Last outing I ran R7 315 30 18 F and their new 315 40 18 R.
The R is tall, 27.2" so the car has more rake then it normally would have. Is that something that I would notice?
I run that tall tire because 5th gear totally suck! I will send trans out to RPM tran to have 5th changes to ZR1 5th gear which is .84 I believe. Tighter will make for smoother shifting too as synchros wont spin so hard.

Short answer: i dont know re rear toe, as it all depends and i dont know what ya ran before.

Long answer: it is all about balance, which consists of several things working is unison:

Entry - rake, toe and brake bias all play a role.
Mid corner - first 2
Exit - first 2

Generally speaking:

More rake - faster rotation on entry. Too much rake will make the car lose.
Less rake always means more stability and faster top speed at the expense of rotation on entry and mid corner.
More rear toe - more stability. Too little toe will make the car lose and often times very lose!
More front brake bias - more stability. Too much front bias will make the car push in entry. Too much rear bias will make it lose on entry.

Having said all that, all these settings work TOGETHER so when changing something it is important to do it one at a time based on how the car feels NOW and then test to see how a change affects the overall balance.

Cheers!

[NickyRacerBoy]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Short answer: i dont know re rear toe, as it all depends and i dont know what ya ran before.

Long answer: it is all about balance, which consists of several things working is unison:

Entry - rake, toe and brake bias all play a role.
Mid corner - first 2
Exit - first 2

Generally speaking:

More rake - faster rotation on entry. Too much rake will make the car lose.
Less rake always means more stability and faster top speed at the expense of rotation on entry and mid corner.
More rear toe - more stability. Too little toe will make the car lose and often times very lose!
More front brake bias - more stability. Too much front bias will make the car push in entry. Too much rear bias will make it lose on entry.

Having said all that, all these settings work TOGETHER so when changing something it is important to do it one at a time based on how the car feels NOW and then test to see how a change affects the overall balance.

Cheers!

Rake on car is a lot like sport bikes then. Lower the fork tubes up in the triple clamps will make bike turn in faster but will be nervous at high speeds...

Now obviously there is no comparison made for tow! LOL

Trackclub I did notices was that understeer was more controllable with throttle then before. Not sure if he newly added areo or the the 40 series

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by NickyRacerBoy

Rake on car is a lot like sport bikes then. Lower the fork tubes up in the triple clamps will make bike turn in faster but will be nervous at high speeds...

Now obviously there is no comparison made for tow! LOL

Trackclub I did notices was that understeer was more controllable with throttle then before. Not sure if he newly added areo or the the 40 series

Id guess it was because the higher rake, which would make the car rotate better and hence respond to throttle steer better. Imo. For aero that would also be true if you ran a bit more front bias vs rear. Same difference balance wise. So you got that piece to figure out as well From the vid the car looks like nicely balanced and pretty easy to wheel (vs the ASA car for example, but that's a different package lol!).

[NickyRacerBoy]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Id guess it was because the higher rake, which would make the car rotate better and hence respond to throttle steer better. Imo. For aero that would also be true if you ran a bit more front bias vs rear. Same difference balance wise. So you got that piece to figure out as well From the vid the car looks like nicely balanced and pretty easy to wheel (vs the ASA car for example, but that's a different package lol!).

Yeah had one of those. They are fun though.
One of the Phoenix boys drove my car and said its way to soft. Need springs or stiffer bars. Watching ASA vid my car does need to be flatter.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by NickyRacerBoy

Yeah had one of those. They are fun though.
One of the Phoenix boys drove my car and said its way to soft. Need springs or stiffer bars. Watching ASA vid my car does need to be flatter.

The proly want to sell ya Penske
Keep in mind our suspension is a pretty capable and well matched package. Stiffer is not always faster, either. NASCAR Cup cars were set up very soft to max mechanical grip for the Glen race. Just an fyi. And that's crew chiefs that are real pros...Stiffer will change weight transition rates (introducing different handling) and may potentially have a big effect on tire wear.
Not saying dont try it, but do it with a real and specific purpose regarding intended handling. When i went with bigger Pfaff bars on my Vette, i oblitarated my outside front tire in a day for no change in pace.
Having said that, given your car has aero now, stiffer might be better. Just keep in mind the shocks are calibrated to springs...so...

[NickyRacerBoy]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

The proly want to sell ya Penske
Keep in mind our suspension is a pretty capable and well matched package. Stiffer is not always faster, either. NASCAR Cup cars were set up very soft to max mechanical grip for the Glen race. Just an fyi. And that's crew chiefs that are real pros...Stiffer will change weight transition rates (introducing different handling) and may potentially have a big effect on tire wear.
Not saying dont try it, but do it with a real and specific purpose regarding intended handling. When i went with bigger Pfaff bars on my Vette, i oblitarated my outside front tire in a day for no change in pace.
Having said that, given your car has aero now, stiffer might be better. Just keep in mind the shocks are calibrated to springs...so...

Yeah gotta try some anti sway bars..isnt a huge investment. Kurt was pretty emphatic that the car was very soft and transferred too much weight

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by NickyRacerBoy

Yeah had one of those. They are fun though.
One of the Phoenix boys drove my car and said its way to soft. Need springs or stiffer bars. Watching ASA vid my car does need to be flatter.

When your RR rolled over the T1 curbing and got kicked clear of the pavement, that threw a lot of load diagonally over onto the LF tire. I think the combination of forward pitch + displacement-caused roll is making your car look 'softer' in roll than it really is.

You were also off your normal line through T1, due to the lateness of an inside pass. I'm guessing that you hurried your steering input up a bit as well. What I'm getting at is to find more reasons about why your car might be too soft; don't recalibrate in an effort to help just a single off-line situation.


Nice lap time.


Norm