Header install - Page 2

Joe's_cool_1le · 06-05-2017, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brianw36

Just finished up with the install. Definitely took my time. I had use of a lift and it was still quite time consuming. Driver side was pretty straightforward. Passenger side was tight and had a very difficult time with the oil tube. I spent most of the time trying to get it out and put it back in. To get out had to remove stock header from the top. Read multiple how tos and they all said to install and tighten headers then reinstall oil tube. Not the case had to uninstall headers and reinstall to get tube back in. I was quoted $700-$1000 to install. If you don't have a lift, a friend to give you a hand and lots of time, then pay to have someone else put them in. Just my 2 cents.

I'm glad to hear you have her back together and thanks for describing your experience on the install. It kind of falls in line with a few others I've heard so far.

Ponyeatr16ss · 06-05-2017, 09:41 AM

Im just trying to persuade guys to do it themselves, so what it takes you a weekend, at least you've still got $$$$ in your bank account for MORE go fast parts. Ill give you that though I am retired military, but while on active duty I did all my work as well. Shoot I even help people I don't know do installs just to save them the money. Just saying. (not trying to pick a fight) I just hate seeing people get hosed when it comes to labor.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe's_cool_1le

I've paid in your book tons of cash. Thankfully I do have disposable income to do such things since my skillset and time do not afford me the option in most cases. I respect that you prefer to work on your vehicles yourself and I'm sure that comes with great satisfaction.

Joe's_cool_1le · 06-05-2017, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ponyeatr16ss

Im just trying to persuade guys to do it themselves, so what it takes you a weekend, at least you've still got $$$$ in your bank account for MORE go fast parts. Ill give you that though I am retired military, but while on active duty I did all my work as well. Shoot I even help people I don't know do installs just to save them the money. Just saying. (not trying to pick a fight) I just hate seeing people get hosed when it comes to labor.

First I'd like to thank you for your service. I appreciate what you are saying and I have and continue to look for insight on how people have installed the Kooks headers. I still have a little time waiting for the Kooks catback to be delivered to make a decision.

Darth Martel · 06-05-2017, 05:34 PM

I have a guide up in the DIY section for a Stainless Works full exhaust with headers. I can't imagine it being much different than the Kooks.

rti35 · 06-06-2017, 05:03 PM

Header installs can be a pain in the ass. I haven't done it on a 6th gen but I've done 2 of them on a 4th gen and unless you have a lift and a friend it's going to be misery. The amount you need to lift the front end up to be able to get the headers out the bottom is significant and can be dangerous if you don't have the right tools/patience/time etc.

Just pay to have it done, unless you have an accessible lift and a mechanically inclined friend or 2.

Ponyeatr16ss · 06-07-2017, 11:23 AM

I've never used a lift for any installs from headers to transmission swaps in any vehicle. I use truck jack stands, my car was up high enough to almost sit straight up under it. No friends to help and I did it all by my lonesome, to include a 12 bolt rear end swap and all. I'll admit the 4th Gen is and has some tight spots but perfectly doable and safe on jack stands. I spent more time making sure everything was safe a stable than installing parts. Truck stands can get you well over 22inches in the air and that's more than enough to do any install.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rti35

Header installs can be a pain in the ass. I haven't done it on a 6th gen but I've done 2 of them on a 4th gen and unless you have a lift and a friend it's going to be misery. The amount you need to lift the front end up to be able to get the headers out the bottom is significant and can be dangerous if you don't have the right tools/patience/time etc.

Just pay to have it done, unless you have an accessible lift and a mechanically inclined friend or 2.

RedDragonSS2.0 · 08-08-2017, 04:43 PM

Hey Guys decided to bring up an older Thread so I don't get yelled at for not using the Search menu lol...

Just ordered my LT from Kooks and want to get it done with a few buddies on the driveway while drinking some beers (Best way to install anything)

Wanted to know if you could share some pointers especially with the passenger side? I did this install on my 2010 and a few others so Ive got experience just wanted to know what I was getting into. Any other threads or write ups you guys can recommend would truly be appreciated..

Thanks
Adrian

Edit:

Found this info for anyone else looking..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbo_RORO

Ok sorry for the delay. I have installed the headers and have been driving with them on my car for a while. As far as the install there were no instruction so I had to figure it out as I went. Which was not hard. I ran into some problems and was waiting to hear back from the company before I wrote my review.

Driver side:

Remove spark plug wires and plugs, factory cat, remove factory manifold bolts. The factory manifold can come out through the top. Super easy.
Install remove the two bolts that hold the I-shaft on, remove I-shaft, put header in from the top down. Put a couple bolts in, put gasket on install the rest of the bolts. reinstall the I-shaft. the driver side can be don't in about 20 minutes.

Problem #1: Due to the shape and diameter of the tubes you will not be able to use the factory Spark plug wire as the factory wire will literally be in contact with the #3,5,7 cylinders tubes.

Problem #2: The factory o2 connectors will not reach each other. The headers do not come with extensions. So you can either buy extensions or you can extend the factory harness.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbo_RORO

Now on to the passenger side.

Remove the factory dipstick, cats, manifold, and all associated brackets. While you're at it remove the starter, and valve cover. I removed the retainer bolt on the coolant reservoir and bungeed it out of the way. With all of those items removed you will have enough clearance to drop the headers in from the top.

Install: Place the manifold in from the top, and bungee it in place. install the starter and shield with the manifold loose (it will allow more room to work). Also be very careful as the connector on the starter can be brittle. With the starter installed you need to weave the dipstick through the header while beginning the alignment process for header a bolt. With the dipstick installed you can install the manifold and gasket. This part is straight forward. With the manifold bolted down I would suggest that you relocate the factory wire harness higher and behind the coolant reservoir. Replace the coolant reservoir and nut. I initially thought that I wouldn't have to remove the starter but because of the diameter of the V-band you will have clearance issues on the install. Replace the valve cover, wiring bracket, and top off the coolant if needed.

Original Thread
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showth...install&page=2

Darth Martel · 08-09-2017, 10:16 AM

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=486200

Dubchitts · 08-09-2017, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darth Martel

I have a guide up in the DIY section for a Stainless Works full exhaust with headers. I can't imagine it being much different than the Kooks.

I used your write up when I did my kooks. Only difference is I took the starter off instead of the motor mount

RedDragonSS2.0 · 08-09-2017, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darth Martel

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=486200

Thank you

TECHTURTLE · 08-09-2017, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RedDragonSS2.0

Hey Guys decided to bring up an older Thread so I don't get yelled at for not using the Search menu lol...

Just ordered my LT from Kooks and want to get it done with a few buddies on the driveway while drinking some beers (Best way to install anything)

Wanted to know if you could share some pointers especially with the passenger side? I did this install on my 2010 and a few others so Ive got experience just wanted to know what I was getting into. Any other threads or write ups you guys can recommend would truly be appreciated..

Thanks
Adrian

Edit:

Found this info for anyone else looking..

Original Thread
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showth...install&page=2

Don't use the Kooks gaskets, they are crap. Get a fresh set of OEM gaskets you'll be much better off.

SSTony · 08-09-2017, 02:39 PM

I wish I can install these myself. I do have a 2 car garage but having 3 knee surgeries in 2 years kind of makes this impossible to do by myself.

Trying to find help and or a garage in NJ that won't rape me to install theses is very hard.

RedDragonSS2.0 · 08-09-2017, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TECHTURTLE

Don't use the Kooks gaskets, they are crap. Get a fresh set of OEM gaskets you'll be much better off.

Thanks ya that's the plan going to order them this week. Since we all know how long Maryland speed takes to ship lol...

Next item is the E85 kit, plan is to buy it all and have it ready to go so I only have to tune it once..

BowtieRocket · 08-09-2017, 07:36 PM

Texas Speed comes with the metal GM gaskets, and the extended wiring and the shorter stearing bolt- for $600 with off-road pipes or $850 for catted connection pipes...just saying lol

06-05-2017, 05:34 PM	#18
Darth Martel Darth Martel Drives: Black 1SS with 20% tinted windows Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bizzaroland Posts: 1,495	I have a guide up in the DIY section for a Stainless Works full exhaust with headers. I can't imagine it being much different than the Kooks. __________________ 2016 Black 1SS w/ MRC, low-gloss black wheels, auto trans. Self-created custom Dark Knight Edition accents. Rotofab CAI with dry filter and sound tube delete, PRAY ported intake manifold and throttle body, Texas Speed cam, Stainless Works headers and exhaust, Skid Mark garage E85 kit, JMS fuel pump voltage booster, Circle D torque converter. Custom E85/mod tune by Jannetty Racing.

08-09-2017, 10:16 AM	#22
Darth Martel Darth Martel Drives: Black 1SS with 20% tinted windows Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bizzaroland Posts: 1,495	http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=486200 __________________ 2016 Black 1SS w/ MRC, low-gloss black wheels, auto trans. Self-created custom Dark Knight Edition accents. Rotofab CAI with dry filter and sound tube delete, PRAY ported intake manifold and throttle body, Texas Speed cam, Stainless Works headers and exhaust, Skid Mark garage E85 kit, JMS fuel pump voltage booster, Circle D torque converter. Custom E85/mod tune by Jannetty Racing.

08-09-2017, 02:39 PM	#26
SSTony Drives: SS Camaro Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Piscataway NJ Posts: 1,782 View My Garage	I wish I can install these myself. I do have a 2 car garage but having 3 knee surgeries in 2 years kind of makes this impossible to do by myself. Trying to find help and or a garage in NJ that won't rape me to install theses is very hard. __________________

08-09-2017, 07:36 PM	#28
BowtieRocket Drives: 2016 Camaro 2SS- M6 Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Albuquerque Posts: 1,133 View My Garage	Texas Speed comes with the metal GM gaskets, and the extended wiring and the shorter stearing bolt- for $600 with off-road pipes or $850 for catted connection pipes...just saying lol __________________ 2016 Camaro 2SS M6- Garage

06-06-2017, 05:03 PM	#19
rti35 Drives: 2016 Corvette Z06 Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: NY Posts: 24	Header installs can be a pain in the ass. I haven't done it on a 6th gen but I've done 2 of them on a 4th gen and unless you have a lift and a friend it's going to be misery. The amount you need to lift the front end up to be able to get the headers out the bottom is significant and can be dangerous if you don't have the right tools/patience/time etc. Just pay to have it done, unless you have an accessible lift and a mechanically inclined friend or 2.

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