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#15 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 17 2SS, 8L90, Cam, Heads, E85 Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: US
Posts: 1,213
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I figured I would bring back this thread that already has radiator/cam install info in it instead of start a new one and maybe it will be easier for someone to search for and find.
Anyway so I am at this step now and have been looking at it for a few days in my spare time. I feel like there is a really easy way to get it off and I don't want to start pulling stuff off that I think is in the way since I always do that and end up taking off more than I need to and usually break stuff in the process and half the stuff doesn't go back on right haha. Anyway I can see the radiator sits on what looks like some kind of rubber grommet or bushing, but I can't tell how to get it off there. I know I've got everything else holding both what seems like the radiator and condenser together since they both will move a considerable amount so I know they are not bolted in anywhere else. I can see where there is this bushing thing that the radiator sits on. I see the clips you are talking about, but the problem is there are more of them holding them on below and its really hard to access them. |
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#16 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: SS 6 speed of course Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Hilo, HI
Posts: 4,340
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It gets pried off one pie wedge at a time with small screwdriver, it is "just" a holder for the shroud, in fact I think eveybody throws that shroud away.
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Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.
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#17 |
![]() Drives: 2018 1SS M6 Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 74
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What did you do as far as getting the oil pan off? Just curious since ive heard you need to drop the cradle or lift engine up enough to get it out.
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#18 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: SS 6 speed of course Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Hilo, HI
Posts: 4,340
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I tried to pivot the chain from the front, but it gets pried / pivoted off backwards as you pull the cam forward. The oil pan was a 45 minute job, not like it was the end of the world.
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Forged short block, large duration sub .600 lift Cam Motion cam, 7200 RPM fuel cut, Pray Ported Heads, 3.85 pulley D1X, stage II intercooler, DSX secondary low side, DSX E85 sensor, Lingenfelter big bore 2.0 pump, ported front cats, 60608 Borla, LT4 injectors, ZL1 1LE driveshaft and Katech ported TB, ported MSD intake, BTR valvetrain, ARP studs, ProFlow valves, PS4 tires.
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#19 |
![]() Drives: DZ Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Alaska
Posts: 612
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I pulled my engine while leaving the radiatior, front nose and fenders on. Only took off the hood.
Pulled the trans (M6) from the bottom, pulled the exhaust manifolds, supported the engine from the top (have a valley cover lift plate), pulled off the accessories and a/c pump while the engine was tilted up. |
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#20 |
![]() Drives: 17 hyper blue 2SS M6 Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: NorCal
Posts: 745
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This radiator is really the only bad part of doing the cam swap. you gotta separate the condenser obviously, so all those plastic shrouds have to come apart, the lower piece with the trans cooler, etc. Even the ducts to the two small radiators on the sides need to come out. if you get all that crap out of the way it'll slide out the bottom. I struggled for hours before just ripping and tearing apart all that plastic, after its all out of the way its really not bad. You really do not save any time by trying to leave the shrouds in there and working around them.
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#21 |
![]() Drives: 2018 Camaro ss Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: North Atlanta, Ga.
Posts: 147
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I did it this way as well. I'd like to note though, this works... but i still think pulling engine is easier and in the long run, quicker and less back breaking. But guess it comes down to preference. I'd like to note, I have a manual so no torque converter to worry about. If you have an automatic it be in best interest to pull engine and do TC while your going through the trouble. Just my .02c
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#22 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Hyper Blue 2016 2SS 6M Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: North Ga
Posts: 1,810
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Getting the radiator out isn't a bit of a PITA, it's a huge PITA!
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Baby Blue
2016 Hyper Blue 2SS/6m/MRC/NPP/Silver Rally stripes/ZL1 wheels & brakes/GForce DS and axles/ZLE Cradle Bushings/FE4 ARB front & rear/SEMA Grill/Rotofab dry/95mm TB/Magnuson 2300/Full LT4 fuel system/JMS boost-a-pump/E85 Sensor/Ported CID heads from LME/Cammotion PD cam/Thompson Motorsports forged shortblock/catted Kooks 1 7/8 headers /JRE remote tuned |
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#23 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 17 2SS, 8L90, Cam, Heads, E85 Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: US
Posts: 1,213
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Quote:
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#24 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 17 2SS, 8L90, Cam, Heads, E85 Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: US
Posts: 1,213
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After trying for hours I finally got all the clips free and got the radiator separated from the condenser.
Problem is I can pull the radiator about half way up, but the plastic mounts on the ends won't clear the frame, its almost like its impossible to get it out. I tried forcing it a little and didn't want to anymore after I heard some hissing and what sounded like Freon escaping from the AC lines. So did everyone pull there radiators out from the bottom or top? Did they move the condensor out of the way by moving it to the bottom as well? The bottom mount plastic thing dosent have enough room to clear the sheetmetal frame: I feel really worried now my car is never going to go back together right and I'm going to have another problem and have to tear everything back apart again to get to the cam again, not a good feeling haha |
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#25 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 17 2SS, 8L90, Cam, Heads, E85 Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: US
Posts: 1,213
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I finally jacked the front end up more and pulled it completley out from under the bottom.
However now I have a big mess since the only way I had to block the transmission cooler lines is a vice grip over a rag on the hose portion. Does anyone know a good way to plug the trans cooler lines? I think a rubber cap may seal it over the aluminum side if you can find one tight enough to seal? |
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#26 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,069
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has anybody done this on a lift and dropped everything out the bottom?
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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#27 | |
![]() Drives: 17 hyper blue 2SS M6 Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: NorCal
Posts: 745
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Quote:
It actually went back together fairly easily. I kept the bolts in groups and I don't think I missed anything. The assembly was a lot easier than the disassembly. |
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#28 | |
![]() Drives: 2017 50th Camaro SS Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Maryland
Posts: 525
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Quote:
Yes, we had a lift and took out the radiator when doing the Procharger.
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50th Anniversary Edition |Borla Atak and 60606 mid pipes| Kooks 1 7/8" | ProCharger Stage II |305/45/17 DRs | Circle D 3500 stall | LT4 fueling | Custom made Lowside Aux Pump | Alky Control Meth | DSX E85
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