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Old 05-21-2018, 04:29 PM   #15
KemoWithDaSS
 
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***Update*** It was the battery all along! Alternator was at 13+ voltage. Battery crankage was only at 385 when it should’ve been at 700+. Starter voltage was also low because the of the battery. If it wasn’t for you guys I would’ve went ahead and bought a new alternator. You guys saved me about 400 bucks. Thanks!
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:55 PM   #16
torqueaddict

 
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Glad it was just the battery.
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Old 05-21-2018, 07:22 PM   #17
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I can't believe they suggested an alternator right off the bat. You can't trust parts store guys, sadly. Some are right on the money but many really don't know much, you always check the battery first, it's too easy and simple to ignore.
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Old 05-21-2018, 09:35 PM   #18
Need4Camaro

 
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just wondering, what is the voltage gauge reading at while the car is running?
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Old 05-21-2018, 10:33 PM   #19
devnull
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I was just about to say go buy an alternator and drive it down to Cumming (I'd put it in for you no sweat). Glad it wasn't that tho!
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Old 05-21-2018, 10:43 PM   #20
dpevans

 
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You might want to invest in a code reader capable of running battery and alternator diagnostics. You can get a decent one for around a hundred bucks and they come in handy if you start flashing codes. I have 6 cars in the family and it's invaluable.
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Old 05-22-2018, 08:27 AM   #21
Nsxmatt
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A lot of testers and readers can't diagnose a modern charging system. If the battery is shorted internally or can't take a charge the alternator will stop charging and any tester will see it as a alternator failing.
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