[Mr. Wyndham]

Originally Posted by travislambert

I suppose, but isn't the Lansing Grand River assembly plant tooled just for the Cadillac ATS/CTS and Camaro right now?

It seems like these vehicles all have the potential to benefit from a higher quality brake fluid. I understand that GM might assume the majority of the cars won't go to the track... but especially in the cases of the ZL1 and CTS-V it'd be nice if the cars were 100% ready anyway. The cars have serious horsepower, massive brakes, optimized airflow, etc.. why stop short with brake fluid? I'm sure there is something I'm missing, but it certainly doesn't make sense to me at the moment.

I don't have a good answer...It's an interesting thought...and if I remember, I'll have to ask someone at Camaro Fest this year.

But I bleed the brakes anyways, to be sure, so maybe that's a factor....like using generic Dexos oil, or the blue washer fluid...After I get the car home, I put in Mobil 1, and Rain-X.

[Cremaster]

Here is another data point. I took my new 17 Zl1 to Thunderhill sat. I've been tracking and racing for a number of years. I left everything stock (too busy at work before the event). I took it easy the first session getting used to the car. The second session I opened it up and started boiling the fluid after two hard laps. The pedal had increased travel so the rest of the day I braked way early but still drove hard. Awesome car and everything I hoped it would be. I will be changing the brake fluid and try some track specific pads as well before the next event.

Pete

[KaBoom1701]

Originally Posted by Mr. Wyndham

Did you install the remote reservoir?

Yes, I did.

I plan on doing a tick bleeder once I have to replace the clutch.

[travislambert]

Originally Posted by Cremaster

Here is another data point. I took my new 17 Zl1 to Thunderhill sat. I've been tracking and racing for a number of years. I left everything stock (too busy at work before the event). I took it easy the first session getting used to the car. The second session I opened it up and started boiling the fluid after two hard laps. The pedal had increased travel so the rest of the day I braked way early but still drove hard. Awesome car and everything I hoped it would be. I will be changing the brake fluid and try some track specific pads as well before the next event.

Pete

This is exactly the type of feedback I was looking for. Thank you!

[762CAT]

To me (Hi there driver of heavy ass Hellcat) the SRF is worth the price. It has the highest wet and dry boiling points. 58bucks a quart...check. I had brakes boil on me once at Bondurant and not an experience I ever care to repeat. Not sure what brake fluid they used there but it was after two hard days of driving so depending on when they bled it last it could have had a lot of moisture or air in it. Certainly had air after I boiled it! Lol.

Anyway if nobody has recommended it yet get yourself the Motive Power Bleeder and some kind of device to suck the fluid out the reservoir (always forget what those are called). Just suck out the reservoir, hook up the motive with fluid and flush the calipers in the manufactures recommended sequence....super easy.

I flushed completely with SRF the first time used 2 quarts for good measure. Now I bleed before every track day. Otherwise with DOT 4 I'd do it once per year. Just did it again today in fact as I'll be on VIR May 1st.

58bucks sounds expensive but considering the cost of gas, tires, brake pads, track fees and track insurance...it's in the noise. The stuff works amazing.

[KaBoom1701]

Originally Posted by 762CAT

To me (Hi there driver of heavy ass Hellcat) the SRF is worth the price. It has the highest wet and dry boiling points. 58bucks a quart...check. I had brakes boil on me once at Bondurant and not an experience I ever care to repeat. Not sure what brake fluid they used there but it was after two hard days of driving so depending on when they bled it last it could have had a lot of moisture or air in it. Certainly had air after I boiled it! Lol.

Anyway if nobody has recommended it yet get yourself the Motive Power Bleeder and some kind of device to suck the fluid out the reservoir (always forget what those are called). Just suck out the reservoir, hook up the motive with fluid and flush the calipers in the manufactures recommended sequence....super easy.

I flushed completely with SRF the first time used 2 quarts for good measure. Now I bleed before every track day. Otherwise with DOT 4 I'd do it once per year. Just did it again today in fact as I'll be on VIR May 1st.

58bucks sounds expensive but considering the cost of gas, tires, brake pads, track fees and track insurance...it's in the noise. The stuff works amazing.

Good feedback and I second the recommendation on get the Motive Brake Bleeder. That thing works great. I use a turkey baster to suck out the old fluid from the reservoir.

[762CAT]

Here is what I use. Small tubing can really get down in there.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A turkey baster is certainly a MUCH less expensive and viable option...I'm just to dumb and would probably forget come Thanksgiving. Lol. SRF Turkey anybody?

[RicknCheryl]

I planned to drop my 17 ZL1 at the dealer to replace the stock brake fluid with Castrol SRF, but they called today to advise not to do it. The shop foreman says that he's been in 3 different GM service courses that warned against this. They advise putting the racing brake fluid in only for track events, then removing it and replacing with stock fluid after the event. They acknowledge this isn't in the owner's manual, but state that its in a TSB. I've asked for a copy and will share if/when I get it.

Has anyone else heard this? Any insights on why running SRF full-time would be bad for the car?

[Mr. Wyndham]

Originally Posted by RicknCheryl

I planned to drop my 17 ZL1 at the dealer to replace the stock brake fluid with Castrol SRF, but they called today to advise not to do it. The shop foreman says that he's been in 3 different GM service courses that warned against this. They advise putting the racing brake fluid in only for track events, then removing it and replacing with stock fluid after the event. They acknowledge this isn't in the owner's manual, but state that its in a TSB. I've asked for a copy and will share if/when I get it.

Has anyone else heard this? Any insights on why running SRF full-time would be bad for the car?

If you get a TSB please share it. First I've heard, and the performance supplements seem pretty clear...maybe they confused the brake fluid recommendations with the 15W-50 oil recommendations?

[JeromeS13]

Originally Posted by RicknCheryl

I planned to drop my 17 ZL1 at the dealer to replace the stock brake fluid with Castrol SRF, but they called today to advise not to do it. The shop foreman says that he's been in 3 different GM service courses that warned against this. They advise putting the racing brake fluid in only for track events, then removing it and replacing with stock fluid after the event. They acknowledge this isn't in the owner's manual, but state that its in a TSB. I've asked for a copy and will share if/when I get it.

Has anyone else heard this? Any insights on why running SRF full-time would be bad for the car?

That doesn't make any sense. Did he tell you WHY they warned against upgrading?

[travislambert]

I think he must be referring to:

#PIC6162 - Questions Regarding The Use Of High Performance / High Temperature Brake Fluid During Track Use

This is just a general bulletin from December 2015. The models now listed are:

2009 - 2015 Cadillac CTS-V
2014 - 2016 Cadillac CTS Sedan V-Sport, XTS V-Sport
2016 Cadillac CTS-V, ATS-V, XTS V-Sport
2009 - 2016 Chevrolet Corvette
2010 - 2016 Chevrolet Camaro
2014 - 2016 Chevrolet SS

...
"There are several products on the market that are sold as "racing" brake fluid. hey have various dry boiling points that are well above the specs of standard DOT 3 (401°) or DOT 4 (446°) brake fluid.

Important: Keep in mind that any type of DOT 5 brake fluid should not be used in these vehicles as it is not compatible with DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluids or the braking systems that they are used in. Also, it is recommended that this high performance brake fluid should be flushed back out of the system when the vehicle is done on the track and it is being driven on public roads once again."
...

There is no justification given in the bulletin. My guess is this is a generic CYA statement to cover the racing only brake fluids that do not have a "wet" rating.

[TDS]

Originally Posted by 762CAT

To me (Hi there driver of heavy ass Hellcat) the SRF is worth the price. It has the highest wet and dry boiling points. 58bucks a quart...check. I had brakes boil on me once at Bondurant and not an experience I ever care to repeat. Not sure what brake fluid they used there but it was after two hard days of driving so depending on when they bled it last it could have had a lot of moisture or air in it. Certainly had air after I boiled it! Lol.

Anyway if nobody has recommended it yet get yourself the Motive Power Bleeder and some kind of device to suck the fluid out the reservoir (always forget what those are called). Just suck out the reservoir, hook up the motive with fluid and flush the calipers in the manufactures recommended sequence....super easy.

I flushed completely with SRF the first time used 2 quarts for good measure. Now I bleed before every track day. Otherwise with DOT 4 I'd do it once per year. Just did it again today in fact as I'll be on VIR May 1st.

58bucks sounds expensive but considering the cost of gas, tires, brake pads, track fees and track insurance...it's in the noise. The stuff works amazing.

Could you point me in the right direction of what model Motive Power Bleeder to purchase.

[JeromeS13]

Well, RBF600 is DOT 4. So you're good.

[hawk02]

Originally Posted by Mr. Wyndham

I don't have a good answer...It's an interesting thought...and if I remember, I'll have to ask someone at Camaro Fest this year.

But I bleed the brakes anyways, to be sure, so maybe that's a factor....like using generic Dexos oil, or the blue washer fluid...After I get the car home, I put in Mobil 1, and Rain-X.

It's my understanding that even though DOT4 has a higher boiling point than DOT3, it has a much higher affinity to attract moisture and therefore degrades faster than DOT3. Most GM performance car owners wouldn't see the advantages of DOT4 since they don't track their cars. However, they would see the disadvantage of having to change brake fluid more often than every 3 years.