[Turbo_RORO]

Originally Posted by solobaric

But, just to clarify, the motor doesn't have to be pulled correct? Anyone recommend a shop around St Louis or Cincinnati to drop these in for me?

I was informed that these could be done in the motor but honestly you could probably pull the motor and do a better job at cleaning the motor in the same time.

[bucknut2006]

When Vengeance did mine, they just pulled the motor. I really don't see how this could be done cleanly any other way and the additional labor is minimal.

[laynlo15]

Cool, did you break the stock motor? You haven't even had this one to the track yet. Sorry to hear about your back, good luck on that.

[Joe's_cool_1le]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

Cool, did you break the stock motor? You haven't even had this one to the track yet. Sorry to hear about your back, good luck on that.

Thanks. My engine is running strong but planning my next step. Really don't like be limited to around 700hp to the wheels on these rings.

It is at the shop though. Getting headers, exhaust, smaller pulley, and custom tune.

[DFW1LE]

Isn't a very light cylinder hone recommended? If so, can't imaging doing that without pulling the motor.

[bucknut2006]

Originally Posted by DFW1LE

Isn't a very light cylinder hone recommended? If so, can't imaging doing that without pulling the motor.

Yes, and another reason why pulling it makes sense.

[LesBaer]

There are days that I wish I went forged but I didn't and I've been good for a while now. One thing you can't do I've heard is beat on the car unless it's completely warm once you go forged...not sure if it's true or not? Your tuner should be able to provide you with some guidance if you've already added boost and had the car on the dyno. A good tune is important as well but it's impossible to predict if you want to go from stock to 1000rwhp. I would also coat your headers so you keep the heat in.

I think I made the right decision for me though. I've hardly got time anymore to even follow the forum let alone track the car but I do run it hard. I just don't floor for over 1/4mile. I really don't need to floor it either because it's more car than I can handle anywhere but on a drag strip. Up where I am I haven't seen anything in the past year on the street that's even close. Occasionally, if the stars align and the time is right (like today lol), I'll rip a 50min morning commute in 20min. IATs were in the low-mid 90's after all that too. I think my engine would've gone by now if it were going to go. If it goes, it goes. I'm not going to lose a lot of sleep over it (ok maybe some). It's an opportunity, not a problem

[PinHead]

Originally Posted by Ryne @ CMS

We do recommend a light cylinder hone. This can be performed with the engine in or out of the vehicle. We like to pull the engine to do it but it's not necessary.

Anyone looking to put 800whp+ through their LT1 engine should really think about a piston AND rod combo. We bent a rod in our 6th gen camaro during a half mile event with a stock short block. This is the reason we made this combo, just a piston isn't good enough for big numbers.

Do you guys use a Torque Plate when honing?

[jessrayo]

Originally Posted by Goertz

I did a complete tsp 416 stroker with custom turbo grind overdrive fuel lobe cam. I beam rods and valvetrain to rev to 7500-8000

Only things stock in my longblock anymore is unported heads (kind of a waste of money when turbo, 1 lb of boost to make up the difference is much cheaper than $1500 heads), valves and obviously the sleeves/bare block. Everything is being replaced.

total parts cost was right at 5k

Just dropped off block and heads with all goodies at machine shop and should have it back and buttoning it up next week.

Build cost well I'm being sponsored by the place I work for so that doesn't exist for me but that is just a idea on parts cost....

Hey, I was wondering what you have into this forged block right now? I see you have $5K in parts but what is the labor going to be? Have you got the engine back yet?

I still have not made any decisions on what I'm doing with my 2016 engine. The Texas speed link at the top of this post has good prices on crate motors but the wait time is kind of long. I wish I would have ordered one before mine broke. LME in Houston has done my last 2 ZL1 motors and while they do exceptional work, it is not cheap....and the wait time is really long. I'm a little concerned about the valve-train holding up after reading about a few issues others have had. I must admit, When my cars go out on the race track, I push them as hard as I can. It seems if anything is breakable..... I will break it. I have broken a lot of "unbreakable" parts over the years. ADM has a machine shop they use in Dallas that does good work for similar prices as the competitors. I was just going to have them work on my motor and not go to the extremes. I want a 416 crank go give me more torque when off boost and bring it into boost quicker but like Goertz, I was thinking I don't need a lot of custom machining or radical valve train because with turbos, more raw boost is not a problem and it just forces air through the restrictions.

[PinHead]

Originally Posted by Ryne @ CMS

Yes, we do. Again, this isn't required but recommended to aid in ring seating.

I mentioned it because GM has added it, (circa 2011) as a factory building Spec, and now uses it in the ZL1 LT4 Engine, using Torque Plates during initial assembly.

http://media.gm.com/media/us/en/gm/n...14_camaro.html

I've been using Torque Plates since 1985, (especially with Aluminum motors).

[PinHead]

Originally Posted by jessrayo

I was thinking I don't need a lot of custom machining or radical valve train because with turbos, more raw boost is not a problem and it just forces air through the restrictions.

Not really,

Precision machining during an engine build keeps tolerances consistent, reduces internal friction/wear and tear, improves internal balancing, which in the end leads to producing more HP AND RELIABILITY.

How do you think GM has squeezed 650hp out of a production LT4 and offers a significant Factory Warranty? They improved engine assembly quality and consistency.

Check it out here(listen for the QC tolerances);
https://youtu.be/bLtZNtvc1Aw

[jessrayo]

Originally Posted by PinHead

Not really,

Precision machining during an engine build keeps tolerances consistent, reduces internal friction/wear and tear, improves internal balancing, which in the end leads to producing more HP AND RELIABILITY.

How do you think GM has squeezed 650hp out of a production LT4 and offers a significant Factory Warranty? They improved engine assembly quality and consistency.

Check it out here(listen for the QC tolerances);
https://youtu.be/bLtZNtvc1Aw

Do you really think a lot of machine work on cylinder head ports and combustion chambers will make the engine more reliable. I can understand using higher strength lifters and springs and rocker arms but the machine work to heads that make it flow easier is kind of non issue when your turbos are capable of producing 40 pounds of boost.

[parish8]

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VsmbbuSq9m0

In that video above starting at 8:50 he talks about using a longer stroke in an ls motor. I am wondering if the lt motor has the same length of sleeves and is still a concern.

I really want to just order a 416 Texas speed motor but I wonder if a stock stroke motor would ultimately be stronger.

[parish8]

Originally Posted by jessrayo

Hey, I was wondering what you have into this forged block right now? I see you have $5K in parts but what is the labor going to be? Have you got the engine back yet?

I still have not made any decisions on what I'm doing with my 2016 engine. The Texas speed link at the top of this post has good prices on crate motors but the wait time is kind of long. I wish I would have ordered one before mine broke. LME in Houston has done my last 2 ZL1 motors and while they do exceptional work, it is not cheap....and the wait time is really long. I'm a little concerned about the valve-train holding up after reading about a few issues others have had. I must admit, When my cars go out on the race track, I push them as hard as I can. It seems if anything is breakable..... I will break it. I have broken a lot of "unbreakable" parts over the years. ADM has a machine shop they use in Dallas that does good work for similar prices as the competitors. I was just going to have them work on my motor and not go to the extremes. I want a 416 crank go give me more torque when off boost and bring it into boost quicker but like Goertz, I was thinking I don't need a lot of custom machining or radical valve train because with turbos, more raw boost is not a problem and it just forces air through the restrictions.

Are you keeping the 7163's? I don't think they would be a good match for a 416 at all. http://www.turbos.bwauto.com/afterma...6_wrsin=92044&