[Hooves]

I'm driving a 1SS. I ran through the stock tires in ~8000 miles thanks to track work. I then upgraded wheels to 1LE/ZL1 size and downgraded tires with a set of Nitto NT555G2. Super greasy once they heat up on the track and then they definitely drop WAY off with their road performance. These tires are now done ~15000 miles.

I just had the Mrs. get a set of MPS 4S installed and she's definitely impressed on the road - our old standard tires before the 1SS were MPSS.

I plan on running these for my DD tire and will put either RE71R or NT01 on the 1SS stock rims for the track.

Will update y'all with my thoughts on the MPS 4S once I get some more miles on them!

[Egon]

Originally Posted by Casalino

Thanks for your comment. This is all a learning experience for me so the more info the better. In my head, the lower tread wear rating means gummier tires yeah? if a tire has a higher tread wear, it is going to be "harder" so to speak. to provide a longer life no?

And your right about my friend's dad. This was 5-10 years ago. So maybe his experience with tires and tread wear can be different to what we do today.

His biggest piece of advice to me was this. Before you go out on that track, you better have the blue racing brake fluid. I've read the threads on it so i'm aware of which fluid to use. But he said that is most important. You don't want to approach a turn and have no brakes. It will happen. There goes everything.

He said to enjoy the car and take it on the track as much as you can. It takes years and years and years to get decent at this. Every good driver thinks he will be able to go on a track. But when you're on it, every bit of road experience goes right out the window. It is like starting over again. And even though he took all the lessons he can and practiced as much as he could, he could never beat his brother. When you race a guy that could care less about totaling his car or his own bodily harm, you better back off. You won't catch him. Or you'll end up into the sidewall

Keep in mind that there is no certification that a tire goes through to determine its treadwear rating. They are self certified by the MFG, so if Hoosier wanted to take an A7 and then say it was 200 TW they could. The Bridgestone RE-71R is another example of this, it is likely a sub 200 TW tire but that 200 TW rating means it can be used in SCCA Street classes.

I don't think the ATE Super Blue is available for sale anymore in the US, but he is correct if you are going to do track days and push the brake system hard a brake fluid with a higher boiling point is recommended. (DOT 4 fluid) The factory cooling ducts in your cars will help with this though so I don't think it is as important as it was on cars like my 5th Gen 1LE. It's still probably a good idea regardless if you are planning on tack days, think of it as cheap insurance.

[Idyll]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

Hoosier R7 is a treadwear of 40. That's the typical track day tire.

What size R7's and rims would you recommend on the SS 1LE?

[Zboy136]

I put the Michelin's on my 1LE right before I put her away for winter, because the stock goodyears were toasted after 10k ( All normal driving )

I didnt get a chance to put a ton of miles on the car, but I did notice it rides slightly firmer.

[carguy55]

My ideal setup would be the PS4s for the street and another set of 19" wheels and tires for the track.

[AZ_1LE]

I will be getting another set of OEM tires when mine wear out which should be at around the 9k mile range, and getting a dedicated set of 19" track wheels and tires. The OEM tires are absolutely phenomenal, and are a blast for daily driving.

[zx9rmal]

My OEM S3's at 9,200 miles are about done. Street driven only, but I corner very aggressively, conditions permitting. From everything I've read, I'm all set to go for the Pilot 4S's so I can get better life. BUT, I do not want to give up very much in outright grip when I corner aggressively. Since I do under 10K miles a year, I'm starting to have second thoughts. Maybe I should stay with the S3's. I just don't know what expect from the 4S's vs. the S3's in hard cornering situations.

Anyone run both on their 1LE? Thanks.

[Chris V]

Originally Posted by carguy55

My ideal setup would be the PS4s for the street and another set of 19" wheels and tires for the track.

Just ordered 295/30/20 and 305/30/20 PS4S for One Lap and 305/30/19s for autocross and the off chance One Lap has a rock solid dry warm forecast.

[JK001]

Originally Posted by zx9rmal

My OEM S3's at 9,200 miles are about done. Street driven only, but I corner very aggressively, conditions permitting. From everything I've read, I'm all set to go for the Pilot 4S's so I can get better life. BUT, I do not want to give up very much in outright grip when I corner aggressively. Since I do under 10K miles a year, I'm starting to have second thoughts. Maybe I should stay with the S3's. I just don't know what expect from the 4S's vs. the S3's in hard cornering situations.

Anyone run both on their 1LE? Thanks.

I'm with you

[TJay74]

GM was required to use a tire that had a treadwear rating new 200 in order for the car to call into a certain class in the SCCA racing. If the tire falls under the treadwear rating of 200 it can change the class the car goes into.

Also bear in mind, treadwear ratings are not regulated at all, they manufacture dependent.

[Boost Creep]

Originally Posted by zx9rmal

My OEM S3's at 9,200 miles are about done. Street driven only, but I corner very aggressively, conditions permitting. From everything I've read, I'm all set to go for the Pilot 4S's so I can get better life. BUT, I do not want to give up very much in outright grip when I corner aggressively. Since I do under 10K miles a year, I'm starting to have second thoughts. Maybe I should stay with the S3's. I just don't know what expect from the 4S's vs. the S3's in hard cornering situations.

Anyone run both on their 1LE? Thanks.

The Goodyears have some rebates going on now so they are a little cheaper, maybe you can burn through another set before deciding on the Michelins since the Michelins appear to be about 50% more than the Goodyears.

[TrackClub]

Casalino: in case you didnt "get it" some comments here have clearly been made tongue in cheek...beware Ryephile's super dry sense of humor lol! plus your friend's dad advice - albeit logical - is VERY outdated and doesnt apply to today's tires.

If you never ran a car on a race track before, learn how to drive your car on stock tires. They are fantastic on the track so completely disrgard the tread rating. Not only manufacturers sand bag the rating sometimes to allow them being run in street tire class in some sanctioned competitions (as already stated above), but most importantly they can NOT be compared between manufacturers as there is no single standard that governs tread rating. So one manufacturer's tire rated 200 can be as fast and not last any longer than another manufacturer's tire rated at 100.

Do NOT buy any tires rated at low double digit tread rating to learn how to drive your car on a race track. Firstly they might be much less forgiving and secondly they wont last long at all.

Lastly, regardless of whats printed on a G3 sidewall I'd say they are a track tire first and street tire second. This means if you bought the car primarily to track it then just leave them on. They will last about 6-7 track days plus driving to/from and occasional DD duty.

If you bought your car primarily as a DD then better options exist to increase longevity as stockers wont last you much beyond 7000 miles plus or minus. Because they are soft and "gummy" as you call it

Bottom line: leave it simple and learn how to track your car. Tons of highly experienced track folks run these cars on stock tires. And these tires dont leave much performance wise vs some tires costing twice as much.
Save your money and invest it in on track instruction and seat time. And enjoy your car - it is a blast!

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by seanblurr

I wish an R7 was my typical track day tire

Hehehe

[zx9rmal]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Casalino: in case you didnt "get it" some comments here have clearly been made tongue in cheek...beware Ryephile's super dry sense of humor lol! plus your friend's dad advice - albeit logical - is VERY outdated and doesnt apply to today's tires.

If you never ran a car on a race track before, learn how to drive your car on stock tires. They are fantastic on the track so completely disrgard the tread rating. Not only manufacturers sand bag the rating sometimes to allow them being run in street tire class in some sanctioned competitions (as already stated above), but most importantly they can NOT be compared between manufacturers as there is no single standard that governs tread rating. So one manufacturer's tire rated 200 can be as fast and not last any longer than another manufacturer's tire rated at 100.

Do NOT buy any tires rated at low double digit tread rating to learn how to drive your car on a race track. Firstly they might be much less forgiving and secondly they wont last long at all.

Lastly, regardless of whats printed on a G3 sidewall I'd say they are a track tire first and street tire second. This means if you bought the car primarily to track it then just leave them on. They will last about 6-7 track days plus driving to/from and occasional DD duty.

If you bought your car primarily as a DD then better options exist to increase longevity as stockers wont last you much beyond 7000 miles plus or minus. Because they are soft and "gummy" as you call it

Bottom line: leave it simple and learn how to track your car. Tons of highly experienced track folks run these cars on stock tires. And these tires dont leave much performance wise vs some tires costing twice as much.
Save your money and invest it in on track instruction and seat time. And enjoy your car - it is a blast!

Thanks for that analysis. That being said, mine being a DD, what can I expect from the PS 4S's vs. the G3's in aggressive street cornering.

Trying to get as much comparison info as I can before I make the decision, which needs to be real soon.